Problems after changing gearbox oil

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by the way did you use the Rover MTF94 or some cheaper aftermarket labelled MTF94 cos it's not the same.... but as i said if u used the EP90 for many miles the box is worn

the R380 is so sensitive that not every MTF94 is good for it as there are some sh*t replacements like e.g this one MTF 94 Gear Oil Rover Honda Landrover 5 ltrs | eBay , which they say "meets the requiremets of Rover MTF94" but i doubt that as i tried it and drained it out after two days, the only perfectly suitable is the original STC9158, and as long as the box is not worn this one makes the difference... happened to me
 
MTF94 is a Texaco product that Rover use, as in the link above other oil companies and independent oil blenders such as Comma produce MTF to the same spec as Texaco's and even better, remembering that MTF94 has bee around at least 20 years that I know of.

Castrol, Mobil and Amsoil are just a few major oil producers that do MTF. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ission-fluid-5w-30/?page=/storefront/mtf.aspx
 
sierrafery said:
by the way did you use the Rover MTF94 or some cheaper aftermarket labelled MTF94 cos it's not the same.... but as i said if u used the EP90 for many miles the box is worn

the R380 is so sensitive that not every MTF94 is good for it as there are some sh*t replacements like e.g this one MTF 94 Gear Oil Rover Honda Landrover 5 ltrs | eBay , which they say "meets the requiremets of Rover MTF94" but i doubt that as i tried it and drained it out after two days, the only perfectly suitable is the original STC9158, and as long as the box is not worn this one makes the difference... happened to me
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I've never used ep90 in the main gearbox
 
tom1979 said:
I've never used ep90 in the main gearbox
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that's what i understood from your post #5 in this thread
tom1979 said:
I have always used EP90 in gearbox and axles then ATF in transfer boxes but thought I'd try doing it properly for once
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what i told about the original MTF94 is from my own experience and i tried at least 6 kind of oils without joy ...but maybe it's just my gearbox so sensitive:rolleyes:

we are not speaking here about general MTF made by several companies, it's about Rover MTF94 which is a special 75W80 not else, i had too many bad experiences based on the advertising of those who ar selling theyr products and stating "replaces the Rover MTF94" fortunately i have a friend with a tractor who used it as fuel after i drained them out from my gearbox in no time... the worst gearchanges were at low temps which might not be an issue in UK so i won't start a debate on this, what's certain for me is that the R380 loves the Rover MTF94 most, compare the specs of other "replacements' with this and you'll see http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/ROVER MTF.pdf
 
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Going to put ATF in tomorrow but think it's the synchro going and probably not oil related as it's only one gear and doesn't improve or worsen as it warms up
 
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tom1979 said:
Going to put ATF in tomorrow but think it's the synchro going and probably not oil related as it's only one gear and doesn't improve or worsen as it warms up
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obviously you have worn baulk rings ,but oil can effect how bad you notice it as baulk ring has to act as a brake on the gears whilst lining up the dog teeth for synchro hub to slide over ,if new oil choice wouldnt matter but as things wear different oils ie mtf or dexron can make a noticeable difference
 
jamesmartin said:
obviously you have worn baulk rings ,but oil can effect how bad you notice it as baulk ring has to act as a brake on the gears whilst lining up the dog teeth for synchro hub to slide over ,if new oil choice wouldnt matter but as things wear different oils ie mtf or dexron can make a noticeable difference
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Got the vehicle back last week after the gearbox was refurbished but the problem persists. With engine off or vehicle stationary you can move through all gears smoothly it is only when moving that 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 4th become stiff. Could it be a clutch issue?
 
stiff lever is a separate fault to stiff gear engagement ,former lever is stiff through all its movement ,latter only when you try to engage gear ,have a look at lower gear lever where the 2 bias springs rub ,if grooved weld up and grind smooth ,if not that remove gear box top and check ball in yoke
 
jamesmartin said:
stiff lever is a separate fault to stiff gear engagement ,former lever is stiff through all its movement ,latter only when you try to engage gear ,have a look at lower gear lever where the 2 bias springs rub ,if grooved weld up and grind smooth ,if not that remove gear box top and check ball in yoke
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Thanks James do you have any photos of what to look for?
 
jamesmartin said:
no and probably wouldnt be able to put them up if i had ,but wear where springs rub is obvious
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Ok thanks for your help. I will try and take some future reference.

You mentioned baulk rings before but I would assume that these would have been checked/replaced in the refurbishment
 
presumably ,or at least id hope they are nearly allways worn and not worth refitting,but they are indicative of lever only been stiff to get into gear and lever been smooth and free between the gears ie fore /aft until gear is reached
 
tom1979 said:
No for once I looked in the book and used 75w-90 GL5 in transfer box and same in axles.

I have always used EP90 in gearbox and axles then ATF in transfer boxes but thought I'd try doing it properly for once
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You want GL4 in the LT230 - GL5 has additives which erode phosphor bronze bearings.
 
I tend to follow the general rule of

LT77 - ATF Dexron 3
R380 - MTF94
LT230 and everywhere else - EP90 GL4 Mineral

Sounds like you need to strip the top end of your gearbox down Tom, it usually doesnt get touched by reconditioners.
 
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