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L322 Drive shaft CV & propshaft.

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by marjon, Jan 19, 2019.

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  1. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    L322 2011 4.4TDV8. 127k km, 76k m
    so guys this is what I have found after some ticking going on underneath whilst driving( only hear when slow with window down)
    So a good look underneath today over the pit reveals.
    1. I can move the front CV left side (short shaft) slightly and it seems to make a similar ticking sound as to what we hear in the car. It seems to move left to right more than up & down.
    2. The front propshaft, front CV also seems to have movement (the rear is solid).

    So is there something I might be missing here or is it just worn out parts?

    When I checked it first I jacked up one front wheel and turned by hand which led me to the sound on the opposite side, then went under to check, I have just had a thought that the Movement could be a loose hub nut to show left to right movement on the shaft is that possible? Need to jack up this wheel and check again. But will double check my findings tomorrow before placing any order.

    But either way the propshaft needs some work. And (initial thoughts) outer driveshaft CV.
    So do I replace the whole short drive shaft with 2 new CVs as they are both the same age and abuse level, rather than just do the outer CV and then find that the inner is gone? This will then leave me with a spare to rebuild for future (as we intend to keep for a while), and if I am going that far I would rather not do it again next year.
    The propshaft I don’t seem to be able to locate the part CV replacement so guess a complete replacement here ? (More searching required)
    Any more checks?
    Thanks for comments or any ideas.
    J
     
  2. biketeacherdave

    biketeacherdave Well-Known Member

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    My 1st thought is try a new hub nut and make sure its on tight. Recently had one fail causing all sorts of issues it was put on tight but just wasnt holding
     
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  3. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    @biketeacherdave thanks for that, front bushes were done couple of years ago (not me) so guess it is possible. So will check thanks.

    J
     
  4. myfirstl322

    myfirstl322 Well-Known Member

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    Geroutavit.....
    Driveshafts are designed to have a little sideways play, at least at the diff end, but bear in mind the L322 is actually a sliding shaft comprising of an inner and outer, in order to alter it's length in accordance with the inherent range of suspension articulation.
    Any detectable rotational play between shaft and outer cv can cause clicking, inner less so.

    Prop shafts should be tight at the cv's, more likely to click on take-up of drive.


    Shaft nut/bolts at hub good call.
     
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  5. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    Ok guys thanks for the thoughts.
    Have been out again to check.
    The hub nut is not loose and has not moved ( still staked and secure) everything else tight.
    This is what I did/found today.

    With the car jacked up and the wheel just off the ground no movement on the driveshaft.
    With car on the ground (driveshaft is now straight) I can now move the shaft left to right, no rotation slack or up down. The other side has a very small similar movement, but nowhere near the amount on the left side. All the gaiters are good with no visible leaks or splits.
    I can only think that what I see is what @myfirstl322 described, it just seems a little excessive to me.

    So now going to concentrate on the propshaft first, it is definitely not right and easier to change for sure. Once new 1 fitted I can then rule that out and see if I need to do more.

    So where did I hide that plastic:eek::eek:

    Thanks again guys:)

    J
     
  6. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    So this arrived today from euro parts 4x4, first time I have used them and must say good service.

    C22E8381-48F0-422C-962A-86F82FE49B05.jpeg
    So I guess it’s something todo tomorrow. No markings to give away who/where made but the part number does start with “TAT” hope it’s not :eek:

    J
     
  7. myfirstl322

    myfirstl322 Well-Known Member

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    Half hour job...;):eek::oops:
     
  8. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    I am hoping that it will take me longer to light the fire,tidy the bench,and shuffle cars. Before I get to start.
    But how many knuckles will get sacrificed during that half hour:eek:.

    Will let you know.

    J
     
  9. myfirstl322

    myfirstl322 Well-Known Member

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    Hopefully you find the wheels nuts are tight...
     
  10. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    They are. They get changed every year to run the winter/summer.
    I checked them as previous post,checked for any loose nuts:D:eek: on front end.

    Which reminds me we need to get a couple of new summers:eek: more plastic flexing :oops:

    J
     
  11. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    So I am in it for a little bit more than half an hour.:(
    So who would have thought that 6 bolts each end was all you had to remove:rolleyes:.
    So bolts out in the half hour no issue, but do you think it wiggles out of the space, off course we would like to think so:oops:.
    Remove the small section of exhaust and a few heat shields, more space to work with. Enough? no:(

    So next step, look at it:D look at it some more:D. It looks to me like some substantial bits will need to be removed.

    Have searched for a decent manual and found 1 that states the transmission support frame has to be removed, from my looking I think I have to agree. Wonderful design:(:(

    So if anybody knows different please let me know before I dive in tomorrow, and sacrifice a few more knuckles:(

    J
     
  12. myfirstl322

    myfirstl322 Well-Known Member

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    Blimey.....:eek:
     
  13. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    That’s polite:D

    I wasn’t trust me:).

    Will take some pics tomorrow. And will jiggle some more in the hope it’s 1 of those Chinese wire puzzle things, there’s always hope:(.

    J
     
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  14. myfirstl322

    myfirstl322 Well-Known Member

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    Petrol V8 front prop just drops out according to manual.

    Obvs TDv8 is somewhat different.
     
  15. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    Think I was also referencing an older manual and agree with you. Maybe pre the diff recall. Where they changed the whole prop design?

    Cos I was under the impression that pretty much everything was the same underneath (mostly) regardless of engine type.
    Hey ho :) school day everyday:oops:

    J
     
  16. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    Test driver reports quiet as a mouse:):)

    Just gonna get cleaned up and pour a beer,and then I will sit down and tell ya a story with a happy ending:)

    J
     
  17. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    I will start with some pics of where I left off last night.
    L322 1 Jon 0:(
    Front end
    E2A732CC-222B-450E-AC38-856C343BA6AC.jpeg

    Rear end
    33EBE379-A465-45E5-BD0F-326B2A984BCC.jpeg

    Jiggle the back
    69FECE4A-0C1B-47C2-B26B-4F7AEFC9615C.jpeg
    Jiggle the front
    C082B9E6-7F09-4E1D-8679-7AC0D98AC173.jpeg

    Anyway fresh start today, had a good look and thought maybe jack up the whole front and the ARB would drop enough for me to get the end through the gap. NO that don’t work.

    (If I say a particular side it means looking at the front at the car)
    So as the manual I have states remove the transmission subframe I guess here we go.:(
    So off with all that stupid heat shield stuff down the right hand side, to reveal the subframe bolts.
    Look at the left hand side :mad: you have got to be kidding. The exhaust covers the front subframe bolt so I have to release and lower the whole exhaust with all that pipework and wires:mad:. (Coffee and cig break and sit and look)

    Back to it.
    Loosen the right hand side bolts and the main bolt for the transmission mount.
    Place transmission jack under the transmission and raise, take weight.
    Release 2 right hand side bolts and remove completely.
    Lower transmission jack slowly which allows the right hand side to drop away from the body, (I know its putting slight strain on the left hand side rubbers).
    Lower till about 1-2inch gap.
    Now I can still pull down more on the frame against the rubber so not over stressed.
    The prop shaft now can be moved in such away to pass it over the top of the subframe by pulling down on the frame and juggling the shaft out.

    BF5C3F05-8FDE-48F2-9F3D-B25766DBAAFA.jpeg

    243A338D-DBCE-41F4-A02A-3592E39B12B0.jpeg

    It’s free:):)

    CB07B95D-A8BA-41C3-B3A5-2C574456EE17.jpeg

    Now can anyone spot the difference?
    Now it’s time for loads more coffee:eek:, so double check and yes everybody lists this part as compatible with the 2011 TDV8.
    So after a break I can only assume it does fit. After an hour of pushing and shoving I can assure you it don’t.:mad::(.

    So what to do next. I don’t have next day delivery here.
    I take a good look at both props CVs and the overall length of the shaft. Is it stiff because it’s new? Try to squish it with ratchet strap,NO:(
    So the choice is do I put the old 1 back in, send back prop and look around for the correct 1?
    Look closer at the old 1,can I repack? NO it’s fecked :(, time for more coffee and thinking/looking.

    Let’s look at the CVs a bit closer, (sorry no pics) but they measure up the same as does the small amount of shaft that I could get to.
    Remove the CV and change:) how hard can it be;).
    CV is held on with 1 circlip and just slides off, swap the fecked 1 with a good 1:):), we are on a roll now.

    From here it’s just reverse everything above (as they say in the manuals):).

    Now to bolt it all together and check everything twice before covering with the next bit.
    No bolts left in the tray, no bits left on the floor, job jobbed:).

    So M takes out for a test drive and reports all is quiet:) (I have greasey paws, not touching anything inside the car).

    So now to the parts.
    Car is 2011 TDV8.

    Propshaft brought was TAT1286, same as TVB000040(number on box)&TVB500520(another compatible number)

    I can assure you it don’t fit.
    Now the 520 on other sites looks slightly diff, it’s not only the length at issue, the 40 body has a bigger diameter.

    Apparently you can’t buy the CV for the prop separately. I have a number off the new 1 and will search this. Cos this is BS.

    Hope this helps somebody who needs to do this. I would also say not a job to be done on the drive.

    Thanks J.
     
  18. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    That turned in to a right mission, glad you worked a fix in the end I hate having to put bits back whilst you source the right bits.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2019
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  19. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    I probably took off a bit more off than really needed in the first attempt.
    But now knowing I think 1/2 a day would get it.

    Yes the parts issue really bugs me (especially where we are). I will let supplier know the issue.

    I always approach a problem with a positive attitude, “the box” garage. Go outside and think “outside the box”:)

    J
     
  20. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    Yes think outside the box or there is more than one way to skin a cat,
     
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