2,5 NA to 2,25 Petrol

As some of you have kindly helped me out on previous other rather scattered posts of mine, I figured it was only wise to maybe make a more "general" post of the stuff I am trying to do. Not only since it gives other members something to "follow" if they like, but also to contain posts and not infect the forum with countless small questions.

If you dont like reading and just wanna skip to my questions, these are the specs of my landrover:
- 2,5 NA Diesel
- Standard trans
- Salibury rear diff, normal in front
- 1 ton parabolic rear springs, normal in front
- no overdrive

Story/Specs
So, about half a year ago I bought my 109 2,5NA landrover (pictures will be included)! And its tons of fun! Ive put close to 4k kms on it already without all too much problems.

in an effort to make the car a bit more "comfortable", read: bearable. Ive set out to try and reduce the noise the diesel engine generates. Ive bought some deadening mats which I still need to install to the bulkhead, but also a cheap 2.25 petrol engine.

Naturally, the idea is to swap out the diesel for the 2,25 petrol engine to reduce noise. However, a secondary goal is to increase the MPG (or as we measure here in holland, KM/L) of the landrover. Diesel currently does about 1l/8kms, not cracking. By adding LPG to the system, I can get around 1l/21kms for the same price as a liter of petrol. Pretty nice.

Questions
So, naturally im new to the landrover platform and especially to engine swaps. I have done some v8 swaps, but those are all american platforms. Which are pretty easy.

I want to reuse as much of the auxillary parts from my diesel for my petrol. Course not everything is usable.
However, is there some sort of "list" of the extra parts needed for a conversion like this? I feel like this is pretty common, but I cannot find a definitive guide. If there is one, this might spare me/us alot of questioning.

but maybe the biggest question is: can i do what i want to do? Is this swap doable?

Comments alongside pictures included
I included some pictures, most notably a picture of my car (ofcourse). and also some pictures of the dissasembly process of the petrol engine.

Closing
Thanks in advance for all the comments and discussions which might form here. Im always approachable on here or on my instagram @tscarsandbikes for more detailed conversations/help.

Thanks!
Thomas

So update on the crankshaft, i seem to remember i saw a very distinct groove yesterday. This groove today seemed a lot less significant. However i could still feel it. is this a reason to move up in bearing shell size?

I read the measurements of mine, they are still the rover STD ones. Which i can only assume are standard size. See pictures attached of wear on both the shells and the shaft itsself.

Happy to hear opinions on the wear levels and reccomendations for new bearing sizes!

Thomas

if you can feel the groove then I woud say you need the crank regrinding. The 2.5na will be better mpg than the old petrol engine, they can be quite thirsty. You may want to check the engine mount on the passenger side, because the fuel pump on the 2.5na is low down the chassis mount needs to be modified. That means refitting the petrol will probably involve sorting that out, usually the original mount is cut off and a drivers side engine mount bracket is welded in place. All vehicle sides are with respect to your wrong hand drive Landy LOL

Also, "a cheap petrol engine!" a boat anchor seems to be about £600+ over here.

LordOWar said:

if you can feel the groove then I woud say you need the crank regrinding. The 2.5na will be better mpg than the old petrol engine, they can be quite thirsty. You may want to check the engine mount on the passenger side, because the fuel pump on the 2.5na is low down the chassis mount needs to be modified. That means refitting the petrol will probably involve sorting that out, usually the original mount is cut off and a drivers side engine mount bracket is welded in place. All vehicle sides are with respect to your wrong hand drive Landy LOL

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thanks for your input! Ill consider the crank, because its on the fence of feelable. Especially since the bearing shells show little wear; im hesitant of letting it be resurfaced.

As for the mounts: I sure hope theyre not welded on!!!!!! I havent checked tbh... i DID get the supposed correct mounts with the engine, so that should be sorted quite easily.

LordOWar said:

Also, "a cheap petrol engine!" a boat anchor seems to be about £600+ over here.

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as for cheap, I got a gearbox and this engine for 300 euros, which is like 250 pounds. I might even consider just selling it after I overhaul it.

As for some updates! I gave the engine a fresh coat of paint, and I must say I think it looks really cool!

If you have the 2.5NA in it then the engine mount on the chassis will have been moved, it's the only way to get it to fit. Mine had a modified mount. And £250 is cheap for a petrol engine, everyone dumped them for soot chuckers years ago so there aren't many about now.

LordOWar said:

If you have the 2.5NA in it then the engine mount on the chassis will have been moved, it's the only way to get it to fit. Mine had a modified mount. And £250 is cheap for a petrol engine, everyone dumped them for soot chuckers years ago so there aren't many about now.

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Ah ok, great thanks for that input. Ill check, and probably in the near future posts some pictures of how that movement has been created in my engine well. I have no clue as of now xD

I also figured 125 pounds for the engine was dirt cheap, thats why i also immideately took the gearbox off of his hands. As a nice gesture of some sorts!
Im located in the netherlands however, so i have no clue how rare/scarce petrol is here. Anyways, good to hear i got a great deal!

Acouple of pics to help. The rusty chassis is my old one and it was terminally rusty and the galvo chassis is the new one.You can see the where the proper one has been cut off and the smaller one welded in place

LordOWar said:

Acouple of pics to help. The rusty chassis is my old one and it was terminally rusty and the galvo chassis is the new one.You can see the where the proper one has been cut off and the smaller one welded in place

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Dang it...
I do see that yes. That looks hard to reverse back to the proper mount once its welded on like that!

Hi i have this distributor from my petrol block, but i cant seem to find spare/fresh parts for it on the internet. Is this a 24V distributor? If so, can i plop in a generic 12V one? I have no use for 24V.

Looks mil spec. An electronic 12v dizzy will be a simple drop in replacement.

Wildefalcon said:

Looks mil spec. An electronic 12v dizzy will be a simple drop in replacement.

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Cheers, that was the answer i was looking for

LordOWar said:

Acouple of pics to help. The rusty chassis is my old one and it was terminally rusty and the galvo chassis is the new one.You can see the where the proper one has been cut off and the smaller one welded in place

Click to expand...

i managed to get a good look at then engine mounts, which seem to be the same ones which are on your galvanized chassis. Aka "original". Right?

Here some pics
the right hand side mount (right side is when you stand in front of the bonnet)




when looked at from the bottom though, it looks welded? maybe this is factory or the coating that is on the chassis.



LMK thoughts, this means that IF this is all original, there is an NA engine on original mounts in my landy. Which is something i thought was impossible.

That looks original, but difficult to tell with the Land Rover total loss lubrication system having been in action. It looks like the engine has been raised up using plates between the mounts. If I remember right it is the timing chest that hits the chassis rail so it just need lifting up a bit.

LordOWar said:

That looks original, but difficult to tell with the Land Rover total loss lubrication system having been in action. It looks like the engine has been raised up using plates between the mounts. If I remember right it is the timing chest that hits the chassis rail so it just need lifting up a bit.

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the alnd rover total loss lubrication system being: the owner who forgot to put the filling cap on.... twice... xD

with that new info in mind ill check out how its situated in the engine compartment.

Another one: any known sources which readily have sockets available to tighten/remove the starter dog on the crankshaft? Having difficulty finding it. Have an order list waiting for payment at craddock, but i cant seem to find one in their assortment either.