repair kit for freelander window regulators

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TD4&ABIT

TD4&ABIT

New Member
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:) :) Hi you lucky freelander owners, I have found a repair kit for all the Freelander electric window regulators on ebay follow this link eBay UK Shop - e-crofting: Car Auto, Garden, Adhesive if your wire has snapped don't buy a new regulator try this repair kit, £18.95 for the front/tailgate and £16.95 for the passenger doors(4 door)
it must be worth a try.:) :eek:
 
Tried it, not an easy job plus the correct ends were not included, bought a new regulator in the end.
 
Has any one fitted this kit with success.:confused:

I have emailed the seller on ebay and he said there is about 4% of Freelanders that have different stop ends, if you find you have this problem he will send the correct ends foc.
I have checked his feedback and found loads of Freelander kits have been sold with positive feedback! Has any one had success with this kit. I have ordered both kits as I don't want to spend hundreds of pounds on replacement window regulators.
I fitted a new o/s/r door window regulator about two weeks ago at a cost of over £70, the old regulator wire was bent and twisted and the top plastic wire guide was broken, the motor is OK, I might try and repair it with the kit, if any one knows where you can get the plastic wire guides from that would be helpful.

Please reply with your thoughts good or bad.
 
If you search the archives there is quite a bit about this. I used bicycle brake cables and made my own ends for a total cost of £10. You have to be careful with the winding of the cable onto the spiral plastic drum and make sure you note what bits of cable ends go where. Taking photos is a good idea. It is better to repair than replace a perfectly good motor unit.
Allan
 
I am in the process of trying out the window regulator repair kits, I am in need of any faulty or old regulators that you might have laying about, in return I will write up a full "HOW TO DO" on fitting replacement wires correctly.

Please help me help you
 
ianda12 said:
but you do need to be able to solder the origonal end onto the new stainless cable.
Click to expand...

Not neccessarily. I made up the ends from brazing a lump on the cable end. Even if you have to get someone to do the ends for you it is still cheaper than a new complete unit.
I'm all for repair not renew.
Allan
 
Is there one of these for a sunroof? my has broken :mad: I can hear the motor working so I'm guessing it's a snapped cable:confused: I dont want to take it apart just yet as I'm worried that if I do I wont be able to make it water tight again.
 
:eek: Sorry if I did not make myself clear, I am not offering to repair your faulty window regulators for you, I am trying to make a HOW TO repair your own regulators, in order to do this I need old/faulty regulators with or without all the bits, so I can try different methods and different materials and find what is the most cost effective and reliable.
So if you have any bits of any Freelander (or as some members call them gaylander) window regulators could you let me have them?
 
TD4&ABIT said:
Sorry if I did not make myself clear, I am not offering to repair your faulty window regulators for you, I am trying to make a profit from your naevity, in order to do this I need old/faulty regulators with or without all the bits, so I can repair them and sell them on ebay at a profit. So if you have any bits of any Freelander (or as some members call them gaylander) window regulators could you let me have them so that I can repair them and sell them on
Click to expand...

Cynical? Moi ? Surely not.....
 
:mad: you might work this way, But I don't.
Is this the sought of treatment that you dish out to a member that is trying to help other members, I think your comments stink like the oil in your sump.
Why don't you get a job with LR customer service, you might do well !!!
 
Optimus Prime said:
and what will you do with all the "repaired" regulators once you have seen and worked out how to repair every variant ?
Click to expand...

What would you do with them?

It takes all types, those who try and help and those with a chip on there shoulder that are cynical and think the worst.

I thought I was helping other members that faced the same problems as I did, I was not trying to rip any one off, all I wanted to do is save any member the cost of a new regulator with a "How to" repair document and thats all. I possibly would have succeeded with the help and support of other members and if it was successful and I finished up with one or two regulators that worked so what.

Any way I have learned my lesson on Landyzone "be careful not to ask for old broken bits" even if its for the benefit of all members, if you do you must be a rip off merchant.
 
Please calm down TD4.
Here's one I wrote earlier and like others have said this is hardly a new problem.
"I too have replaced the broken and damaged cables from the rear window mechanism with pedal cycle brake cables. I used the nipple that came with the cable filed down to suit at one end and created a nipple from brazing metal at the other end. Normal nipples are too big for the locations.The cables I needed to replace were 1225mm and 915mm between nipples. There are two cables which usually need replacing, the one that has broken and the one that will have wound itself round the winding drum and creased itself beyond use. This costs around £10 as opposed to the £200 for whole mechanism from Land Rover. One of the cables has a tensioning device which needs to be compressed when you reassemble. It is quite straightforward when you come to do the job, just a little time consuming what with taking the glass out etc. I have attached some photos and would be happy to try and explain the job in more detail if required."
Regards
Allan
 

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AllanI said:
Please calm down TD4.
Here's one I wrote earlier and like others have said this is hardly a new problem.
"I too have replaced the broken and damaged cables from the rear window mechanism with pedal cycle brake cables. I used the nipple that came with the cable filed down to suit at one end and created a nipple from brazing metal at the other end. Normal nipples are too big for the locations.The cables I needed to replace were 1225mm and 915mm between nipples. There are two cables which usually need replacing, the one that has broken and the one that will have wound itself round the winding drum and creased itself beyond use. This costs around £10 as opposed to the £200 for whole mechanism from Land Rover. One of the cables has a tensioning device which needs to be compressed when you reassemble. It is quite straightforward when you come to do the job, just a little time consuming what with taking the glass out etc. I have attached some photos and would be happy to try and explain the job in more detail if required."
Regards
Allan
Click to expand...

Thanks AllanI, I am calm, I am calm, keep saying it.

I know this problem is not a new one, I will repair my next regulator by replacing the wire using the methods that you and N.I. have kindly posted. Thank you for the photos and your time.:)
 
TD4&ABIT said:
What would you do with them?

It takes all types, those who try and help and those with a chip on there shoulder that are cynical and think the worst.

I thought I was helping other members that faced the same problems as I did, I was not trying to rip any one off, all I wanted to do is save any member the cost of a new regulator with a "How to" repair document and thats all. I possibly would have succeeded with the help and support of other members and if it was successful and I finished up with one or two regulators that worked so what.

Any way I have learned my lesson on Landyzone "be careful not to ask for old broken bits" even if its for the benefit of all members, if you do you must be a rip off merchant.
Click to expand...

In which case, I apologise wholeheartedly and publicly for my comments which may have been ill thought out and possibly offensive. I shall look forward to seeing a link to the "how to repair" document, and offer you any assistance I can in producing said document.
 
which bit, N.I?

It is only AlanI's post that contributes much. Or have I missed the point?

TD4&abit does not seem to have followed up on this.
 
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