Re-Discovery

gstuart · Apr 23, 2019

Hi guys

May i ask a daft question please , do u have to fit new propshaft bolts when refitting a prop plse

Thks as always

Great work there @1988smithy , take my hat off to u as I know these components arnt exactly lightweight

Top job and looking forward to more piccies

dieseldog69 · Apr 23, 2019

gstuart said:
Hi guys

May i ask a daft question please , do u have to fit new propshaft bolts when refitting a prop plse

Thks as always

Great work there @1988smithy , take my hat off to u as I know these components arnt exactly lightweight

Top job and looking forward to more piccies

Great question and thus far I have not got the foggiest, I have seen the old ones put back in but I suppose it depends on the torque as it would stretch the bolts and several uses could see them un serviceable surely?

1988smithy · Apr 23, 2019

Prop bolts should always be replaced, best practice

bet they don't most times though!

It says in the books you need to mark the prop position in relation to each flange but only if you're refitting the old prop. I've always thought that was weird, if its a new prop do you just slap it straight on?

gstuart · Apr 23, 2019

dieseldog69 said:
Great question and thus far I have not got the foggiest, I have seen the old ones put back in but I suppose it depends on the torque as it would stretch the bolts and several uses could see them un serviceable surely?

Many thks and always grateful for the replies

Was bugging me so found the torque sheet for the D3

gstuart · Apr 23, 2019

Bit more info if it’s any use

gstuart · Apr 23, 2019

1988smithy · Apr 23, 2019

Cheers @gstuart I've downloaded those, they'll come in handy

Upper arms are off, hour and half with a hangover

They're manky

Best to undo this heatshield bolt so you can push shield back and lift and twist arm to get it out.

Once the height sensor and brake gubbins are off, you can lever the arm right up to get better access

Wheel arch liner had to come out on drivers side due to more shìte in the way, I managed to get my hand up and round the back of the air spring to get the front bolt out. Didn't need to take liner out passenger side. Collect a bit of crap behind there lol

Bolt shanks are in good nick! Most time was spent cleaning the threads and rust off various bolt heads

Time to pull the trigger on the parts order and start making this lot look a bit better before everything goes back in

Wiring on that height sensor don't look to clever

1988smithy · Apr 23, 2019

Right I've cheated a bit, but I'm getting tired and want it back together soon.

Took diff to Intergear in willenhall. They've had a look at it, ive explained I can't afford a full rebuild. They're happy to change the shìt bearing for me and reseal the case up for £75. Theres a bit of roughness in the pinion bearing but nothing untoward he said. So they can do that, ive got enough on my plate

Hopefully by end of weekend parts from advanced factors will be here and I can start putting some shiny stuff back on. In the meantime I'll give the shabby bits a wire brush and quick spray with stonechip cuz that's all I've got in the garage

marjon · Apr 23, 2019

Don’t blame you for farming out a bit, sounds like a reasonable price too.

Prop bolts, hummmm
Yes manual says new, I didn’t. (Found that bit too late). I rechecked 1 & 2 weeks later all still in place and tight.
At the end of the day sometimes I feel they are covering their bottoms by saying that, so many “discard and new required” in the manuals.
What did we do years ago? Bolt looks good, torque it, it’s good?

.

J

LUKBENPHI · Apr 23, 2019

very interesting read following with interest nice to see a D3 being worked on for a change

1988smithy · Apr 23, 2019

marjon said:
Don’t blame you for farming out a bit, sounds like a reasonable price too.

Prop bolts, hummmm
Yes manual says new, I didn’t. (Found that bit too late). I rechecked 1 & 2 weeks later all still in place and tight.
At the end of the day sometimes I feel they are covering their bottoms by saying that, so many “discard and new required” in the manuals.
What did we do years ago? Bolt looks good, torque it, it’s good? .

J

To be fair, I didn't put new ones in the defender when I did rear prop, but there's one snapped off in diff flange from previous skullduggery so I'm guessing they've been out before. For £1.50 each I'll change em lol

1988smithy · Apr 23, 2019

LUKBENPHI said:
very interesting read following with interest nice to see a D3 being worked on for a change

Cheers, few of them on here now. Im not quite as scared of it now as I was before I started!

marjon · Apr 23, 2019

1988smithy said:
To be fair, I didn't put new ones in the defender when I did rear prop, but there's one snapped off in diff flange from previous skullduggery so I'm guessing they've been out before. For £1.50 each I'll change em lol

I can understand that thought process too

and would go along with that.

Mine hadn’t been touched.
J

1988smithy · Apr 23, 2019

marjon said:
I can understand that thought process too and would go along with that.

J

Just reminded myself I've gotta get that snapped fooker out

I broke the stud that holds the brake flexi to the knuckle as well

LUKBENPHI · Apr 23, 2019

1988smithy said:
Cheers, few of them on here now. Im not quite as scared of it now as I was before I started!

I keep looking at them as they exactly the sort of thing im after size wise

Out of interest when not towing how much does it do to a tank and how much is it to fill up?

Thanks

1988smithy · Apr 23, 2019

LUKBENPHI said:
I keep looking at them as they exactly the sort of thing im after size wise

Out of interest when not towing how much does it do to a tank and how much is it to fill up?

Thanks

Ermmm, I ain't actually done a brimmed tank yet

trip computer shows 28mpg best so far but I think it needs a service and a few good runs with decent fuel and I'll see that go up. Hoping for low 30s on longer runs.

Round town I wouldn't expect much more than 25/26mpg tbh. It only drops to 25mpg towing on a run though which I think is ok.

Think they're a 90litre tank so well over £100 to fill

gstuart · Apr 24, 2019

Great work there mate

U can but new height sensor connectors , can get them pre made as well

https://www.disco3.co.uk/shop/6-pin-plug-for-suspension-height-sensor-p61.html

Also sprayed all my arches when the liners were out with dinitrol

1988smithy · Apr 24, 2019

gstuart said:
Great work there mate

U can but new height sensor connectors , can get them pre made as well

https://www.disco3.co.uk/shop/6-pin-plug-for-suspension-height-sensor-p61.html

Also sprayed all my arches when the liners were out with dinitrol

View attachment 176306

View attachment 176307

Cheers mate, are they plug an play then or would I need diagnostics to calibrate?

As it goes, when it's all back together it is just a case of re connecting battery and putting f26 back and suspension will be fine??

gstuart · Apr 24, 2019

1988smithy said:
Cheers mate, are they plug an play then or would I need diagnostics to calibrate?

As it goes, when it's all back together it is just a case of re connecting battery and putting f26 back and suspension will be fine??

No probs , u shouldn't need a diagnostic reader with just replacing the wire connectors , as long as the battery is disconnected when removing the connectors which I see you’ve already done

U need a reader if u remove the height sensors or replace them

However ur more than likely need a reader after all the alignment has been done unless they can check ur steering wheel sensor angle , indeed has to be at zero, when alignment is done this can throw it out, in which case ur DSC will start kicking in when going round corners ,the hunter alignment centre should be able to do all that for u

Another reason to have a gap iid as that can do the steering angle reset , lol

1988smithy · Apr 24, 2019

gstuart said:
No probs , u shouldn't need a diagnostic reader with just replacing the wire connectors , as long as the battery is disconnected when removing the connectors which I see you’ve already done

U need a reader if u remove the height sensors or replace them

However ur more than likely need a reader after all the alignment has been done unless they can check ur steering wheel sensor angle , indeed has to be at zero, when alignment is done this can throw it out, in which case ur DSC will start kicking in when going round corners ,the hunter alignment centre should be able to do all that for u

Another reason to have a gap iid as that can do the steering angle reset , lol

I've just removed the sensor arm off the upper control arm....

Really need to save for a gap tool mate, big outlay but be worth it

Re-Discovery

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