Preventative Maintenance Tip- Window mechanisms

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Dann

Active Member
Posts
545
Location
Middle Earth
I am amazed at the amount of cash spent on replacing window lift assemblies.

Why do they fail?

a. A small proportion have motor failures.

b. The vast majority fail due to the bowden cables snapping.

Why do the bowden cables snap?

The cables become corroded due to the unavoidable rainwater seepage into the door voids past the sealing strips at the base of the window glass.

Over time the side channels/runners which guide the glass as it is raised or lowered become contaminated and hardened this causes excessive friction and therefore the window lift motor has to work harder, the driver notices that the window seems to take longer to close/open. Apart from the additional strain on the window lift motor the bowden cable also comes under increased strain. Eventually something has got to give and this is usually the corroded bowden cable.

What's the answer?

Maintenance.

Remove door trim panel

Carefully 'Stanley knife' an access slot in the plastic membrane

Operate the window raise/lower function and observe how the mechanism operates (obviously you should not put your fingers inside the door void during this procedure) You should see the nylon blocks sliding up and down in the mild steel guide channels. You should also observe the bowden cables racing over their pulleys. If on close inspection you find serious corrosion in any part of the bowden cable then any further attempts at maintenance would be pointless until the cable is replaced. Mix some clean engine oil with grease in a suitable container and using a small paintbrush lubricate the mild steel channels as far as you can reach.
Now lubricate the bowden cable by raising/lowering the window in small increments and applying the lubricant as each successive section of cable is revealed.

Window runner maintenance

With the window glass fully lowered, impregnate a small piece of sponge with a good quality plastic bumper colour restoration spray and apply this to the extreme edges of the glass also spray this product sparingly into the window side runner felt channels.

Finally gaffer tape the cut slots in the plastic membrane and replace the door panel.
 
All you have to do is remove the door panel, lower one on a 3dr.

Cut through the plastic, in fact remove the plastic membrane and refit with the stuff they use in gardens centres/poly tunnels its around 200microns.

Look for the outlets attached to the cable spindles, spray in some grease into the outlets, run window up and down a few times = job done.

The cables will go eventually, LR should have made them stainless in the first place.

Thats not a bad site:
VWP motorcycle parts 3

Only thing is, it must be related to NASA, it has a mix of metric and imperial units (daft!) Plus if you look at the attachment below, the hex lug shows the restricted size of the smaller lug. I dont see any equivalent lug in the above site.
 
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  • Window and Brake cables.jpg
    Window and Brake cables.jpg
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  • Window cable Lug Head on.jpg
    Window cable Lug Head on.jpg
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  • Window cable lug side view.jpg
    Window cable lug side view.jpg
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Thanks Ming I do honestly value your opinions. For those who have suffered bowden cable failures you might contact a company called 'Catton wire' in the west midlands. This company can supply all manner of Bowden type cable and fittings and in fact supply an amazing clutch and accelerator cable repair kit to the major UK breakdown organisations. This is not 'SPAM' I have used and trained others to use their kit and found it to be 100%, beyond that I have no link with this company. With reference to my preventative maintenance guide I have yet to replace any window lift mechanisms and the oldest of our flanders just had its 7th birthday at 160k miles.
 
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