Rear door bottom repair

rob1miles said:

Yes and you could fix one end then move the other about with a clamp unitl you get the geometry right.

Click to expand...

Rob-
That's what I'll do!
Thanks!
Mike

Got the ply cover off , looks like it might need a bottom repair piece but the slider bracket looks ok with a clean up, ordered from YRM and you get enough to go up the sides , the hinge area looks ok so should be fairly straight forward

I forgot that the series rear door is simpler inside than a defender one.
Looks like a straight forward repair.

My landrover has the bracket that is normally fitted for front door stays fitted to side of rear tub so that arm too door is near level.

What is the part number of the rod which goes from the tub to the door? I'd like to go that route, and rig up something on my door to hold it. I have a Series IIA, and I've looked in the Series III Parts manual and Series II Parts catalog and can't find this part number. Any ideas where I could order it?

Thanks folks!
Mike

Not cheap

Great, thank you! Convenient too!
Much appreciated.
Mike

Before I shell out the money for it, I'm going to have to find some piece of channeling which might work with it.
Mike

They've sold over 700 so it must be ok:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-FRO...190953?hash=item3d0d1fc529:g:jx0AAOSwqS5b4bBL

Thanks!

Forgot you are in the States so a UK e-bay link is not much use. I have a new section and can measure it if you want to get one made up.

Thanks for the offer, however I actually have ordered from EBAY sellers in UK. I don't think that's a problem.

My plan is to buy the limit arm from Rovers North and install it in the tub, then mess around trying to figure out a slot arrangement to go on the inside of the door. The challenge I have is the sheet of aluminum checker-plate over the whole inside of the door. So I need to maybe fabricate a slotted piece of tubing or PVC pipe which can take that limit arm and allow it to slide.

Does the bottom channel which is shown on EBAY have that slot to receive the limit arm rod? I didn't see it in the picture.
Thanks!
Mike

No the slot is above the lower door channel.

Okay, thanks! That's going to be my project then. To fabricate one of those.
Thanks!

The slot/bracket looks good enough to rescue. Cut it off and weld it to the new channel. My door has a sheet of ally on the inside, its fixed to the door frame with screws. The bottom corner is cut away to clear the arm.

Started on the door bottom today, I bit the bullet and bought a new door skin should have been delivered today, the other one was getting a bit crusty along bottom edge, took the glass out and removed door lock, looks a bit messy after all the chopping out and will need a bit tinkering to get all 4 joints mating with correct dims, the door width is 900mm between outside edges of the steel sections, i will add a small section just below hinge holes, the retainer slot is sound and will clean up and re weld in i think the outer rubber block had disappeared in the slot, which might account for it swinging open too far
Im guessing the new skin just comes in flat and the edges will need to be bent round so without a bending machine was just going to place it on frame, clamp it, and using rubber mallet? hammer edges round (after cleaning, rustproofing and painting frame and skin also plan to use some body sealant/adhesive between frame and skin..

Looking good.

Nice to see how it all fits, l I'll be having to do something similar in the next couple of years. Looks like a nice job.

Thanks coming on nicely, ran out of welding wire half way through the door stay bracket, with it being thicker havent got the settings on the MIG 150TE correct yet so its just tacked on , having a chopsaw that does 45 deg mitres helps a lot getting perfect joints, pity my welding lets it down, i added some braces near where the window starts on each side, tomorrow should get it all painted up and hope i have enough dum dum for the window!