Serious Soundproofing for a 110

Well, the hearing test confirmed that I'm losing my hearing - and the Tinnitus (ear ringing) is not going to get any better, so either I get a better sound proofing solution for the 110 or it's for sale and I'll have to swap to the HJ60 that I've bought.

Reluctant to do so after all the work & money I've put into converting the 110 from a old ex mod banger to a decent overlander.

So does anybody have some suggestion for a serious sound proofing solution for a 110?

I have already installed a wright offroad sound proofing system, but it doesn't really cover the bulkhead area or the upper foot wells.

As it's an ex mod deep wader the dash is very abnormal, so I'm looking at ripping it all out, using some NoiseKiller paint, and some of their sound proofing material in before converting the dash area into more of a civi spec. I'll also try putting some of their kit inside the engine bay.

Is it the best stuff to use?

Is there anything I can do underneath the floor panels for the box whine? A box blanket is no good as I travel to hot climates and need to allow ventilation around the boxes etc

Any suggestions appreciated - I'm after a serious noise reduction as I have to drive with ear plugs currently as I find noise irritates my sensitive soul ;-)

http://www.soundservice.co.uk/Soundproofing Materials.htm

this may help you. dont know the company but the products look spot on?
get some evostick and away you go.

sounds like you've got the same problem as me, mines from 30 years diving and very loud music. I've just fitted a wright off road system too and it did make a difference but mine was pretty quiet any way as i've spent hours and hours using lots of different materials over the years.
1 pulled all the bulkhead, footwell and transmission tunnel cover stuff off and covered all the bare metal surfaces with that flashihg stuff you get from builders merchants. it's dense flexible and sticky, warm it up for the tricky bits.
2 take the doors apart and stick it to the flat alluminium panels.
3 cut some lead flashing to the same shape as the floor mats an put them under
mr wrights mat.
4 a 3mm chequer plate full bonnet protector with a lead sheet under the fluted center part (don't laugh it makes a big difference}
5 a square meter of 50mm sound proofing (the dense foam stuff with a foil back} is enough to do the underside of the seat box.
6 visit your local scrap yard and find as many bits of sound proofin as you can and stick them everywhere.
7 line the load bay with an old alluminium roadsign and cover it with more of mr wrights matting (the stuff on a roll) if you can get it thick conveyer belting is just as good.
I've done all these things over the years and the only stuff i had to buy was the accoustic mat but they all made a difference. mind you its a friggin nightmare to work on as everythings burried under soundproofing!

Pardon.

Your answer are found here.

http://www.tomaxcars.com/Defender/default.asp

Andrew

Hi all - just a quick addition to soundproofing. I have been doing quite a lot of work on my Def110 / isuzu2.8TD(soon to be a 300TDi).
Re. Soundproofing I believe a I had a breakthrough of various ideas over the last 12 months. This involved some time and money (not too much) but helped a lot:

Bulkhead:
Stuck a whole load of building Flashing tape type material (yes the one used to seal gaps in roofing and general building). Uesd about 1.5 roll (Homebase £30.00)
Added on top a 2nd hand TD5 bulkhead sound proofing system, £45.00 eBay.
Differece: immediate. 5 notches down on my car stereo, pity the exhaust blew after a week and I am back to hearing a tank engine noise, although the difference is noticeable!

Dasboard:
Opened dashboard and covered all surfaces with flashing tape

Seat box
As above, 1 roll, £20.00. less vibrations coming through box trays etc

Roof:
About 6SQM of the following material: a)heavy duty car boot sound proofing sheet 1.6mm self adhesive(Bitumastic - £80), 6SQm of caravan thermal insulation £30 buy one get one free Homebase, the first stuck on metal with heavy duty bonding for humid conditions, the second using carpet heavy duty double sided tape, all then also sealed further by sticky aluminum sealing tape.
Also took off all trims and stuck a layer of flashing tape, also sealed further by aluminum tape.
result is wne travelling nearly no noise from roof

Load area and all floors
Purchased a full kit from Nic Woods of U-PM (The best service ever I must say) of heavy duty rubber carpets (more like actual floor than rubber carpet) and the whole cabin feels a) with engine off, you can listen to classical music and believe you are in a church., b) when traveling at motorway speed you can have a conversation AND listen to music and listen to your mobile's handheld speaker, quite remarkable for a 20 years old Defender!

Engine
Stuck thermal brown bread in gaps + bought the original LR Defender bonnet sound insulation trim for 45.00 at dealership end of stock.

Overall very pleased, now working on finding a way of installing the full Range Rover original Harman kardon sound system - The rest of the car may be falling apart (not) but will certainly do this very very quietly! Also my girlfriend may now actually like driving it (but I won't allow her!)

All the best!

GG

Hey Italia, did the TD5 footwell soundproofing fit OK in your old landy? Been looking at these meself but wernt sure if it'd need butchering to get it in there - mines a 1985 110.

Was it that geezer in Reading you got it from?

Hiya - Yes I'd say 98% fits fine. The only thing the gear tunnel aperture is slightly wider, but i have a Scorpion racing centre cubby box that as it is longer that the standard LR ones, protrudes a bit towards the gears, so the slight gap (aboy 1 inch) between the sound proofing and the gear tunnel can't really be seen. It took me about 45 mins to fit: seats out, sound proofing on, black primer on, wait 15 mins, sound proofing components on (both box and footwell), done. The real sound difference are the 2 x TD5 footwell soundproofing bits - that really made the difference when i started the process.

I am a very basic DIYer, so should be fairly easy to do

BTW if you have any suggestions re. my other thread (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/200-300tdi-conversion-65973-3.html) - I'll be very grateful!

Hope this helps, GG

Ear plugs !

I've heard good things about The Official Dynamat Website they do what i've be told is a very good spray to apply on or before any mats your putting in. i think they may be quite expensive though.

M_O

Ipod with quality headphones!!

turn your cap lock off it looks like YOUR SHOUTING AT US.simple answer is you aint gonna get a landrover to be as quiet as your average family car you can thro all the soundproofing you want at it,sell the defender and buy a car if you want a quiet runaround as you aint gonna get it how you want it,they just aint built that way..i have a 1988 csw with all the carpets removed, alloy checker plate in the rear,all the seat box coverings removed and i can live with it but i use it for what defenders are supposed to be used for ,getting in the sticky mud and wet stuff,any soundproofing would just soak up all the water and mud and wouldnt smell to nice after a while.my mates 2005 td5 is all very nice and flash inside and yes is quieter than mine but i spose it depends how you define noisy..to me mine aint noisy but to others its probably awfull

Hi landy-Ads the soundproofing was bought on eBay for about £40.00, with super service from autocraft4x4_south. In fact they have one on right now:Defender 90 110 Td5 Bulkhead sound deadening lining on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 12-Jan-09 20:52:12 GMT)

my ex mod landy is noisy , i knew it would be before i bought it ( my first landy by the way ) think it`s fantastic ....... does exactly what it said on the tin

How about noise cancelling headphones? A friend swears by them on long haul flights.

Hi,

I was looking at some Second Skin stuff from Car Audio Direct a few months back and asked them how it would cope in the defender, considering it would at times be completely immersed in water and mud. Here's the response:

Hi Steve,

I have spoken to Second Skin Audio USA and they advise the following..

Damplifier Pro is not an absorbent material. It is not able to hold moisture
at all. The butyl rubber is a petroleum product (oil) so water will not
penetrate its surface.

The foil is aluminum so it will not rust like steel will. The most that will
happen is some light zinc oxidation which will discolor the foil from silver
to white. No harm though.

You might want to look in to adding a layer of or Spectrum undercoating on
top of the Damplifier Pro is you are worried about this issue.

Hope that helps!


Regards
Mike

Michael Organ
General Manager

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I haven't got round to buying any yet but I reckon I will try this stuff when I get round to it. If anyone does try this before me, don't forget to let us know if it is any good!

I will go to B and Q and get some flashing to try all it can do is weigh the motor down. Lol Jai

DefenderItalia said:

Ear Plugs? How am I supposed to listen to Beethoven's most recent reconding by Deutsche Grammophon with ear plugs whilst cruising at 80mph on a stretch of the M4 and exchanging views with my fellow passengers?

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If you can cruise at 80mph in a 110 and still hear anything, i want to know what youve done to your engine

mine cruises at that and can here person sat next to me and the cd no problem