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P38A Project P38

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by monkfish24, Jan 20, 2019.

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  1. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    As the title says, just been to pick up the P38 I spoke about before. 4.6 V8 Gems.
    I paid £160 for it, it has MOT, the suspension is working perfectly, the brakes are astounding at stopping such a heavy car and the gearbox is smooth and all gears work.

    It is overheating like a mother trucker though. There is loads of mayonnaise under the oil cap. I started from cold with a full coolant bottle and drove off from the seller, after about 10 miles, the heating went from hot to cold without any change in the temp setting. Then the engine went in to overheat.

    I removed the coolant cap and there was a lot of pressure in the system, only place that can come from is obviously the cylinders so hopefully tomorrow, I'll start getting the engine apart and find out if it's just head gasket issues or if it's something more deeper.

    Why the P38? I wanted something easy to fix. The engine still comes out the old fashioned way, the electrics are well within my abilities and parts are still readily available. It's capable, easily moddable and very comfortable on the road.

    A few other things don't work, the cruise control doesn't operate, the blowers don't move from the windscreen position, the sunroof is a little leaky and the heated seats don't operate very well either. Those are all minor points at the moment compared to the engine! I'll get some photos on here tomorrow and this will probably turn in to quite a long thread.
     
  2. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    I'd be inclined not to cook it too many times, the gems and thor for that matter will drop a liner if it gets too hot..

    The HG is definitely gone, not too much of a ball ache.

    The lower manifold bolt from cylinder 8 is a pain in the arse to remove as all the steering gubbins is in the way.. ;)

    Also the heatshields are a nightmare, i'd be inclined to heatwrap the manifolds..

    Oooh

    and pictures of ya P38 ;)
     
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  3. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I was quite careful on the way back, I stopped as soon as possible whenever it went hot, released the pressure and topped it back up and it stayed at normal temperature for another 10 miles again.

    As you say, head gaskets are easier on this engine than a straight 4, no timing to worry about! I'll strip it down to that point anyway, only true way of knowing what's going on in there!

    I did notice the viscous fan wasn't exactly stiff when I turned the engine off as well. I don't think it's a cause, more just something that needs doing. Fan clutch and water pump will be on the list for the engine rebuild anyway.

    Understood on the bolts, thanks for the heads up. Heat wrapping also sounds like a good plan too!
     
  4. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Yes you couldn't ask for an easier engine to to a top end..

    Spray a good dose of Wd40 or PB blaster on the manifold bolts prior to removing to make that easier, they're 13mm i believe ;)

    You might also want to pull the valley gasket and have a look at the cam, while she's apart thats an ideal time to have a butchers ;)
     
  5. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    I have an engine lift and stand, I'm very tempted at the moment just to pull it out as a unit and have it out and easily fixable.
     
  6. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Might as well give her a "refresh" if you decide to pull the unit out ;)
     
  7. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I think that may well the best option at the moment, that way, if it is a hole in the block I can decide if it is a repair job or a new block with top hats.
     
  8. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Hole?!

    I hope she ain't got rods hanging out of her! ;)

    Strip it down and have a look at the liners they should all be perfectly level with the block deck.

    If they are starting to creep you'll know!!

    And be able to decide ;)
     
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  9. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    If you intend keeping it then pull the lump and do it properly, as Henry said check the cam for wear and maybe a new front cover with oil pump and a good look over and she will be good for years of service, and as you say parts are cheep,
    that's a lot of motor for £160 you could make more than that broken for spares .
     
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  10. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Ha ha, no I just mean where the coolant channels can sometimes open out the the liners and leak coolant in to the sump or cylinders.
     
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  11. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    The cruise control will probably be splits in the vacume hose most just replace the hole pipe from peddle to actuator on engine.
     
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  12. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I think it's just a bit too good for scrap, it's not completely finished and I'm willing to do the work properly and have a well put together Range Rover at the end of it. P38s are slowly getting rarer.
     
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  13. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    With only 167k made worldwide they were rare at launch :eek::D

    Lovely cars, getting more valuable too :cool:
     
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  14. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    Time has killed off a fair few of them! I see a different one or two at the scrapyard whenever I go up there.

    I think the value of them will see a slow increase for good examples for a while now. Hopefully...
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
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  15. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Aye they're rising in value.

    Like the classics they were cheap for a while, many drove them till they broke and then scrapped them, which has killed off the numbers!!

    try and find a cheap RRC these days, a few years ago they were 10 a penny ;)
     
  16. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    That's handy if you have a scrappy near you that has p38`s, round here nearly all the scrappy`s have gone and finding a p38 even harder.
     
  17. ukadamwest

    ukadamwest Well-Known Member

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    +1

    MartyUK had a good suggestion for how he did his number 8 lower manifold bolt. jacked it up, pulled the weel off and the wheel arch liner out and with a long extension got straight on it. it was probably quicker than the way I went with a knuckle joint and a lot of effing and blinding for an hour (plus)
     
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  18. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Yep it is a pain, kind of wish i'd known that!! ;) :D

    I got a long 13mm socket and a medium extension, and welded a box end spanner on the end, weird contraption it was, but it just fitted, luckily the bolt didn't put up much of a fight!! :confused::D
     
  19. monkfish24

    monkfish24 Well-Known Member

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    What is access like from underneath? I have a pit that I can work from if it's just as easy for me to get in from under the car?
     
  20. siddeley

    siddeley Member

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    Hi.. for me.wheel off, arch liner out and long socket....worked fine.
    Regards
     
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