Paint finish on bumpers p38

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mystic.bertie

New Member
Posts
91
the rangie i just bought, 2000 p38 model, has a different paint finish on the bumpers and they look as though they have been repainted, can someone tell me if the finish should be the same as the rest of the paint work or is the finish on the bumpers meant to be different.

see pic of mine for example. i may end up getting them painted properly

how does it look to you guys, its not that noticable to be honest


IMG_2114.jpg



IMG_2148.jpg
 
a good way to tell is lay beside the bumper and look up, you may notice a lightning of the paint on the undersides, if it has this then its been re painted!
 
a good way to tell is lay beside the bumper and look up, you may notice a lightning of the paint on the undersides, if it has this then its been re painted!


i dont doubt they have been painted, the blue paint on the rubber seals prove that, it just i would have thought the finish should be a match for the wings and bonnet etc but its clearly a lot duller indicating a diy job
 
I was going to ask about the painted bumpers... Can a non painted bumper be painted ok or did they produce non textured bumpers specificaly for painted Range Rovers??
 
I can paint as i have all the equipment at my disposal. Just didnt know if the bumpers differ between painted and unpainted items.
As on other cars some of the poverty spec bumpers are absolute pigs to paint propperly because of the texture of them.
Its good to know i can go over the stock black plastic bumpers as i think that will be a nice enhancement to my new rangie. :D
 
the rangie i just bought, 2000 p38 model, has a different paint finish on the bumpers and they look as though they have been repainted, can someone tell me if the finish should be the same as the rest of the paint work or is the finish on the bumpers meant to be different.

see pic of mine for example. i may end up getting them painted properly

how does it look to you guys, its not that noticable to be honest


IMG_2114.jpg



IMG_2148.jpg

This is caused by two things, the painter has not thinned the lacquer enough. Or he has gone over too quickly and not gained a wet coat. Or a combination of both. If the lacquer is thick enough you should be able to get a finish by rubbing down with 1200 grit wet or dry with plenty of water with a hint of washing up liquid in it. Then 'T' cutting back to finish
 
1200 is a bit harsh in my view, we tend to use 2000 microfine for final flatting before buffing. get some 2000 and go over it till you get a flat finish then polish it up with t-cut, it will shine like a pin.
 
1200 is a bit harsh in my view, we tend to use 2000 microfine for final flatting before buffing. get some 2000 and go over it till you get a flat finish then polish it up with t-cut, it will shine like a pin.

Don't have a problem with that comment. But looking at the finish it just depends how long you want to be rubbing for. 1200 and some G3 to finish would give same results but quicker. You could always use some micofine after 1200 and before G3 if you really wanted to.
 
it may be a hell of a job going over both bumpers in this way

there is a few dodgy bodywork areas, the seller claimed it did not have any bodywork repairs done but its obvious it has and they have been done by an amatuer and not done properly thru the insurance for some reason.

the front passenger wing has a poorly formed wheel arch and bad sandpaper marks beneath the paint, i was going to buy a wing from a breakers the same colour and fit it.

the back wing has been painted poorly and 'mopped' it has ashiny finish but the paint looks a bit distorted and not as straight as the original paintwork also the tailgate has the same dull resprayed paintwork.
 
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