P38 imobiliser HELP PLEASE

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baffled

New Member
Posts
105
Location
Germany
Im a squaddie living in Germany. The Landrover garage here doesnt have a clue and the bill keeps mounting up. I have a 1995 range rover. looking at other posts I can see its an age old problem with them. I bought the car from another soldier out here. The battery went flat as the car had stood for a few months. So I did the normal and tried to jump it. Put the jump leads on and it asked for the key code. I put the code in and as I did the side light flashed away as it should on the dash. but no joy. after several attempts the panel read engine imobilised. I then left it for a while with the battery disconected and tried the key code again, still nothing. I then took it to the LR dealer here. The guy said it needs a new key fob. I bought a brand new one on ebay and sent it to him, still no joy. He then asked me for the sensor/relay that sits under the rear drivers side just beside the seat lock (the bit that lets you put the seat down) Still no joy. I can see this is an ongoing problem with them. Can anyone please help. I have a spare RR of the same year so spare parts are not a problem. Failing all this, is there a simple way to remove the imobiliser. Im not to bothered if I have to use the key to lock it. I just want it to start. Thank you any one who can help....
 
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It sounds like the key fob needs resyncing. Due to been stood so long with no powere the BECM will have lost synch. Try powering the car up again.
Close the bonnet and all doors, making sure all the doors are unlocked before hand.
Enter your EKA code. Then as you turn the key to unlock the drivers door press the unlock button at the same time.
Use your original key. Buying ones from Ebay will not work. They are coded to your vehicle and this cannot be changed.
This should resynch the fob to the car. Try locking and unlocking on the button. If it unlocks on the button then the immobaliser will also be off.
 
stop immediately. is it a petrol or diesel?

if its diesel then you won't have damaged anything but if its petrol you may have damaged the becm by putting the leads on the battery.

when jumping a petrol you need to put the - lead to the engine lifting hook on top of the engine or it may fry the becm(main computer)

firstly you need a fully charged battery or things can get a bit arkward. one the battery is on and connected read up on:

Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A

primarily these steps:

Make sure the doors, windows and bonnet/hood are closed, get out and lock the car again with the key. (Note: on 1996 and later models, you have to turn the key to the lock position four times for this step if the remote handset was not used to lock the vehicle). Then turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence. (At each step the side lamps warning light on the dash will light to show it has recognized the input).


To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.

you need to obtain this code from a reliable dealer!!!

to sync the ORIGINAL key, put it in the lock then press lock and turn the key in the lock direction. the the same for unlock and it will be sync'd.

tell us a bit more about the car, i.e fuel, year, spec?

the eka code for american spec cars is 1515, i doubt this will help you tho as it should be a euro spec car and require its unique code!

good luck
 
PANTS!!! That actually sounds like the problem because I did exactly that with the jump leads. (I didnt put the earth to the engine hook, I put it directly terminal to terminal) I collected the car from the dealer today and they did more than I thought. The car is now running but if its locked by the key, I then have to put the code in again then she will start. It is usable but im scared if there is a real problem hiding in there it may stop working miles from home. That said the car starts now. Does that mean the BECM is ok? Or can it still be fried but the car can still run? I am new to the RR rover stuff, when my disco imobiliser kicked in outside the bank I took out some fuses, slapped in a wire to the starter from the back of the key barrel and TADA!!! I wish the RR was that easy. Thank you for your help by the way, its hard out here in Germany when you dont speak the lingo... Its a 1995 4.6HSE.
 
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Sounds like the BECM is OK but the key fob is out of sink. Can you not lock and unlock with the FOB? Does the little red light light up when you press the buttons on the Fob?
 
Yes it does light up but im to scared to do it close to the car in case it all goes tits up again. I couldnt fully understand the german guy and what he was trying to tell me. All I know is he went to it, did the key code at the drivers door and it started. If I try to play at syncing the key fob will I kick in the immobilizer again? Thank you....
 
Leave the car unlocked, lock it with the fob, then unlock it again with the fob. Thats all I had to do on mine to re-synch it. There are some other things in the handbook about re-synching that varies according to year.
 
Mines a 96 DSE, and to resynch I put the key in the door lock and turn to unlcok, whilst pressing the unlock button.
 
baffled,

Hows things im based in gutersloh. I dont suppose you need a set of continental head lights, p38 as im moving back to the uk soon. also, when you get sorted get the car a good service, my p38 just cost me 4 grand for a new engine. And the fckers have still not give me my car back.

good luck
 
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