Severe vibration between 50 and 65 mph

Ok so I’m back again lol cooking system sorted now I have a severe vibration between 50 and 65 mph the car was fine until it went into the garage to habe a coolant leak fixed. Ina righthand turn it seems worse. The garage had my hippo on a post lift and I’m wondering if any damage may have been done. I from 800 Miles from Spain to france and over a period the vibration got worse all I know it was not there before it went into the garage .is this going to be an expexnsive fix ??? also for infoonce igoabove 90 mph there is a vibration again like the wheels are out of balance but they are not . Thanks for any Info in advance

First thing to check is wheel balance and alignment

Where was the coolant leak?

Mick Guilbert said:

First thing to check is wheel balance and alignment

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Will do just seems strange that after being in the garage it vibrated as before it went in it was like driving anew car

The coolant leak was the inlet manifold gasket

Just jacked up the car and tried to turn the rear wheel looks like the vcu is seized I hope it has not damaged the ird

Darrenbunn6969 said:

Just jacked up the car and tried to turn the rear wheel looks like the vcu is seized I hope it has not damaged the ird

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You won't easily be able to turn a back wheel - it takes quite a bit of effort even with a perfect VCU.

To see if the VCU is OK or needs replacing, have a read of this...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

I have been under the car there seems to be no play in the bearings on the ird or prop shaft

Could be as simple as a wheel weight knocked off.

You could check the (inner) CVs on the drive shafts, they appear to be a regular for replacement - also the seating of the RH drive shaft into the IRD, it appears that if a CV wears it can cause its support bearing in the IRD to go. This has a possibility of causing severe drama to an IRD - not common though I don't believe. I haven't experience of these things - just from what's gone through the forum.

GrumpyGel said:

You could check the (inner) CVs on the drive shafts, they appear to be a regular for replacement - also the seating of the RH drive shaft into the IRD, it appears that if a CV wears it can cause its support bearing in the IRD to go. This has a possibility of causing severe drama to an IRD - not common though I don't believe. I haven't experience of these things - just from what's gone through the forum.

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I will check them all thanks for the info

Have you checked the simple stuff first like the rear tyres are less worn than the front?

Nodge68 said:

Have you checked the simple stuff first like the rear tyres are less worn than the front?

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Yes the rear tyres are more worn that the fronts I bought the car 5 months ago and had to put two new tyres on the front for the not I knew nothing about the threat matching . However she has driven like a new car until it went into the garage. And the vibration has appeared since I. Priced today when coasting in gear I can hear lick a tick tick sound ????

Darrenbunn6969 said:

Yes the rear tyres are more worn that the fronts I bought the car 5 months ago and had to put two new tyres on the front for the not I knew nothing about the threat matching . However she has driven like a new car until it went into the garage. And the vibration has appeared since I. Priced today when coasting in gear I can hear lick a tick tick sound ????

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If all the tyres are not the same make/model, swap the fronts and rears now, then do a 1 wheel up test and change the IRD oil.

If all the tyres are not the same make/model, take the props off NOW! Buy 2 more tyres exactly the same as the ones you bought for the front and put them on the back. Then put the props back on and do the 1 wheel up test and change the oil in the IRD.

If the 1WUT is over a minute, you'll need a recon VCU, if the oil is greyish, you'll need a recon IRD - may get away with a bearing kit change rather than full recon including gears, but if you have to pay someone to fit the bearings, its likely just as cheap to get a recon unit.

As Nodge says - that's the first step(s) - its the the thing that can result in your ending up at the scrap yard.

Darrenbunn6969 said:

Yes the rear tyres are more worn that the fronts I bought the car 5 months ago and had to put two new tyres on the front for the not I knew nothing about the threat matching . However she has driven like a new car until it went into the garage. And the vibration has appeared since I. Priced today when coasting in gear I can hear lick a tick tick sound ????

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I'd say the cause of the vibration is the tyres. It's essential that the tyres are the same make and type and least worn MUST be on the rear. If this isn't done, the VCU overloads the IRD and and serious damage is done.

Ok

Nodge68 said:

I'd say the cause of the vibration is the tyres. It's essential that the tyres are the same make and type and least worn MUST be on the rear. If this isn't done, the VCU overloads the IRD and and serious damage is done.

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will swap the three around and remove the prop shaft for now and see how it goes

Ok been under the Landy the right hand front drive shaft I can see black grease sprayed onto the plastic timing belt cover and there are a play and the ird end si I assume the drive shaft is the problem when I removed me hand I was covered in grease. Just concerned about the play is that normal when I drive shaft goes tits up

Darrenbunn6969 said:

Ok been under the Landy the right hand front drive shaft I can see black grease sprayed onto the plastic timing belt cover and there are a play and the ird end si I assume the drive shaft is the problem when I removed me hand I was covered in grease. Just concerned about the play is that normal when I drive shaft goes tits up

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Excessive play on the in board CV joint where it enters the IRD is normally caused by the IRD output bearing collapsing.

Nodge68 said:

Excessive play on the in board CV joint where it enters the IRD is normally caused by the IRD output bearing collapsing.

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How easy is it to replace that bearing is there a cover that comes of to accèss the bearing