Problem fitting egr blanking kit.

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wickford90

wickford90

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,623
Location
wickford essex
Few things giving me greif.
What size allen key to remove 2 bolts from pipe under exhaust, they don't want to budge any ideas . Have got set of metric and proper imperial hex keys, they are either just to big or small.
Also i've been led to believe there is a butterfly valve inside the unit,mine aint got one?
Lastly i've taken the old one off, should the manifold have a thick coating of black crap lining the inside.
 
update . just put original egr back on , can not for the life of me get those two hex bolts out , i've knobed one nut up aint going to touch the other. if you know an easy way that a ham fisted dickhead can do it please let me know.
or if you can do it and your not a million miles from Wickford essex i'll bring it to you and grease your palms with cash. about to order two new bolts.
 
i think there a 5mm allen bolt, but you really need an allen socket and extension bar should come out easy then
 
used a 5mm allen socket but it seemed a tad to small, maybe i did'nt get it in straight . did'nt use extension bar maybe thats what balls up the nut . still waiting for einstein to post an answer on how to remove said bolt
 
So you're having trouble getting the blanking plate off the front face of the exhaust manifold?
I removed the air-con compressor or the idler pulley (depending on what spec your engine is) and gave the bolts a good soak in plus gas overnight. Then I got my trusty mapp gas torch out and warmed up the two bolts for a few minutes. Sometimes it works if you try to tighten them a tad before undoing. I fitted a socket drive hex key and they eventually came round to my way of thinking. When I removed the blanking plate 9 months later it came of easily.
When I did my mate's one I had to grind the heads off the bolts with a Dremmel tool as they were seized solid. Strangely though once the heads had gone the remaining studs came out with a pair of pliers. I replaced the bolts and used copper grease in the hope that if we have to get them off again next time they will come out a lot easier.

The early EGR valve bodies (EU2 emmission spec) did not have butterflies - just a single piston type valve. The later EU3 engines have the piston and butterfly.

Yes your inlet manifold will have a nasty layer of black gunge from the EGR. Even when the EGR is working properly it pumps this crap into the manifold. Just think what has been going into your engine. Without the EGR the manifold should stay nice and clean.

There is no easy way to clean the manifold other than taking it off and setting to work with various wire brushes and solvents etc. Dont use caustic soda or oven cleaner as it dissolves the aluminium. Ask me how I know - I dare you. I heated the manifold with a blowtorch to burn off most of the oily crap leaving a powdery carbon which I then brushed out. Dont get carried away with the blow torch or you risk melting the manifold. Just enough heat to get the oil to burn off then plenty of elbow grease. I picked up a used manifold on eBay for a tenner so I had a clean one ready to go on staright away.
 
thanks i'll give it a go in the morning. bit dubious about cutting the head off knackered bolt in case it wont come out , then i'm really in ****e.
 
I'd give the soaking and heat a go before you start cutting. If that dont work then carefully cut the head off the bolt, remove the EGR pipe, screw a nut on the stud, weld the nut to the stud, undo the nut and voila the stud comes out. Or it shears off and you need to start drilling etc. Its a tough one but not the end of the world.

Cant remember if its a 5mm or 5.5mm hex but I know you can get better leverage with a socket hex. If the hex bolt is completely buggered you could try clamping some mole grips on the head and giving them a twist. You can also get some small sockets from Halfrauds that work on rounded nuts and bolts. The tighter you turn them the harder they grip. Dont forget the manifold is cast iron so dont go banging it around too much or it will crack.

Persevere as the end result means a clean breathing engine.
 
thanks for your tips much appreciated . will try all that tomorrow. welding nuts on studs!!!!!!!! do i sound like i come from up north , that sounds like a job for a bloke with big hands.
 
wickford90 said:
thanks for your tips much appreciated . will try all that tomorrow. welding nuts on studs!!!!!!!! do i sound like i come from up north , that sounds like a job for a bloke with big hands.
Click to expand...
Cheeky bar steward.
I was born and bred in Camberwell - South London.
I get the shakes when I go north of the Thames.

Just been down my shed and checked the size of the hex on a brand new bolt and the perfect fit is a 5.1mm hex but normal people use a 5mm. I dont suppose anybody else is as sad as me. I have every size hex key in 0.1mm steps from 1mm up to 13mm. My mate is a tool maker and I get his cast offs. Shame to throw them away.

I tried to find an imperial match but got fed up sorting through hundreds of allen keys as the imperial ones are just chucked in a box and not sorted like the metric ones.
 
thats why the 5mm hex felt a bit wobbly. did not know you could get them in fractions of a mm. i tried imperial ones but they were no better. would'nt say your sad just well prepared. your not a boy scout are ya
 
All sorted , no cutting off nuts no welding, gently tapped a 9mm ring spanner over balls up bolt then tapped off and on a few times until it sat on tight , used
big ring spanner as lever came off a treat.
 
wickford90 said:
All sorted , no cutting off nuts no welding, gently tapped a 9mm ring spanner over balls up bolt then tapped off and on a few times until it sat on tight , used
big ring spanner as lever came off a treat.
Click to expand...
Excellent. Use some copper grease when you put the new bolts in and they should come out easy if you need to in the future.
All thats left now is to clean the crap out of the intercooler, hoses, and inlet manifold. Nice messy job. Enjoy.
 
good point well made. i'm just wondering what nightmares await me in taking off the manifold. I dont mind the dirty bits, but when i do a job on the 90 it turns into three more. how the hell would i go about cleaning the intercooler. dont tell me, take it out?
 
Get a spare manifold off eBay and clean it up first. I got one from a 2002 engine for a tenner plus postage. Then its a half hour job to swap them over. You wont even need a new gasket if you're careful. Keep your old manifold as a spare because they have been known to crack.

While you have the manifold off take out each of the glow plugs, test then refit them with some anti seize compound. Makes it much easier to get them out later with the manifold in place if you need to change them.

Take the intercooler hoses off and wipe them out with some rags - job done.

The intercooler is a bit of a pain but I swished some parafin through it, then some paint thinners until it came out clean. Dry it out and refit. I warmed the thing up with a blow torch to evaporate the thinners before refitting it. If you do this be careful or you'll have no eyebrows.

Then you know the engine is getting nothing but fresh clean air.
 
o.k. i'm on the look out for another manifold , half hour refit ! i can cope with that.
test glow plugs? , for what and what with ?. i think i can cope with that as well. take off hose and wipe clean, piece of ****. parafin, paint thinners and blow torch , is'nt that the recipe for weapons of mass destructions. if i don't end up in the burns unit i will let you know how i get on.
thanks for you time fellas
 
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