L322 Project Vanos and Timing Chain Guides Starts Today...

Fecking spot on Andy.....a massive well done to you.

You openly admit to not being a spanner jockey and this job filled you with dread, but I am so pleased you took your time, asked questions, checked and rechecked the timing (although I slap you for not checking the belts correctly ) and then got on with it.

I look forward to the How To.....

Well done Andy, bet you were sweating as much as the time your missus found THE photo's.

Cheers, i haven't done any more with it yet as i had to derange rover.
I did start it briefly tonight and it started fine, still idles at 1000 rpm and the belts are a bit squeeky but nothing engine related so i am hoping all is well.
When i get more time I'll give it a close going over with the Faultmate and Allcomms and see whats what but this morning i thought it was dead.
Still got a tiny drip of oil out of my drain plug so may need to address that.
Thanks Y'all

Saint.V8 said:

Fecking spot on Andy.....a massive well done to you.

You openly admit to not being a spanner jockey and this job filled you with dread, but I am so pleased you took your time, asked questions, checked and rechecked the timing (although I slap you for not checking the belts correctly ) and then got on with it.

I look forward to the How To.....

Click to expand...

Well I have hundreds of photos which help massively and it was your advice initially of taking my time that made all the difference as i am usually in a blind panic to get a job done when really it is so much easier and faster to do the job methodically. When it comes to working with hand tools my Dad taught me to not put it down, put it away which is really good advice as I can lose tools without even fecking moving sometimes so if you put them back where they belong as you are working it is so much faster to find them when you need them.

tomcat59alan said:

Well done Andy, bet you were sweating as much as the time your missus found THE photo's.

Click to expand...

Bleeding right mate, lucky on that occasion i could say "look it has nothing to do with me, it's just a bloke called Alan i met on landyzone that happens to like sheep"

I'm giving you a big slap on the back (Bankable, for BBq's, adult parties or a sneaky skittles fest in the wee hours!))
A mans job done, T-shirt surely HAS to be ordered to commemorate....."I punch above my Veight! or "Bavaria, eaten mine sheizen"
Bravo.

(Butttttt...where the 10miller)?

You are a bit bonkers me thinks but thanks
I still need to fit the last few bits and then give it a long road test and see what if anything comes back on the diagnostics

Well just to confirm, I fitted all the last brackets and covers tonight and took it for a rip and all appears well, no oil leaks, no engine related codes, no start up rattle experienced, no diesel noise when warm, pulls really sweet through the rev range and idle has dropped back to 750 rpm as expected now the battery has had chance to recover.
Still running the original thermostat but will get around to fitting the mod or the standard 88 deg stat at some point but just wanted to run it as standard for a bit.
I think I am really pleased as it was a mammoth task and I reckon all in around 45 hours + and £800 with all the tools. It took me a long time as i had to make a few tools and was taking my time in the beginning but the days soon slipped by. I reckon I could do it in half the time if I had to do it again.
The pic below is about as far as i got stripped down, I was running out of parts to take off at this stage.
Thanks to everyone for their support

This youtube walk through i found really useful.


This will get you some of the way and the place i bought the seals and press tool
http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/m62tu_vanos_procedure.htm

This was also very helpful
https://www.germanautosolutions.com...62_m62tu_cam_tools/m62_mstr_cam_tools_diy.php

If attempting this then a decent 27 mm socket and 3/4" or 1 " breaker bar and a 4 - 5 ft extension bar is a must for undoing the crank bolt, using the vanos press tool and tightening the crank bolt.
if you have a 1/2" breaker bar, no matter how long you will smoke it doing this procedure.

I must have had over 100 grip seal bags with the write on strips to label every part that came off and I took hundreds of photos of every part of the engine before I stripped down each stage.

Very nice work HC. This is one of those jobs that I like to think I could do, but in reality would end up paying someone else a bucket of cash.

Fecking awesome Andy and thanks for linking the helpful resources too.....

Every M62 will need this at some point so this post will be a helpful resource.....

Ever considered a photo laden How To...??

Wow.
Absolutely Fab...
Well done you...
Cheers.

Cheers guys, it was emotional !!
It was like all the jobs I have ever done on the RR all rolled into one, I reckon £2k cash all in including getting the RR to me and back again and I'll be away and in business
They are really nice engines to work on but what takes the time is knowing that one slip up and the thing is toast
I have driven it about 100 miles today, even had a play in sports mode and I think it is more responsive with the vanos sorted and the new pcv valve but could just be that i am confident in giving it a bit of right foot, although not too much and she is a bit fat for doing the 50's hop..
I am looking forward to doing the 80 degree mod though as it still feels so hot bless it, there is a reason that turbos have an intercooler and it ain't to increase the temperature of the engine !

I am running stat free at the moment and she sits in the early 80's on a warm/hot day and in the low to mid 70's on a cool day....

Yes the M62 is designed to operate at around 105.....but the tranny overheat comes in at 120 and the Coolant warning on the engine is 124......so even the standard running temps are close to the upper limits....

I removed my stat as I was getting horrendous air locks in the system that I couldn't figure out where from....turned out to be the heater matrix!! and I never put the stat back!

Evening mate, my top hose feels like it is made from steel when it's up to temperature and the engine smells hot but now I don’t have the burning oil smell I have had since I owned it originally from the cam cover gaskets but also from the front timing cover gaskets which are now replaced.
I have an 88 deg stat which is a Behr that will bolt straight in as well as the 80 deg mod kit so will probably sell the 88 deg one when I am finished.
I cut my PCV valve apart today as well and the diaphragm was just dust so that probably hadn't been doing anything since I had it either although it tested ok using the manometer test I did a while back.
My PCV valve has both the top hoses blanked off so I am not entirely sure it is doing anything anyway.
I could also see where the valley pan gasket had been leaking by the corrosion around the edge of the aluminium body.
I also laid out the now empty bags I used for the parts I had to remove, not including the big parts that don't fit in a bag, which is why it seemed to go on forever fitting them back on.
Garage is back to normal now as well with all the cardboard boxes in the boot ready for recycling, just doing my bit for the planet, driving to the tip in a vehicle that runs on petrol and returns 17 mpg

At least there are no diesel micro-particulates, just good old-fashioned CO2.

Mmmm CO2...... (Hydrcarbons more favourable to the nose though) lol

HC, how's she running, all good I hope.

I remember distinctly the exact point when my vanos/timing wen't a bit woo/////
It once had a a lovely perceptible instantaneous part throttle 'on cam' feel and then it was lost, no doubt in my mind the vanos or chain was going west.
Still went like sh!te of a stainless shovel tho. I miss it so much.

All seems to be going well thanks, probably done around 100 miles since the rebuild and happy so far with no startup rattle or hot idle knocking and zero leaks.
All seems well as far as responsiveness, the new PCV valve possibly played a part in that also, I even had a little play in sport mode around a few lanes near me with good visibility although I don't think it will ever be a Caterham
I have started doing a few cosmetic jobs such as repainting the leather seats and will have tart up around the rear arches and the like. The rear wiper also needs stripping out and looking at.
I would like to buy a tig welder and make myself a proper rear exhaust system with a little more growl but nothing offensive, only because i love welding and haven't tried tig on stainless before so i need an excuse to learn.
Once i have done everything i can think of and can sell it on with a clear conscience i might get a 5.0 SC but need to clear a few RR debts before then

That's great HC, you obviously did it right first time, a T-shirt I want to earn! Muchos kudos.
Bodywork, been there, welding been there..according to Lyoyds of London I did rigs, don't remember much!

Bought a Draper V2 3hp comp. and shot a 2000 Tranny wi 2k,,,, still coughing 3 years on! No, probably the tobacco.

I would buy yours, for the story of sweat, ingenuity and tears alone... True grit!

I am partial to a bit of 2K myself and made myself sick on it by thinking I don't really need my mask for such a quick job but of course I can only buy it for vintage restorations and agricultural vehicles now
I did take a week on the right first time approach and probably timed it 3 or 4 times to make sure it was spot on but I reckon I could do it a lot quicker the more often I did it but like anything it's easy when you know how.

France is the place for 'Tractor' renovations..... and THEY chunnel!

Great write up well done. Thinking of doing this job before i have lpg on the beast. Mine only done 78k miles buts its an 03 so age will dictate the hardening of the guides. Can this be done with the inlet still on. I ask this as mine had the head gaskets and top gaskets done only last year before i had it so i dont expect any surprises there.
#thanks