Security, can you lock t/b lever

Any one figured out how to lock the transfer box lever in neutral.?

I'm looking at ways of stopping my 90 being pinched, ways to slow the thieves down or deter them

Any good ideas?

Remove some relays - like fuel pump, starter.

X eng do this

I've got one of those (the one in the pic is upside down btw) and it gives me a bit peace of mind but it doesn't seem all that tight. There's still a good bit of movement and that's it adjusted properly

the_wolf said:

I've got one of those (the one in the pic is upside down btw) and it gives me a bit peace of mind but it doesn't seem all that tight. There's still a good bit of movement and that's it adjusted properly

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That's a pic off x eng web site maybe you fitting yours upside down :lol:

To be honest I don't think it any good because if you undo the 17mm nut on the gear stick an remove the gear stick knob you could take it off

What needs to be made is like what was on the old for xr3i,s in the 80/90s where the gear stick was locked in 1st gear that would also stop it being towed away .it had like a Yale front door lock it was similar to a bullet lock fitted to shops

Nope mines is definitely the correct way lol if it was fitted that way you could just drill out the grub screw holding the lock in.

Plus it comes with a security nut to replace the 17mm one on the gear stick so you can't just take it off

v8landyman said:

Remove some relays - like fuel pump, starter.

Click to expand...

Mine dont ave relays

lanny man 90 said:

To be honest I don't think it any good because if you undo the 17mm nut on the gear stick an remove the gear stick knob you could take it off

What needs to be made is like what was on the old for xr3i,s in the 80/90s where the gear stick was locked in 1st gear that would also stop it being towed away .it had like a Yale front door lock it was similar to a bullet lock fitted to shops

Click to expand...

I've got one for the car that slips over the handbrake and locks the gearstick in first, wouldn't fit the landy though.

It could still be towed or winched I spose but it would slow them down or deter them .

I'm going to switch fuel off and battery for starters then try and think of something else, I think Disclock is as good as you are going to get

This is the best pic I could find am sure some of the fabricators on here could make something similar to this

I've even been thinking about if you could fit an x brake an use a motor bike disc lock but then it's down to drilling the disc ?

lanny man 90 said:

This is the best pic I could find am sure some of the fabricators on here could make something similar to this

I've even been thinking about if you could fit an x brake an use a motor bike disc lock but then it's down to drilling the disc ?

Click to expand...

I once bought a car with one of those locks on the gearlever, have to look into doing that

landowner said:

I once bought a car with one of those locks on the gearlever, have to look into doing that

Click to expand...

Let me know if you do I will buy one

Something simple might be best, like holding the two levers apart so the cant be moved back or forward.

That's exactly what the x-eng gear lock does lol

the_wolf said:

That's exactly what the x-eng gear lock does lol

Click to expand...

I meant above the tunnel, just a rod or bar with brackets welded to the sticks and a padlock, I'll have a go at it soon

Not paying attention as usual dooh!!

That X-Eng 'gear lock' piccy is still used on their website and fitting instruction sheets but my R380 version is fitted as the picture shows BUT it has the lock grub screw at the bottom, not the top.

Guessing feedback from the early batches was as the_wolf commented and so later batches had this corrected?????

I bought mine at Christmas :s so its definitely not an early one

Aha...yours looks like the LT77 gearbox version, which I guess must always have locked that way (as in lock barrel on left). Maybe the issue was just on the early batch or prototype of the R380 variant?

Anyhow..... as long as that grub screw isn't easily accessible then it's another thing to slow them down.

Using shear bolts, bolt some chain to the seat rail/ seat box and then weld 1 chain link to the back of the handbrake, you can then padlock the handbrake on.

Fit a valve on a solenoid that keeps the brakes locked on when the valve is shut.

Fit a kiltech, stops the ignition barrel being snapped off and the steering lock being broken off.

Do the same as the brakes with a solenoid and valve but on the fuel line.

Tracker.

Fit a coded magnetic immobiliser, similar to the on a jcb telehandler


Just a few ideas

On a TD5 or later, at least, remove some relays and replace with identical ones with the innards disabled.