Removing Injectors, Few Questions

Ok so ive been doing my homework trying to find out how to remove the injectors on my 2002 defender. Heres what i know, ive to disconnect the fuel pipes, remove the injector clamps, disconnect the electrical connections and pull out the injectors.

What im wondering is, if i havent got the special land rover tool, is it possible to use a crowbar or the likes, and if so, where do i pull from precisely??

lastly, looking at where the adjuster screws meet the injector, when i unbolt the injector rocker shaft i assume these are not connected in any way and if i dont touch them i dont have to adjust them? im replacing washers and orings with original landrover parts.

if ye could answer those two questions it would be great, ive uploaded a picture if anyone wants to explain where i should be pulling from.

thanks.

p.s. if anyone has any tips, please let me know

you need to readjust the rockers when they go back in, before you undo the rocker shaft bolts, undo all the adjuster screws to release the pressure on the rocker shaft and undo the bolts evenly.

I changed the washers on my td5 today and i made a slide hammer which gripped on both sides of the injector and they came out with a couple of taps. Had lots of crap on the end of the injector which needed to be cleaned off before changing the washers.

The pic shows how i made the slide hammer from some spare bits of steel. I dont have the measurements handy but if you make the side parts and then you can measure it against the body of the injectors to get the correct width.

To refit make sure you have removed all traces of carbon/oil and crap from everything then when the rocker shaft has been fitted back you need to setup the injector plungers:

Rotate engine clockwise until No. 1 injector lobe is at full lift.
Rotate rocker adjusting screw clockwise until the injector plunger is felt to bottom out.
Rotate rocker adjusting screw anti-clockwise 1 complete turn to give the plunger the required bump clearance and tighten rocker adjusting screw locknut to 16 Nm (12 lbf.ft) .
Carry out above procedure for the remaining 4 rockers.
After completion of rocker adjustment, slowly rotate engine clockwise 2 complete turns by hand to ensure that no injectors are bottoming out on their plungers.

If you cant make the slide hammer, you can prise them out with a small " heel bar ", or as I did, take a pair of pump plier apart and use that, by levering off the face in the head where the injector retaining bolt goes against the lip on the injector body.

You dont need to go mad to get them out.

Try to be " clinically " clean when putting back together, and do not retighten the rocker bolts without a torque wrench !. ( strip one of those, and your in a load of trouble ).

Del.

i made a tool to get them out by cutting a 4" paint roller down just after the bend near the foam head and grinding a angle on the cut end, it then gives you a small 90' pry bar

@bri99: Thanks for the info, really cleared up the problem with resetting the injectors and ill do my best to be clinical

@johnlad and 50 pence:

looks like a much easier way of getting them out than welding up a slide hammer ill try those ways first

thanks for the help lads, now all i need is to find a torque wrench i can borrow again

If you let the engine stand for a few hours you dont need to disconnect the fuel lines as any fuel pressure will have bled away. One less place to get dirt in the fuel system.

Shifty1962 said:

If you let the engine stand for a few hours you dont need to disconnect the fuel lines as any fuel pressure will have bled away. One less place to get dirt in the fuel system.

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Err, what !!!!!. ( or Oops ).

I took mine out within half an hour !. Fortunately I had no " squirting " or popped O rings.

I suppose you cant have the injectors out to soon, as they,ll be too bloody hot to touch !.

Del.

ok, before i start her up, when i replaced the rocker shaft i turned it so that the plunger/rocker arm was at its highest point on the injector side, by looking at the cam it moves on it stays at its lowest point of travel for about a third of its rotation so i just rolled it round till it looked like it was in the centre of this poin, is that ok???
anyway, i proceded then to tighten the adjuster screw and back it off 360degrees and tighten the fixing screw, when all that was done i turned it over a few times to see that it was clear and it was,

so i put the rest of the **** back where it belonged.

have i done this all right??

-Defender110- said:

ok, before i start her up, when i replaced the rocker shaft i turned it so that the plunger/rocker arm was at its highest point on the injector side, by looking at the cam it moves on it stays at its lowest point of travel for about a third of its rotation so i just rolled it round till it looked like it was in the centre of this poin, is that ok???
anyway, i proceded then to tighten the adjuster screw and back it off 360degrees and tighten the fixing screw, when all that was done i turned it over a few times to see that it was clear and it was,

so i put the rest of the **** back where it belonged.

have i done this all right??

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You need the cam on the highest point when setting up the injectors.

Did you change the rocker cover gasket as they sometimes leak at the back from the half moon shape bit or put some gasket goo round that bit to stop it.

Ok so after doing everything right.... took it for a test drive... 5 mins in, she starts 'diesel knocking' and runs off on her own, dropped it into fifth and pulled the handbrak.... whats gone wrong????

have you got fuel in the oil

If the engine is running away then you are getting fuel or oil into the cylinders from somewhere. If it has only started doing it since you pulled the injectors then this is the obvious place to start. Did the engine run on when the ignition was killed or did it just over rev?
When you torqued the injectors down are you sure that they seated properly?
Were you careful not to pinch or roll any of the O ring seals?
One of the injectors may be allowing fuel to bypass the O ring and enter the cylinder but I would not expect the engine to run away on a single cylinder.
Do you have elevated engine oil level? If so fuel is getting in to the sump and the fuel/oil mix can bypass the rings causing the dreaded run away syndrome despite what you do with the ignition.

engine was running grand for 5, 10 mins, driving better than it ever had, then all of a sudden theres a loud tapping she looses power momentarily (as i pulled the keys out at 50mph ) then starts running off on its own, i take a quick look behind, make sure theres nobody there, slap on the brakes (engine is picking doing serious revvs now) so at 15ish mph i pull the handbrake (now not able to see due to the amount of smoke in the cab) and drop it into 5th... FUN!!!!

Got the cover off again today, furthest back injector is literally gushing diesel into the engine, havent done anything else yet, but it must have literally blown the s**t out of the oring though.... anyway, provided everything goes well and i swap the oring and oil, should it start or should i be on the lookout for other problems too?

Make sure you drain your engine oil and change the filters. Diesel in the oil is not recommended and its what contributed to my engine fragging itself. The fuel system is pressurised to more than 60psi so it does not take long to dilute the engine oil. Have you checked your dip stick levels?

Its very easy to nick or roll the injector O rings when you push them on to the injectors so make up a temporary paper collar to protect them during installation. Just wrap the paper round the injector body and slide the O ring over it until it pops into its groove. Dont forget to remove the paper afterwards.

Once the O rings are on the injectors make sure they are not twisted in any way. Use the correct size O rings or they will never seal. I use vaseline to grease the O ring when pushing the injector in to its hole. It should go in with hand pressure alone then clamp it down to the correct torque.

When you have all injectors seated and torqued down - turn on the ignition so that the fule pump runs and pressurises the fuel system but DONT crank the engine because if it fires you will have engine oil absolutely everywhere but in your engine. You may have to do this several times to purge the fuel system. Check for any obvious leaks before fitting the cam cover.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

right, found the culprit, split o ring on the furthest back injector, i replaced it, and went to redo the injector clearances, f**ker wont even turn over by hand and is making exceptionally loud gurgling noises... time for a Hilux engine i think...

-Defender110- said:

right, found the culprit, split o ring on the furthest back injector, i replaced it, and went to redo the injector clearances, f**ker wont even turn over by hand and is making exceptionally loud gurgling noises... time for a Hilux engine i think...

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sounds like it's hydraulicing, take the spark plug...sorry glowplug out then crank it over by hand using a 24mm socket on the crank pulley

nice one t1g, ill give that a go, but just out of curiousity, would releasing the fuel pipes do the same job? its just the plugs are a bolix to get at, ive no extended sockets...

I take it you drained your engine oil and refilled to correct levels?

check and check.... 18 litres of diesel/oil came out.... new filters and oil gone back in, it does seem like hydro lock as you can turn it round a good bit, ie 3 or 4 cylinders but on the last it gets impossible to rotate and if you leave go it moves back as if releasing pressure. mind you, releasing the fuel hoses helped only enough to set all the clearances, i still cant rotate it fully, is this strange?