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P38A Project P38

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by monkfish24, Jan 20, 2019.

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  1. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Oh thought you were taking the motor out then disassembling it!

    No the heads won't come off with the manifolds attached while in the car..

    Irwin bolt extractors are well worth the investment if you've damaged the bolts ;)
     
  2. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    6 point socket and imperial equivalents are the slightly larger size so its the metric sockets you can get away with hammering on an imperial nut/bolt,if you whack the bolt straight down on its head with as large as drift that will fit and a proper hammer it will loosen it ,might take 2 hits might take 20
     
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  3. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    I'm working on my own at the moment so just figured I'd disassemble it in the car before I pull the block out. It'll get rebuilt out of the car.

    Ha, I know that now, first time working on a V8 this small. I'm more used to MTU 4000 and 2000 series engines.

    I've just had a look at them, they look good, the only issue is I think the wall thickness of the socket is too thick. For that price it's worth a go.
    Work ceases now for the weekend, going to be a bit busy, just annoyed I couldn't get it done before the weekend.
     
  4. RangeRoller dt

    RangeRoller dt Well-Known Member

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    Whatever size u want (metric/imperial) , weld a nut that size on the head of the stud ;)
     
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  5. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Spent most of my spare time this weekend reading up on the Rover V8.

    I already have new gaskets and seals in the garage ready to go in.

    I see what you mean about the Tappets and Cam shaft, it makes a lot of sense after seeing the wear they go through.
     
  6. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Ah ya see!

    I ain't crazy talking about these Flat Tappet Cams!

    Also have a good gander at the cam bearings, make sure they aren t breaking up! :)

    Compare the new cam to the old and you'll see the difference is between lobe peaks will be staggering, that is if you go for a stock cam! ;)
     
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  7. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, your not wrong about the flat Tappets! I'm surprised I can't find a roller tappet kit but more moving parts mean more chance of failure!

    I'm thinking about a fruitier Cam, it'd be rude not to whilst it's apart....

    I have looked at new EEPROMs as well, not cheap but it should help release a few more torques for off roading.

    I have been trying to see how the cam is held in bearings but cant see how it goes in, is it just shells or normal roller bearings in there?
     
  8. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    It just rides on bearing shells that are in the block, not too difficult to replace, but i doubt you'd need to TBH just worth a check.. ;)

    Piper 285 apparently go well in the V8's some good torque and HP increases..

    A roller tappet cam i haven't bothered looking into on the RV8 so long as you break the cam in and use proper oil with ZDDP you should be ok with the flat tappet.
     
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  9. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    Don't forget the new front cover, good to have full oil pressure.
     
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  10. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    A new bottom end gasket set is on order next I feel, it's got a leak from the sump gasket and it'll give me a chance to clear all the rubbish out of the bottom end and oil pump.

    I think with the cam, I may just put a standard one in for now. I want a reliable engine first and then maybe more power later. I can trick my mind as well that way, if I fit a cam now I won't feel the gains where as if I drive the RR for a bit then do it, I will feel the increase
     
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  11. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Yeah thats good, they go well in stock form TBH!

    Just remember to break in the cam! ;)
     
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  12. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Well the 6 point socket worked!

    The nearside head is off, the liners look good and the aluminium is in good nick. There is no steam cleaning in any of the bores. Time to take it to the engine shop and give it a good clean out and checked for flatness.
     
  13. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    The decks should be ok unless she's be nuked ;)

    Cylinder heads, depends on how hot she's got! ;)
     
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  14. pwood999

    pwood999 Well-Known Member

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    Also get the block pressure tested. My heads needed 9 thou skim, and block had 3 leaking core plugs which was probably the original overheat cause.

    Did you buy the proper 6-point Imperial sockets for the rebuild ? There's plenty on amazon that should be ok for DIY use ( and easier to get the torques right with correct socket).
     
  15. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Its a metric engine post 1995 from what I've read, either way, I agree, much easier to torque and not worry about slipping off the tops of heads.

    I've been beaten today by the O/S exhaust manifold bolt and the wind whistling through my lean to garage/ falling down building.
     
  16. pwood999

    pwood999 Well-Known Member

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    Most engine nuts & bolts are Imperial, but much of the body & chassis are Metric !!
     
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  17. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Just had a quick google, seems the head bolts are M10x1.5 metric threads.
     
  18. pwood999

    pwood999 Well-Known Member

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    Ok good luck. Mine seem to be 7/16 threads.
     
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  19. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Which engine and year is that?
     
  20. pwood999

    pwood999 Well-Known Member

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    GEMS 1998 4.0 V8.
     
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