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Discussion in 'Members Vehicles/Projects' started by 1988smithy, Feb 27, 2019.

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  1. gstuart

    gstuart D3 Grandad

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  2. gstuart

    gstuart D3 Grandad

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    Plus there’s also a place that u can fit lights under ur door mirrors :D
     
  3. gstuart

    gstuart D3 Grandad

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  4. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    Bloody helll @gstuart as if the battery on these don't have enough to deal with lmao
     
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  5. gstuart

    gstuart D3 Grandad

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    That’s ok, I’ve got two batteries , lol

    ADD7EEEA-5CA8-4C64-9CA2-3C9DD3F485B7.gif
     
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  6. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    You know what, cheers for this :D
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2019
  7. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    I know the d3 v6 and L322 v8 maybe totally different in some people’s eyes, (please bare with me)
    The pics show basically the same design
    Have you checked the front cv joint on the prop? Reason I ask is because ours went and was a right Pita. On 1 of you pics it looks a bit dirty/greasy around that area (so did ours) the exhaust is very close. In your pic yours also looks like more of an angle to add to the work it does.

    At this stage of strip down it would be painful to miss a 10min job, when later is a whole days job.

    Ignore me if I am talking ****e :)

    J
     
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  8. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    This pic dude?
    20190421_160314.jpg

    That's the rear/transfer box end, but does look a bit cacky. Agree proximity to exhaust probably warrants a further look. I actually undid both ends but couldn't get it off at the transfer box :eek:

    Ill definitely have a closer look at it before everything goes back in, cheers for heads up :)
     
  9. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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  10. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    I remember reading this! Gonna read it again now :p

    Edit
    @marjon It's a lot tighter under that 322! Haynes manual for D3 does say to remove transmission member as well though, I'll have a good look at the prop uj's tomorrow if they're toast I'll defo do it while I'm about there
    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2019
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  11. dieseldog69

    dieseldog69 Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    All I need is encouragement like this, maybe after I've welded it up, rolled the wheel arches and got an MOT on it LOL

    @1988smithy This is epic!!!

    That crown wheel looks like it has been creating razor blades on the inside edge :eek:
     
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  12. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    It fookin feels epic my mate :eek:

    Crown wheel don't look as bad in real life. The dark notchy edges on pic is really gummed up oil/swarf residue that i can scrape off with a fingernail. It never whined before i lifted it out (itll probably just explode once I've finished with it :D) just had that nasty grinding, rumbly bearing noise.

    I've been thinking what's best to do before I put it back together - give it a good clean out with brake cleaner or leave it and just refill with new oil?
     
  13. dieseldog69

    dieseldog69 Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    You not replacing it now it's out?

    If you're nailing it back then dunk it in a bucket of diesel and use an old bottle brush to scrub it around inside, drain it off and douse it in brake cleaner and blow it clean and dry, fit it up and fill it up with fresh oil until you can get it replaced.

    Well, that's what I would do;)
     
  14. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    I've had to go out and have a quick look lmao

    Index finger is what I scraped off edge of pinion that middle fingers pointing at
    20190422_231414.jpg

    Is the black on the tip of the gear significant heat damage discolouring or normal? It can't be removed
    20190422_231429.jpg

    Crown wheel again
    20190422_231422.jpg

    Can't get over this bearing. It's done about 450 miles towing a caravan let alone all the running about in between no wonder it sounded and looks so rough.
    Slight left hand down under load and towing uphill it day half grumble :oops:
    20190422_231557.jpg

    No evidence of paint chipping off internally that I can tell
    20190422_231433.jpg
     
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  15. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    Just bearing to replace mate as far as I can see, have alook at pics in last post see what you think.

    It's either replace diff carrier bearings myself and drop it back in

    Or take to local transmission specialist

    Get diff carrier bearings and pinion bearings replaced cost £270

    Or get it refurbed completely for c£600

    They're meant to be strong units apart from bearings
     
  16. dieseldog69

    dieseldog69 Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    You must have still had your dodgy soft porn filter on your camera when you took the first picture LOL

    That bearing is shocking :eek:
     
  17. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    Same fingerin' position ;):p
     
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  18. dieseldog69

    dieseldog69 Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    I would refurb but that's just me, fair chunk of cash to splurge but justifiable for a bit of reliability.
     
  19. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    I'd love to to be honest mate but upper control arms need doing as well and I need to double check front prop before it goes back together. Im 99% confident bearings will sort it and she'll provide decent service.....if not at least I'll know how to get it out again :rolleyes:
     
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  20. dieseldog69

    dieseldog69 Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    Front end is hard on the bushes and the drivetrain, slapsome new bearings in it and see how it goes, if it doesn't then you only lost a little bit of cash ;)
     
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