Rear door bottom repair

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steve2286w

steve2286w

Well-Known Member
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monkeyangerland
every time the wind catches the door it swings round 180 and I need to buy another fog light lens! A few queries here as this is next job for this month
* The sliding stay arm does not really do anything on mine as it’s just wigging in a big rust hole ,does anyone have one that works properly- what angle should it open to before it hits the stop?
* I seen the door bottom repair sections some that come with vertical ends , if these are used is it just a case of welding new nuts on in right place for hinges?
* with a new section on , what do you do with the slider stay arm?
* has anyone used a gas strut to secure door from swinging in the wind , there is a defender kit for this , does this work on the series ? This would be handy when lifting dog in .
Ta
 
I have a piece of seat belt wrapped in vinyl bolted to the door and frame with a couple of self drillers either side. It never had the bar so I did this as a temporary fix about three years ago. Still good.
 
You're right. The slider at the bottom is useless, especially if you carry a spare wheel. I've rigged mine to swop to canvas tilt in the summer so I've just disconnected the slider ; it's a pain but my tyre saves hitting the lights.
 
How did you manage the seat belts on the rag top, In the summer I had the top off mine with the drop down tailgate which was nice and just bolted the seat belt to side cappings with no top buckle
 
I sorted the sliding arm out so it all worked as it should, and it still got bent right back the first time the wind caught the door so I think it was probably never up to the job. I now have brakets on the outside of the door and roof and a bar that clips across, its carried inside. I've seen gate hooks used as well. I often have an extra storage box on the outside of the back door where the spare could go, if this is on it now has a long door stop on it that hits the rear body before the fog lamp gets hit.
 
steve2286w said:
every time the wind catches the door it swings round 180 and I need to buy another fog light lens! A few queries here as this is next job for this month
* The sliding stay arm does not really do anything on mine as it’s just wigging in a big rust hole ,does anyone have one that works properly- what angle should it open to before it hits the stop?
* I seen the door bottom repair sections some that come with vertical ends , if these are used is it just a case of welding new nuts on in right place for hinges?
* with a new section on , what do you do with the slider stay arm?
* has anyone used a gas strut to secure door from swinging in the wind , there is a defender kit for this , does this work on the series ? This would be handy when lifting dog in .
Ta
Click to expand...
Hi
The sliding arm should hold the door open at 90 degrees. there is another channel welded to the door frame that takes the arm this rusts away but does not come with the bottom repair sections that I have seen. I bought a secondhand door to replace this one as its badly rusted and the endstop has broken off allowing the sliding arm to drop out.
20180930_131324.jpg
20180930_131126.jpg
 
Having done one early this year I would say that repairing the rear door bottom with a replacement lower rail is a lot more faf than doing a front door and given the time needed would just purchase a new door.
I did have a gas strut on a 109 I had. It came from an agri store [ tractor door strut ] and fitted it at the top of the door away from possible damage. It was fitted in such a way that as the door was nearly closed it went over center and helped keep the door shut.
 
Totally agree tottot even when repaired (and it is a lot of work) and fitted the sliding arm arrangement does not stop the door closing on you like a gas strut would.
 
Mark Frewin said:
The sliding arm should hold the door open at 90 degrees. there is another channel welded to the door frame that takes the arm this rusts away but does not come with the bottom repair sections that I have seen. I bought a secondhand door to replace this one as its badly rusted and the endstop has broken off allowing the sliding arm to drop out.
Click to expand...


Thanks for pics , the previous owner had fitted some ply to the inner door of mine so not really had a good look at the channel inside I think the arm on mine is bent probably hitting the frame as it swings round. I’m keen to repair original
 
tottot said:
Having done one early this year I would say that repairing the rear door bottom with a replacement lower rail is a lot more faf than doing a front door and given the time needed would just purchase a new door.
I did have a gas strut on a 109 I had. It came from an agri store [ tractor door strut ] and fitted it at the top of the door away from possible damage. It was fitted in such a way that as the door was nearly closed it went over center and helped keep the door shut.
Click to expand...

This sounds a good solution , it sounds like it could be stronger option over the defender location fitting , if when extended and with door open at 90 -120 degrees the strut was in a straight line set back from the hinge side say 250mm
 
You could scour the local scrap yards for gas struts, loads of hatchbacks have them, buy a selection of different lengths/fittings and see what works best.
 
There’s a job lot going of 9 gas struts for £22 ex vat on a LR parts supplier website , it’s prob going to need proper brackets each end , just googling the way these things work and how powerful they can be , just to swing a door open shouldn’t need a lot of force I suspect a tailgate one may be OTT,
I could see a big need for them on the bonnet if you carry the spare on there
 
I don't think it needs to be a very powerful strut, its job is only to hold the door rather than lift it and the stongest force, to stop it blowing right round, is just the end stops on the strut. If its too firm it will make the door hard to shut. I have the spare on the boonet and its decent work out to open the bonnet, still it stops me meddling, I'm only going to lift the bonnet if ihave a good reason!
 
"...I suspect a tailgate one may be OTT..."
my wife's Yaris has 2 gas struts on the tailgate and they are pretty feeble affairs, less effective that the ones on the Corsa she had before, so I would have thought 1 from a Yaris wouldn't too hard to use on a series door. Again, at a scrappy you can 'try before you buy'
 
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