Simple hub question...

How do I remove them?

I have removed the wheel, the MAP hubs and the brake drum so I am left looking at the brake calipers with the hub in front of that with what looks like a huge nut though very shallow securing it in the centre and the splined tip of the half shaft protruding through the middle of that. Do I need a special wrench to undo the large nut to free the hub or is there some other trick?

I need to pull the half shafts out and also service the bearings but am stuck staring at the hub :doh:

Large box spanner available from most landy parts suppliers,or hammer and chisel if ypu dont care or going to replace.A manual is what you need[not the Haynes book of lies]

pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com

The S3 manual is in here - I think the hubs on the 1 and 2 are similar. Bend back the locking tab, undo the locknut, remove locking tab washer and hub nut and off it will pop.

I thought the large nut needed to come off but didn't have anything to remove it with and thought I'd seek advice before I buggered it up. "Box spanner" was helpful, now I can see what I should be using.

Thanks.

As tottot said you can use a chisel and hammer. You might already have little notches on the corners of the nut from previous owners. I did it like that for years until I finally bought the right spanner. They're only a few quid and worth every penny.

yea, 'hub nut spanner' ordered mine with the swivel kit, dont over tighten the first hub nut when putting back together, the bearings need to move freely, the washer and second nut keep things together.

newlad said:

yea, 'hub nut spanner' ordered mine with the swivel kit, dont over tighten the first hub nut when putting back together, the bearings need to move freely, the washer and second nut keep things together.

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Where did you get your swivel kit from newlad? I presume that's what I need to remove the vertical and horizontal play from the wheel when it's jacked up (what it failed it's MOT on)? I imagine my UV joints will need sorting too??

Water247 said:

Where did you get your swivel kit from newlad? I presume that's what I need to remove the vertical and horizontal play from the wheel when it's jacked up (what it failed it's MOT on)? I imagine my UV joints will need sorting too??

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Take a good look at the chromed ball - if it's pitted you should replace it. Keep it if you can 'cos it's the expensive bit. Replace the top bush and pin, the bottom bearing if it's worn, the swivel seal (big round one) and the hub oil seal. Replace the wheel bearings too if they're worn. The driveshaft UJ is unlikely to be worn unless the hub has become filled with water or run completely dry, especially if you don't use 4wd all that often. It's worth ordering some extra shims to get the bush preload right. It's not too bad a job to do and it's all in the manual....

I need to drive about half an hour to get spares (unless anyone can guide me to a good Series spares supplier near Bracknell, that's closer than Autopost in Wimbledon?). So I was hoping to have a list of everything I might need to replace after I get the hub off so I can get it all at the same time as getting the 2 inch spanner so I can remove it and complete the job without having to make another trip. Hopefully what you've provided me with will allow me to do this ...and I need the 2 inch spanner as the hammer and chisel trick didn't budge my hub nut at all

Thanks Oxides, I don't know what I'd do without your help half the time!

Strange- a chisel on the nut normally moves it. Have you fully bent back and hammered flat the tab washer?

Well I don't have a chisel to hand so was making do with a large old screwdriver but it won't budge. The lock washer was bent partially around the lock nut which I have pried back to clear it but it still doesn't budge. Not sure I could hammer the lock washer flat as it sits inside the hub so can't access it beyond just poking it out the way of the lock nut.

Get a loose fitting socket and hammer it over the nut, that will push the washer flat.

Water247 said:

Where did you get your swivel kit from newlad? I presume that's what I need to remove the vertical and horizontal play from the wheel when it's jacked up (what it failed it's MOT on)? I imagine my UV joints will need sorting too??

Click to expand...

not sure really, wasn't expensive though, lrseries.com more than likely, probably available on paddock or famous four.

Well I got the hub spanner and finally got the bastards off. I wasn't doing anything wrong, they were just being very stubborn. Even with the spanner I had to use a very long bar to get enough leverage to get the nuts to budge the first part. Things all look well lubricated in there initially. although there was some dry grit on part of the axle that looked rusty but doesn't seem to have done anything.

My inner bearing is stuck on now so trying to remove that bugger now

So I got everything to and including the rear brake plate off on the OS now. Haven't gone any further as trying to work out where and how to remove the steering track rod so I can remove the swivel housing. Everything has been a complete pig and I am glad to report it wasn't just me being stupid. The 40 year old girl has probably not had these jobs done for 20 years and every bloomin bolt, split pin, castle nut and washer is seized snapped or rounded making every little step of progress roll into days of frustration. On the NS I still have the rear brake plate attached as there are 3 bolts I can't budge for love nor money!! That said, I am still enjoying it more whilst we're in the hottest April since records began than when I was doing similar tasks in the snow in Jan

So as I am elbows deep in old grease and parts I thought instead of just fixing the wheel bearings and scraping it through the MOT I would take the time to look at all my front axle issues (major leaks from hubs and diff, wheel bearings, UJ joint - got quite a bit of play in it, investigate why I don't get 4WD power to the front wheels etc).

So, I don't think I want to completely disassemble the diff if I can avoid it but I need to stop it leaking at least and I'd like to have a look inside just so I know what it looks like if nothing else. Also, my problem of 4WD not engaging may have fixed itself as the previously failed test of one stub axle turning and the other one turning in opposition is now suceeding - good news but I don't understand why it has suddenly started working after a year of not so I'm hoping that perhaps by opening it all up I can maybe see what may have been amiss and stop a reoccurence of the issue once I have painstakingly reassembled everything.

I am finding the Land Rover Manuals and also Parts Catalogue essential.

What grease or other protection do you use for the bolts and bits around the axle when reassembling? I'd love it if I could do something to stop this job being such a sod again the next time I have to address it.

Cheers all! Hope you're enjoying the Bank Holidays and not stuck under a Landy for the entirety!

Andy.

i like to rub a little copper grease onto the threads, find its easier dismantleing the next time round that way,
i just took the rear diff off my series 2a the other day, due to halfshaft broken, nice little job again, surprising the sludge in the bottom of the diff! nice knowing its clean now mind!

Copper grease is good. The balljoint can be a bit of a pig - I use the extractor type with the claw that goes around the balljoint under the steering arm and the bolt that goes onto the end of the balljoint threaded section (where the locknut goes). It's a tight fit but it works. Sometimes you have to put as much tension on the extractor bolt as you dare and then hit it with a hammer. (handy hint - if the balljoints are being replaced you can just hammer them through the steering arms 'cos you don't have to look after the threads) You may well trash the rubber gaiter but if you're keeping the balljoints they probably need replacing anyway.

yea, agree with above, there not expensive really, sometimes just gotta beat the ****e out of them!!! lol, good luck!