Prop shaft problem???
- Thread starter Alc
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SmileySteve
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This maybe a stupid answer but are you sure theres no remnants of a split pin still in the locknut? wouldnt take much to prevent it moving
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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Did mine by getting someone to stamp on the brakes, used a bar long enough to reach under the side of the Landy so I could stand on it. If the socket is twisting at an angle use blocks or a jack to support the knuckle on the bar
SmileySteve
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I often use a a bar (not ratchet as they get shagged doing this) and a short lump hammer. A few short blows can usually work, but as BB says make sure the socket is square on the nut whatever method you try 
good luck, am doing the same job this afternoon!
good luck, am doing the same job this afternoon!
timtheenchanteruk
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torque it up really on this one, cant remember the tension, but its rather tight
to undo mine, I used a breaker, wedged agains the chassis, low box, and in gear, start it up, foot on brake, let off the clutch gently till it takes up the slack, then a couple of jerks n it came off.
to undo mine, I used a breaker, wedged agains the chassis, low box, and in gear, start it up, foot on brake, let off the clutch gently till it takes up the slack, then a couple of jerks n it came off.
jamesmartin
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flat
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torque it up really on this one, cant remember the tension, but its rather tight
to undo mine, I used a breaker, wedged agains the chassis, low box, and in gear, start it up, foot on brake, let off the clutch gently till it takes up the slack, then a couple of jerks n it came off.
workshop manual says 96lbs/ft.
if its an early diff then it has spacers so thats fine, if its td5 or later then it has compression shims - you must not torque it further than the compression shim has already been compressed or you will overload your diff bearings. You basically mark it before you take it off, count the number of turns to remove it then do it up to exactly that mark and number of turns again
To remove the nut it used a jack under then end of a breaker bar to apply constant pressure then tapped the end of the socket with a ball pein hammer - my nut came undone with a bang!! I also used a piece of bar drilled to match one side of the drive flange - i bolted this to the flange and used it to counter the turning of the transmission.
Dont try do it with you vehicle jacked up it will pull forwards (even with the hand brake on) and may hurt you. do it with all 4 wheels on the floor
jamesmartin
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? td5 diffs use std shims ,salisbury and freelander use collapsible spacer and they are set by checking rolling resistance,counting turns isnt really a good enough method
flat
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Apologies, I stand corrected. That was the information I was told by a mechanic when I asked for tips to do my pinion seal myself. Did not intend to mislead!
Ed
SmileySteve
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Did mine this afternoon, got the split pin out and it was loose!, still counted the turns anyways, replaced the seal counted turns back on and was tight after another half turn.
Then applied more tension until split pin hole lined up, guessed this was about right.
cant really apply accurate torque if then have to slacken or further tighten to allign split pin holes?
Then applied more tension until split pin hole lined up, guessed this was about right.
cant really apply accurate torque if then have to slacken or further tighten to allign split pin holes?
I know its not relevant in this instance but if you have a castellated nut and split pin you should torque the nut to the minimum specified torque and then tighten slightly more (the minimum needed) if you need to align with the split pin hole - never loosen it!
Alc
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Thats what i did, there was 2 n half threads showing so when i tightened it back up to roughly the same then the pin holes lined up... Ive done about 4 hours driving since and it seems fine.
I discovered my breather pipe was blocked where it screws in so this must have been the cause of the leak.
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