Security, can you lock t/b lever

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TD5power said:
Using shear bolts, bolt some chain to the seat rail/ seat box and then weld 1 chain link to the back of the handbrake, you can then padlock the handbrake on.

Fit a valve on a solenoid that keeps the brakes locked on when the valve is shut.

Fit a kiltech, stops the ignition barrel being snapped off and the steering lock being broken off.

Do the same as the brakes with a solenoid and valve but on the fuel line.

Tracker.

Fit a coded magnetic immobiliser, similar to the on a jcb telehandler


Just a few ideas
Click to expand...


Like the solenoid in the fuel line, was thinking of that, I have an lpg shut off solenoid somewhere that might fit.

Have thought of locking brakes but they only have to open a bleed screw and away they go.

A cut off switch on the battery is a good idea and lock the lid on the battery cover.

Working on a device to lock gearlevers apart so locking in first so it's difficult to push away.

All these will only slow them down but may make them decide to go on to the next one instead:rolleyes:
 
Also xeng do a nice pedal lock system

Lock a bar through the front wheels

On TD5 cut the loom back that it behind the passenger head light

Anyone want some more security ideas?
 
landowner said:
Like the solenoid in the fuel line, was thinking of that, I have an lpg shut off solenoid somewhere that might fit.

Have thought of locking brakes but they only have to open a bleed screw and away they go.

A cut off switch on the battery is a good idea and lock the lid on the battery cover.

Working on a device to lock gearlevers apart so locking in first so it's difficult to push away.

All these will only slow them down but may make them decide to go on to the next one instead:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

If you couple the hand brake worth he solenoid on the brake lines they would be stupid to tow it as there would be no footbrake and the handbrake is locked on
 
Will have a look at that

Think mine may be low risk having a 2.5 n/a clonker in it and nothing special bolted on. Just a good honest land rover at the moment:)​
 
You don't want it locked in neutral. The X-Eng lock puts it into Hi range 5th. Combined with a good pedal lock plate, the landy is harder to drag and the engine un-startable in that state.

The security nuts prevent the gear or transfer sticks being removed unless you go to the trouble of hacksawing both.

I'm sure a pro can get through it all, but the set up is better than a kick in the tits.
 
I thought about the valve for the brake linesa while back, but when I did some research I found that it was an mot failiure or something along those lines due to fact that your tampering with the BRAKES! A shut off valve on the clutch pipe was ok though I think.
 
danny dorito said:
I thought about the valve for the brake linesa while back, but when I did some research I found that it was an mot failiure or something along those lines due to fact that your tampering with the BRAKES! A shut off valve on the clutch pipe was ok though I think.
Click to expand...

That's what I heard, the company that does the valves had an advert in LRM a few months ago
 
I've been thinking of a hand brake lock.

Length of stainless 316 chain bolted (then nuts welded)to the bulkhead behind the seat and travelling down the centre of the seats.

Then a stainless bracket that locks in to and around the hand brake and covers the release button.

Joined by a stainless pad lock.

Because its chain it would take some sawing because of its movement.
Just an idea.

What is the opinion from the knowledgeable ones?

Worth a try or waste of effort?
 
One thing I never see mentioned on here are wheel clamps.

Are they too easy to get off? We still use them on horse trailers
 
lanny man 90 said:
To be honest I don't think it any good because if you undo the 17mm nut on the gear stick an remove the gear stick knob you could take it off

What needs to be made is like what was on the old for xr3i,s in the 80/90s where the gear stick was locked in 1st gear that would also stop it being towed away .it had like a Yale front door lock it was similar to a bullet lock fitted to shops
Click to expand...
I had a 900 SAAB back in 80's - that one had the ignition key under the handbrake and the gear lever had to be in reverse in order to get the key out. That way the car was locked in reverse and the handbrake lever was in the way of the key hole - so you couldn't drive a screwdriver or something into the lock.
I thought it was a bloody good system:D
 
Just a thought on these handbrake locks.
What if u release the handbrake from the drum?
I think that is how they got mine away.
Cabin doors had two sets of locks. Chubb security dead bolts. Doors cannot be opened. (Unless u take door hinges off)
The load guard was strongest i had seen on the market. Window guards etc.
Rear door was always weakest point of entry.
Unless they used bolt cutters thru the load guard to get to the cab - they must have released handbrake frm underneath.

Just a thought.
 
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