P38A P38A clutch alignment tool

Grrrrrr · Jun 16, 2017

As per the title really. Anyone got any recommendations? Also, does the rear crank seal come with a plastic alignement cone thingy or can I get one of them somewhere cheap too?

tomcat59alan · Jun 16, 2017

Pity you are not closer Grrrrrr, I have a first motion shaft from an old gearbox.When I did the clutch on the old Clio in Fuerteventura I didn't have a dummy shaft and having been in the trade too many years I thought I had see everything.My neighbour (who looks after the fire appliances on the airfield) came with a tube of superglue and stuck the drive plate to the pressure plate, centralizing it by eye. Worked a treat.

Wazzajnr · Jun 16, 2017

On my old fords, I had an old socket with a piece of 15mm copper pipe stuffed in the end. Perfect fit. Like the superglue idea though!

tomcat59alan · Jun 17, 2017

When the drive plate on my Classic fell apart in the middle of France,many years ago I whittled a dummy shaft from a small tree branch.I had a week's wait for the new clutch to be delivered so I had time to fill, there is only so much fishing, eating fabulous food and drinking one can do.

Grrrrrr · Jun 17, 2017

An old input shaft would be perfect. I think Laser do some sort of generic stepped piece of plastic but no idea what size I need for the P38. Guess I can measure it when it is out.

tomcat59alan · Jun 17, 2017

Grrrrrr said:
An old input shaft would be perfect. I think Laser do some sort of generic stepped piece of plastic but no idea what size I need for the P38. Guess I can measure it when it is out.

I have one of them and mine is infinitely adjustable,, cones on a screw thread open out the collars to fit the crank bearing and drive plate centre.

ovalandrover · Jun 17, 2017

My ford F250 has two clutch center plates so imagine how hard they are to line upwhen you dont have a first motion shaft

tomcat59alan · Jun 17, 2017

ovalandrover said:
My ford F250 has two clutch center plates so imagine how hard they are to line upwhen you dont have a first motion shaft

So it's not just R/R 's that like to mess with your head

Grrrrrr · Jun 17, 2017

tomcat59alan said:
I have one of them and mine is infinitely adjustable,, cones on a screw thread open out the collars to fit the crank bearing and drive plate centre.

Sounds just the job. Make and model?

Grrrrrr · Jun 17, 2017

I got the gearbox and clutch out today with a bit of help from MrGorsky. PITA on stands with a trolley jack and axle stands as opposed to a four poster and a transmission jack. Still, we got the gearbox out (transfer box still attached). Had to take the inlet manifold off to get the starter motor off. And just to top it off one of the bell housing bolts had reacted with the ally and oxidised itself in place and so sheared off when trying to undo. So, got to get the stub out before reassembly. Need a new bolt as well.

I can see no sign of an oil leak so looks like the rear crank seal is good. Also, the clutch friction plate looks clean (bar old friction material) so that cannot be the reason for the slipping type behaviour. The clutch was close to the bottom of the grooves so definitely could do with replacing. Says "Made in France" on it. Not sure if that makes it Valeo or not? Anyway, I have concluded the fingers and release bearing may just have been tired and couldn't handle full torque. Does that sound reasonable? Guess maybe @wammers and @jamesmartin would know best?

Took some pictures. Can anyone see anything untoward?

jamesmartin · Jun 17, 2017

its rare oil contaminates the clutch , yours has been spinning for sure, it wouldnt be release bearing more like weak clutch cover

Grrrrrr · Jun 17, 2017

jamesmartin said:
its rare oil contaminates the clutch , yours has been spinning for sure, it wouldnt be release bearing more like weak clutch cover

That'll be the thing with the metal fingers? That's what I was hoping. I'll order the full set and hopefully that'll cure it.

F*ck knows how we'll get the damn thing straight to push the gearbox back in. My adapter made from an old drive shaft is leaning to one side in the trolley-jack saddle and the unit points slightly upwards with the transfer box on the back. Might have to take the latter off and make some stabilisers!

Thanks for advice, James. Really appreciate the advice.

jamesmartin · Jun 17, 2017

Grrrrrr said:
That'll be the thing with the metal fingers? That's what I was hoping. I'll order the full set and hopefully that'll cure it.

F*ck knows how we'll get the damn thing straight to push the gearbox back in. My adapter made from an old drive shaft is leaning to one side in the trolley-jack saddle and the unit points slightly upwards with the transfer box on the back. Might have to take the latter off and make some stabilisers!

Thanks for advice, James. Really appreciate the advice.

its not so bad with the fact you bolt the front bell housing up first

brianp38dse · Jun 18, 2017

@Grrrrrr fit the bell housing part with all the clutch arm first, then when you put the box in get someone else to push the clutch pedal down as you push the box in and that will let it all line up, worked on mine the other year.

Grrrrrr · Jun 18, 2017

brianp38dse said:
@Grrrrrr fit the bell housing part with all the clutch arm first, then when you put the box in get someone else to push the clutch pedal down as you push the box in and that will let it all line up, worked on mine the other year.

That's what I did last time but you should see the angle this thing is it! Think I am going to have to incline the engine a bit.

Grrrrrr · Jun 18, 2017

Am I right in thinking the input shaft starts at 15mm and then goes up to 24mm for the splines?

Grrrrrr · Jun 18, 2017

Oh, and any way to test the DMF while I am in there?

tomcat59alan · Jun 18, 2017

jamesmartin said:
its rare oil contaminates the clutch , yours has been spinning for sure, it wouldnt be release bearing more like weak clutch cover

Agree,it's been getting hot in there looking at the blueing on the flywheel. Just been into the garage too look for the alignment tool Grrrrrr but its like everyone else's, you cannot find a bloody thing. I think it was by Franklin but not sure.I would take the t/box off,it's only 6 bolts and fit the g/box first,you will find the extra weight will angle everything to make it easy to refit it.

tomcat59alan · Jun 18, 2017

Grrrrrr said:
Am I right in thinking the input shaft starts at 15mm and then goes up to 24mm for the splines?

I couldn't find my micrometer either.I must get around to clearing it. I manage to do a job and leave the tools in the front of the garage,then the same with the next job etc until you cannot get to things at the back. Getting old and tired.

MrGorsky · Jun 18, 2017

tomcat59alan said:
... I would take the t/box off,it's only 6 bolts and fit the g/box first,you will find the extra weight will angle everything to make it easy to refit it.

I think we're going to have to do that, or work out a way of strapping the rear of the engine so we can bend in downwards. Doing the G'box separately will also give us less weight to deal with, there's little enough room under there as it is!

P38A P38A clutch alignment tool

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