Freelander 1 Passenger's side door window motor gets only 10V, won't move - SOLVED

Hi guys and gals. Hope you're having a great day!

I'm having issues with my wife's 2004 Freelander TD4 - specifically the front right window won't work. To keep it short, here's a list of what I've done so far:

- tested window regulator - looks great, brand new even
- tested window motor - same as above.
- window regulator and motor work perfectly when supplied EXTERNAL VOLTAGE from a car battery. Window rolls up and down just fine.
- greased the window regulator
- cleaned the connectors with contact cleaner, a sharp screwdriver and compressed air
- tested fuses (25A ones in the glovebox) - all work fine
- tested voltage to the window motor's connector with my multimeter.... with the ignition on, not touching any buttons, I'm getting 0.2V. When I press the window switch I get only 10.5v...

Has anyone encountered this issue before? Is this a bad relay? Is the window switch box bad? All the other windows work fine and get 12.6V... Please help.

Switch should be good as it gives some voltage. You'd need to check what voltage comes from control module, unsure of location may be different in 2 or 4 door models.
Is the 10v with motor connected?
Or could be bad joint in cable to controller.
Wiring diagram is available, search on here for rave download, needs win7 I think. Or Google images gets some decent wiring diagrams.
Is the 10v on up and down, 2 wires and the controller swaps pos and neg for direction. You could try one side of connector to known good earth or good pos to see if it's one cable giving an issue.
Sometimes worth checking results with working window, although in my experience that renders both knackered!

Hi

Try to use a different switch to see if it's not a simple switch problem.
You said the motor is working by giving it 12v from the battery, I presume you don't put 12V on the connector but directly on the motor ... so check the small cable between the motor and the connector ...

J_D said:

Switch should be good as it gives some voltage. You'd need to check what voltage comes from control module, unsure of location may be different in 2 or 4 door models.
Is the 10v with motor connected?
Or could be bad joint in cable to controller.
Wiring diagram is available, search on here for rave download, needs win7 I think. Or Google images gets some decent wiring diagrams.
Is the 10v on up and down, 2 wires and the controller swaps pos and neg for direction. You could try one side of connector to known good earth or good pos to see if it's one cable giving an issue.
Sometimes worth checking results with working window, although in my experience that renders both knackered!

Click to expand...

10.5V w/o motor, measuring straight from the connector, not plugged in. My wife's car has a switch box in the door - not independent switches like the non facelift models. There's also no "window ECU" as far as I know on this car.

Alteredtech said:

Hi

Try to use a different switch to see if it's not a simple switch problem.
You said the motor is working by giving it 12v from the battery, I presume you don't put 12V on the connector but directly on the motor ... so check the small cable between the motor and the connector ...

Click to expand...

Like I said above, this is a facelift and has all four window switches and the window lock on the same PCB / device, mounted on the driver's arm rest in the door - not independent switches like the non facelift freelander - and unfortunately I don't have anther switch box to test... nor can I borrow one - our other landy is a NFL with independent windows switches and all my friends who drive a freelander also have NFLs (non facelift)...

If it turns out to be the window switch box I'll have to order another one, and I'd like to be sure it's causing the problem before firing the parts cannon.

This is what my wife's car switch box looks like:


Also - if anyone has a part number for the plastic piece (LHD) - the trim - it fits into - or even the whole assembly like in the picture, please leave a reply, ours is badly cracked (the plastic trim) and I'd like to replace it.

kanecvr said:

10.5V w/o motor, measuring straight from the connector, not plugged in. My wife's car has a switch box in the door - not independent switches like the non facelift models. There's also no "window ECU" as far as I know on this car.



Like I said above, this is a facelift and has all four window switches and the window lock on the same PCB / device, mounted on the driver's arm rest in the door - not independent switches like the non facelift freelander - and unfortunately I don't have anther switch box to test... nor can I borrow one - our other landy is a NFL with independent windows switches and all my friends who drive a freelander also have NFLs (non facelift)...

If it turns out to be the window switch box I'll have to order another one, and I'd like to be sure it's causing the problem before firing the parts cannon.

This is what my wife's car switch box looks like:
View attachment 274518

Also - if anyone has a part number for the plastic piece - the trim - it fits into - or even the whole assembly like in the picture, please leave a reply, ours is badly cracked (the plastic trim) and I'd like to replace it.

Click to expand...

You have one switch on the passenger side, and one in the driver side, both don't move the window ?

Alteredtech said:

You have one switch on the passenger side, and one in the driver side, both don't move the window ?

Click to expand...

Sorry, not a native engilsh speaker, not sure I understood what you mean. All widows work except for front right. All window motors get 12.6 except for front right that gets 10.5v. I haven't tested with the motor connected (no room to clip my multimeter on while the motor is connected) but if I did I'm sure voltage would drop to nearly 0, otherwise the window would roll down very slowly (tested with a bench power supply set at 10v and a spare window regulator).

I can't swap switches to test because on the back of that switch box pictured above there are two different sized connectors. After taking the switch box apart I determened that the larger connector handles both front windows as well as the window lock circuit, and the second smaller connector handles the rear windows and the backlight for the switches.

J_D said:

Switch should be good as it gives some voltage. You'd need to check what voltage comes from control module, unsure of location may be different in 2 or 4 door models.
Is the 10v with motor connected?
Or could be bad joint in cable to controller.
Wiring diagram is available, search on here for rave download, needs win7 I think. Or Google images gets some decent wiring diagrams.
Is the 10v on up and down, 2 wires and the controller swaps pos and neg for direction. You could try one side of connector to known good earth or good pos to see if it's one cable giving an issue.
Sometimes worth checking results with working window, although in my experience that renders both knackered!

Click to expand...

The car is a 2004 - I think the control module is built into the window switch box (see the picture I posted above). It doesn't have a dedicated control module like the non facelift freelanders do - at least as far as I know, I could be wrong...

Here are pics of the window switch box and the connectors:

From the switch, which I now know is the controller,
one motor is Orange/Red and Orange/blue
the other motor is Blue and Red
Check resistance of cable from switch plug to motor plug.
The wiring diagram I was looking at was for a 2001 model. But only shows front windows so do confirm the correct cable by colour.
It's possible, with the switch connected to get sewing pins into the terminals (or through the cable), so you could check for power with being connected, be careful not to short anything!
If resistance OK and colours match by putting pos and neg on the cables will do what the switch does and window will go up and down, just stop when window is up or motor will burn out.

Is the Button on the passenger side working ?

J_D said:

Switch should be good as it gives some voltage. You'd need to check what voltage comes from control module, unsure of location may be different in 2 or 4 door models.
Is the 10v with motor connected?
Or could be bad joint in cable to controller.
Wiring diagram is available, search on here for rave download, needs win7 I think. Or Google images gets some decent wiring diagrams.
Is the 10v on up and down, 2 wires and the controller swaps pos and neg for direction. You could try one side of connector to known good earth or good pos to see if it's one cable giving an issue.
Sometimes worth checking results with working window, although in my experience that renders both knackered!

Click to expand...

Ok I found the issue - @J_D was right. The blue wire that goes from the switch box to the motor was damaged. I spliced it and the window rolls up and down correctly now.

Thank you everyone for your help!