Rustproofing

Hi. No doubt this has all been covered in depth before but can any Forum members recommend a reliable source for having my 2012 Defender 90 rustproofed.
Also which is judged more effective Dinitrol or Waxoil ?
I am in the New Forrest area of Hampshire.
Cheers.

Hi there you are better off waiting until the weather gets warmer and less damp before attempting rust proofing... Although for now you could purchase some duck oil and maybe mix it with a little diesel and spray it everywhere underneath (except your exhaust and rubber components) to displace water

You are right and it has been well covered. However, I have searched and found no definitive answer, only lots of opinions.
Those who have done it swear that the only way to ensure it is done correctly is to do it yourself and there is at least a couple of decent Youtube video showing how. However, ideally you need access to somewhere where it can dry really thoroughly between treatments = really big garage, preferably with heating, and a 2 or 4 post lift to get proper access. There are guys who will do this on their drive and fair play to them, but that would be a painful process I would be willing to pay to avoid.
There are those that swear by Dinitrol and those who use waxoil, there are those who dilute waxoil to give better penetration inside the chassis and those who don't.
Before n After use a different product which the owner makes huge claims for and which should come with a decent guarantee. https://before-n-after.co.uk/ However, he is pricey and seems to do the whole process in a day, so I would want to see his drying facilities as it needs to be completely dry after pressure washing. He will not give that guarantee if your LR had rust beforehand, whereas dinitrol treatments stabilise any remaining rust (within reason) and do come with a guarantee. Some members have also had an issue with the owner personally, but that should not affect the quality of the service he provides. Flatdog seem to do a decent dinitrol service done over a few days at a sensible price; they will do free pre-assessments and I've not heard any bad things about them. Once the weather warms up I will be taking my D2 to one or the other. Maybe my son will take his D90 to the other one so we can compare quality and experience.

Blondrover said:

Also which is judged more effective Dinitrol or Waxoil ?

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IME, There are two rust treatment product brands which are worth using - Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber - both are professional products which are full of goodness to make them work properly. Unless you want serious lung disease you need a proper respirator type mask when using them. Waxoyl used to be good 15 years ago, now, also IME it is a namby pamby safe product for the masses. ( personal opinion ) I won't use waxoyl again - YMMV.

IMHO, before after appear to have a strange business model, and it's worth a search on here to discover his attitude to criticism.

IMO something like krown that's like spraying everything in oil minus rotting all the rubbers and minimal prep or a full treatment from someone like buzzweld so you know it's been done properly. Expensive though!

You won't know if someone's done it properly until it's too late and it's rotten

Does Buzzweld not prevent you undoing bolts and fasteners though?

Here in Sweden we use Linseed oil which is amazingly good and easy to apply, just make sure it's dry and clean first, then it's just to spray it on. It eats the rust and has the benefit to give off a nice smell .

As above. Get reading on bilt hamber site and you won't go far wrong. Hydrate 80, dynax, electrox, epoxy mastik the list goes on. Whatever you do once the outer is done fill the lot with dynax or dinitrol to stop it eating itself from inside out.

Lots of opinions as mentioned but if it were my I'd be a zinc rich stabilising primer and epoxy mastic or corroless on top followed by wax.

Its a **** Job to do, but don't pay someone to do it, its very easy for them to do it badly without you knowing. Only way its worth paying is if you can actually be there and inspect each stage of the process, thing is they don't like you doing that! (cant think why)

This is why i won't use black thick tar like undercoatings

lekfr97 said:

Here in Sweden we use Linseed oil which is amazingly good and easy to apply, just make sure it's dry and clean first, then it's just to spray it on. It eats the rust and has the benefit to give off a nice smell .

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That's a new slant on the process, never heard of it before but it makes sense, how does the cost compare with established products ?

norseman said:

That's a new slant on the process, never heard of it before but it makes sense, how does the cost compare with established products ?

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Very cheap, a can (1 litre) cost about 5-10 euros, and you need 3-4 cans maybe. There are professionals doing it in Sweden, but it's not that hard to do yourself. I do it once a year, make sure it's clean and dry so best in summer. And then spray everywhere except on brakes. Most important to get into chassis of course. Linseed oil hardens with time, but doesn't give any cover with rust underneath it, and is very environment friendly. And as I said, smells terrific! Not sure if it's available in UK, but here is a translated link for the stuff I use: https://www.biltema.se/en-se/car-ca...-inhibitor-agent-linseed-oil-based-2000021462
/C

No such thing as rust proofing or Blackpool tower would never have to be painted again...................

Just sayin like

Linseed oils been discussed on here quite a bit. Low flashpoint though so be careful how you get rid of your oily rags!

Chainsaw bar and chain oil, mixed with a few % diesel or kerosene to thin it. This oil sticks well and keeps the salt laden water off the metal. I've used this stuff for a few years, as a cheap and easy (although messy) way to reduce vehicle corrosion. It dries over time, to leave a paint like surface, which resists the salt well. It needs re-application every few years and mustn't be applied over salty or wet metal. Any flaking under-body sealant or flaking rust needs to be removed first too.

I looking to rust proof my first land rover that purchased in 2007. I've been looking at Waxoyl and Dinitrol and interested in their 4941 coating that appears the most popular solution. However I've noticed they sell an underbody anti stone chip coating called Protect Super 447 is this better for off-road 4x4 vehicles? https://www.tiltrak.com/product/dinitrol-447-protect-super-black-stone-chip-paint/ I 've recently retired to a village near Snowdonia and some of the roads have rough surfaces with slight flooding a common occurrence in places during the winter months