Disco 2 Replacement Coolant hoses etc TD5

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

goofy2000

Member
Posts
49
Location
Essex
Morning, looking to replace coolant and inter-cooler Hoses is it best to go Silicone or just stick to original Rubber ones?
 
My D2 is now nearly 18yr old, 103k on the clock and still on the original hoses. I check them when I remember or get the time and they are fine. If they need replaced, I don't think I would go the expense of Silicon.
 
My D2 is now nearly 18yr old, 103k on the clock and still on the original hoses. I check them when I remember or get the time and they are fine. If they need replaced, I don't think I would go the expense of Silicon.
Same here, not so many miles but all the hoses on my 21 year old D1 are still original and look nearly as new, why shouldn’t they be.
 
I had silicone on my d2, could never get the I/C to intake hose 100%, forever nipping it up.

I'd use original spec rubber next time.
 
I have silicone throughout and am now happy. The problem as 1988smithy has said is getting the hose from the intercooler to the intake to stay in place and not leak air. In my case I spoke to Roose Motorsports who made the hoses on my D2, and for a reasonable amount they made me a much longer hose. No problems since.
If you go down that route and have had your EGR removed, I would ask for a custom I/C to intake hose made at least 3 cm longer than normal. Also where you can use Mikalor clamps rather than jubilee clips.

Photo is the intake with the longer hose. Not coming off now.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190117_131624.jpg
    IMG_20190117_131624.jpg
    158.2 KB · Views: 169
Last edited:
I changed my turbo hoses to silicone ones about 2 months ago, not much experience yet, but during first ride the hose slip off as the original hose clamp is not the best for silicones. Since I use more strong special clamps (20mm wide, with stronger bolt).
 
My D2 is now nearly 18yr old, 103k on the clock
Mine was about 15 years ole and around 160K miles on the clock when i replaced the hoses with silicone after one snapped and lost coolant then on removal it was clearely visible that the others were well ''tenderised'' too ... we'll speak again after another 50K miles if you will still be on the original hoses...;)
I don't think I would go the expense of Silicon.
So would you rather go for the expense of genuine LR rubber and pay more? ... IMO with the proper clips silicone is very good and the only reliable rubber hoses are genuine LR, if you intend to use cheap aftermarket rubber hoses i strongly discourage you to do that... i'm speaking about coolant hoses now
 
Last edited:
Mine was about 15 years ole and around 160K miles on the clock when i replaced the hoses with silicone after one snapped and lost coolant then on removal it was clearely visible that the others were well ''tenderised'' too ... we'll speak again after another 50K miles if you will still be on the original hoses...;)
So would you rather go for the expense of genuine LR rubber and pay more? ... IMO with the proper clips silicone is very good and the only reliable rubber hoses are genuine LR, if you intend to use cheap aftermarket rubber hoses i strongly discourage you to do that... i'm speaking about coolant hoses now
Aftermarket hoses are fine. If the coolant system is working ok (i.e. head gasket not blown) they do the job just as well.
 
Aftermarket hoses are fine. If the coolant system is working ok (i.e. head gasket not blown) they do the job just as well.
IMO the head gasket will blow due to low quality hoses when they let you without coolant not the other way around... i'd not put cheap rubber on mine whatsoever
 
Thank you all for the advice, if going for Rubber I would only use genuine L/R parts as I have done so far on all jobs Expensive I know!!
Great pictures very helpful
The reason for the change of hoses is I have been given a brand new water pump Genuine L/R (Very Lucky)
Mine has 116k so I thought I would set myself a new weekend project and at the same time change the hoses.
 
Last edited:
If you are going silicone take the time to compare manufacturers as not all are created equal. In particular, check for a lifetime guarantee, compare the number of layers and the ability to produce specialist hoses with differing liners for different uses - high temp for turbo output, flurocarbon/flurosilicone for breathers, EGR hoses, anti-acid liners if you plan on using OAT or HOAT coolant etc. Rather than buy the cheapest kit of EBay I would speak to a UK manufacturer, ask them to quote for what you need.
 
If you are going silicone take the time to compare manufacturers as not all are created equal. In particular, check for a lifetime guarantee, compare the number of layers and the ability to produce specialist hoses with differing liners for different uses - high temp for turbo output, flurocarbon/flurosilicone for breathers, EGR hoses, anti-acid liners if you plan on using OAT or HOAT coolant etc. Rather than buy the cheapest kit of EBay I would speak to a UK manufacturer, ask them to quote for what you need.
Thank you (Si Click) the Roose Motorsports ones look good.
 
IMO the head gasket will blow due to low quality hoses when they let you without coolant not the other way around... i'd not put cheap rubber on mine whatsoever
I said "aftermarket", not "cheap". Decent quality hoses shouldn't have any problems if the HG is fine. In my experience, blown hoses are a symptom of HG failure not a cause. Mind you, having had 2 HG failures now, (shifted head on 10p engines) I'm constantly checking hoses and coolant levels. In fact, if I ever bought another 10p Td5, i would factor in the price of having the head gasket done asap if it hadn't been done previously.
 
Decent quality hoses shouldn't have any problems if the HG is fine. In my experience, blown hoses are a symptom of HG failure not a cause. Mind you, having had 2 HG failures now, (

So i'm wondering what kind of specialist are you to decide which is "decent" other than genuine LR? ...as based on the bolded final part of your statment you should think twice why????:confused:.... IMO it's not in your favour to give advices for others what to do after two HG failures unless you can explain exactly why did they happen other than going cheap on replacement parts or poor maintainance,.. my engine is 10P from 2000 at aroud 200K miles and i've never had a HG failure but i respect my vehicle and i dont want to save money on it cos it's part of my familly if you see what i mean... :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top