should i or should'nt i

ok im after a bit of advice...

iv got the chance of a 52 plate sport with the anniversary body kit that i could be swapping for my 54 plate vectra...

its got lots of stamps in the service book, has about 93k on the clock, he says all the relative work was done (head, water pump etc) at 80k, there is no paper work to prove this work just a stamp in the service book.

he is quite adamant the work was done, the car is very clean inside and out

what do yous think

I dont have to drive it, pay for it, fix it or ask should I or shouldnt I?

Do you want it?

I guarentee you there is a reason he wants to swap. I'd be really REALLY surprised if there was nothing wrong with this car. HOWEVER, if you're willing to spend some time and money correcting some faults then you will have swapped a car that is well, a vectra even when its perfect, for a car which is a bundle of 4x4 joy even with its flaws.

By the time I have finished typing this post, someone will have said you're gay and/or instructed you to burn it.

If the heads been done I guess its a 1.8. With no paper work to show what was actually done when the head went run away.

sparkysbandit said:

ok im after a bit of advice...

iv got the chance of a 52 plate sport with the anniversary body kit that i could be swapping for my 54 plate vectra...

its got lots of stamps in the service book, has about 93k on the clock, he says all the relative work was done (head, water pump etc) at 80k, there is no paper work to prove this work just a stamp in the service book.

he is quite adamant the work was done, the car is very clean inside and out

what do yous think

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If you are looking for a hobby, something a bit different and you are reasnoble with a tool kit, then go for it. This assumes that the Freelander is a good un, very hard to check everything before you decide and lots of folks on here will have opinions but honstly, If you want a car to stomp up and down motorways all day at 80 or 90, I'd stick with the Vectra. Best.

Davidspect said:

If the heads been done I guess its a 1.8. With no paper work to show what was actually done when the head went run away.

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Agreed, unless you can set aside £700 or so "just in case" the head goes again. I'd be reluctant.

You could get enough from the sale of a 54 Vectra to buy a nice 2.0 L series Diesel Freelander which would be bombproof. Not the TD4 as that came later and carries a higher price tag.

cheers for the replies guys,

so im thinking...yous almost say i should keep my vectra?

i want a change as iv got back and knee probs and i thought the (sorted) freelander would be great for me, the vectra has given me 3yrs of cost free motoring and i gather after reading a few bits and bobs on here i might not get that...

anybody know where i could get a sorted one for my vectra?

sparkysbandit said:

cheers for the replies guys,

so im thinking...yous almost say i should keep my vectra?

i want a change as iv got back and knee probs and i thought the (sorted) freelander would be great for me, the vectra has given me 3yrs of cost free motoring and i gather after reading a few bits and bobs on here i might not get that...

anybody know where i could get a sorted one for my vectra?

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It'd be tricky to get a direct swap perhaps, but if you read the Freelander buying guide in my signature then at least you'll know what to shop around for.

But I've done the whole 1.8 with no paperwork thing, I knew wat I was getting into and it still nearly killed me.

WLJayne said:

It'd be tricky to get a direct swap perhaps, but if you read the Freelander buying guide in my signature then at least you'll know what to shop around for.

But I've done the whole 1.8 with no paperwork thing, I knew wat I was getting into and it still nearly killed me.

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the guy (he is a trader, not retail) is willing to do a swap, he wanted some money at first but i managed to knock him down to a straight swap, i just have to pay transfer fee of my private plate.

is there any tell tail signs i should look for, should i be able to tell if the head has been done

sparkysbandit said:

the guy (he is a trader, not retail) is willing to do a swap, he wanted some money at first but i managed to knock him down to a straight swap, i just have to pay transfer fee of my private plate.

is there any tell tail signs i should look for, should i be able to tell if the head has been done

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There are no visible signs that it has been done that I know of, and neither is it a one time thing - mine has failed twice that I know of and possible more. I've now fitted an independent digitally controlled cooling system which should prevent it happening again - and that was no cake walk I can assure you. If you aren't willing to spend serious time and reasonably serious money doing repairs youself then I would avoid the 1.8 like the black death.

They are fantastic engines when they are working properly, very powerful for their weight, not too thirsty and very simple mechanically. But they do require a potential **** load of time and cash commitment to get them where they need to be. You are MUCH better off with a diesel - they are comparitively hard to fook up.

Just had a quick butcher's on Autotrader - L series (the most bombproof engine) start at £1200 ish with reasonably low mileages (80k ish.)

The only things to watch for apart from general condition is the health of the Viscous Coupling Unit and Intermediate Reduction Drive (again, info in my signature) and the tyres. If you replace the VCU you should really do the tyres as well - if you intend on keeping it a while then some decent shoes will mean you can have off road fun in it.

If I were going out shopping for one it'd be an L series, no contest.

reading this forum like all "make" forums are all full of problems, thats what they're here for. Regardless of model, but they will save you thousands on fixing it, parts upgrades and priceless advice. Test drive it, check temp gauge, listen for noises, reverse it and make sure theres no grinding, clunking. Visually check for shafts missing, search mondy 2wd mode. IRD Blanking etc. If your going laning/offroad sport will be lower. Check boot cubby box for water. Get underneath and check rear bushes, rattle the vcu/ird mounts etc. Make sure all electric windows and rear window opens fully without any funny wire/regulater noises. (you'll get used to changing these) Check coolant reservoir etc for oil and boiling h2o. Read these pages and the links in sigs above for more priceless advice. If its a good un, you'll love it in all weathers they are the dogs danglys. If it needs parts doing you'll love doing it. Get a Land Rover, love it and live it.

thanks for all the advice guys.

i really do like the look of it, and it would be used for roads only, im not into off roading, im reasonably handy with a tool kit but i dont know if im up to it on a regular basis

sparkysbandit said:

thanks for all the advice guys.

i really do like the look of it, and it would be used for roads only, im not into off roading, im reasonably handy with a tool kit but i dont know if im up to it on a regular basis

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Can't go far wrong if you follow Cox's advice. You'll at least know whether it's in working condition if you do those checks. DON'T get it if the rear differential has no properhshaft connecting it to the VCU in the middle - that probably means it's fecked.

HGF might happen, but if you check the coolant reguarly you've got a much better chance of preventing it. Coolant loss is the leading cause, so you need to check every other day or so - more if you do lots of miles per day.

At least take it for a test drive and do those checks . You won't regret buying a Freelander, whatever you go for.

trust me they're not all bad. Most owners on here have done some eye watering work on theirs, at home with advice from here and a halfrauds tool kit. Get it, send us pics, polish it (if you really have to!!) and get amongst the lads in here. Owning one is an instant mechanical apprenticeship. You'll love it, Had my td4 for 7 years trouble free do a reasonable extent, all faults were cheap fixes anyway. i.e parts are reasonable, except the ird.

WLJayne said:

Can't go far wrong if you follow Cox's advice.

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Thanks, no one ever said that before!!!

A motor trader will never - NEVER - offer a straight swap unless the deal is stacked in his favour.
Whats a 53 vectra worth to trade? realistically probably a fair bit less than £1000 - £1500 depending on spec, which means he values the freelander a fair bit lower than that, or he is fully aware that it is a dog and just wants rid.

I wouldnt even vaguely consider it - the deal is stacked against you and if you are looking for trouble-free motoring, a low value petrol freelander with unproven history is a poor choice of car.

dave21478 said:

if you are motoring, a freelander is a poor choice of car.

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editted for accuracy

Dont let ye heart rule ye head.

Walk away, i bought a petrol freeby, never again. mine was a v6 and the head still went.

Save up and buy a doozle from somewhere reputable, this clowns on the make, dont touch it.

Diesel is the way to go, but even then they are a potentially expensive vehicle to fix if you have ird or viscous coupling problems . If you dont need a 4wd vehicle dont buy one get a newer 2wd . JMHO