P38A P38A clutch alignment tool

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One way to to make your own tool is to find a shaft that fits the slave bearing perfectly. The wrap insulation tape around the shaft until it fits perfectly in the clutch plate. I've done it on a merc sprinter and a coach and its been spot on.
 
@stustrong . This DMF. 1 tooth travel? Mine turns quite a bit of slack then starts to "bite". If I then turn the flywheel by hand I can just about turn it a further tooth. I am guessing all that slack before it bit shouldn't be there?
 
Grrrr not usually my drifter had 2 teeth of movement and it was my daily after 8 drift days and 80k on the road it was still quite and felt good. That 235k engine and box is living in another skid car as it was and still silent.

The tooth of slack will be nothing no feeling at all then you'll get the pressure on it.

I'm currently at the 325tds I'm taking for spares and it's 1tooth of no resistance then there's one tooth with heaps of pressure turning it
 
The engine is pretty well balanced on its mountings just put a chock of wood under front of sump to tip it back a bit, had the box off mine twice now in last 8 years and its got to come off again because dmf gone and clutch slipping.
 
Making up an alignment tool isn't rocket science - as has been said find/make a shaft which nicely fits the spigot bearing and then build it up with tape to equally nicely fit the splines of the driven plate and off you go, taking your time and using a torch or good handlamp to see clearly that its centred.
 
When I have done 4x4 transmissions on the deck I found it useful to have two trolley jacks - that way you can perfectly align the input shaft to the centre line of the crank - using the rear one to adjust the box up and down slightly. I've also used a ratchet strap with one end on the 'box and the other attached to the front axle or similar and used it to gradually pull the box into place incrementally - reduces the amount of industrial language - it also stops the box going anywhere whilst angles are being assessed.
 
DMF f*cked then.

Yes, tipped the engine back to get at the top bolts round the bell housing. Trouble is the viscous fan starts to hit top of its housing. I could take the viscous off but that means draining some coolant to get the top hoses off. Not going to be much left on the car shortly!
 
Never had any problems getting to the starter and bell housing bolts, did you not split at box and bellhousing first.
 
DMF f*cked then.

Yes, tipped the engine back to get at the top bolts round the bell housing. Trouble is the viscous fan starts to hit top of its housing. I could take the viscous off but that means draining some coolant to get the top hoses off. Not going to be much left on the car shortly!
Auto box I ended up leaving the viscous housing loose and undoing the top hose as when it titled that bit more it looked stretched
 
Had a quick look for parts. That DMF is f*ck off expensive! Check the eBay link. No review of the product. Anyone had any dealings with the seller? Seems odd that the whole kit is cheaper than the flywheel alone from other places? Really LUK? I cannot be having with cheap Chinese copies.

DMF = LUK - ERR5205 or 415006810

Clutch Kit BMW TD (Valeo) STC50512VALEO (contains Clutch friction plate, Pressure plate, Release bearing)

This kit (part numbers 415006810 and 624213300) seems to have the lot?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-RANGE-ROVER-P38-2-5-DT-DSE-LUK-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-CLUTCH-COVER-KIT-1994-2002/161409511801?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=43782&meid=96331f37062344bbb708f1c3ca107697&pid=100011&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=130640551954

New spiral pins = Clutch Fork Roll Pin P38 2.5TD & V8 (Genuine) FTC1692LR
Spigot bearing = Crankshaft Rear Spigot Bearing STC2079

Maybe replace Gearbox Mounts P38 (Genuine)? ANR262

Anyone got any reliable outlets for LUK? I know about Island-4x4.
 
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Whatever you plump for it won't be as good as what it left the factory with, even if it's OE.
OFF (original factory fitted) is always superior to what I term second or third gen parts, even over a LR parts counter because OFF needed to last min. 3 years whereby LR counter part is 1 year warranty and likely to be fitted to a vehicle that's entered the realms of poor man owner and will likely change hands very often thus negating the need to finely hone a part to last a proper distance. Treat all parts as not likely to be as good as OFF.
Luk are a big name, common fitment across many premium marques.
Valeo also a big name but do they make DMFs?

Is it LG or Sony who make the majority of LCD/LED screens found across the £ spectrum of telly's?

Thankfully I don't ever have to make the call, I drive autos exclusively.
 
Whatever you plump for it won't be as good as what it left the factory with, even if it's OE.
OFF (original factory fitted) is always superior to what I term second or third gen parts, even over a LR parts counter because OFF needed to last min. 3 years whereby LR counter part is 1 year warranty and likely to be fitted to a vehicle that's entered the realms of poor man owner and will likely change hands very often thus negating the need to finely hone a part to last a proper distance. Treat all parts as not likely to be as good as OFF.
Luk are a big name, common fitment across many premium marques.
Valeo also a big name but do they make DMFs?

Is it LG or Sony who make the majority of LCD/LED screens found across the £ spectrum of telly's?

Thankfully I don't ever have to make the call, I drive autos exclusively.

Valeo do make dual mass flywheels but not sure they make one for the P38. They also do conversion kits which I am SORELY tempted by but again, I do not know if they do them for the P38A. Their website is a heap of **** for finding stuff. See:

https://www.valeoservice.co.uk/en/transmission-systems
 
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