P38 help!

Hi ladies and guys, been told this is the place to be to sort my p38, it’s a 4.6 Thor 2000/2001 I have the ews sync check light on dash after a flat battery and apparently it need to be re synced, I am willing to offer beer tokens for anyone that could help me out, have just bought the car and have a very impatient wife wanting to drive it!

Thanks rob

I am not aware of an EWS Sync Light on the P38....There is obviously the Engine ECU Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator Lamp....

The EWS system was fitted to the L322 (EWS is German for something technical to do with immobilisers and the like!)

The P38 uses a BeCM to Engine ECU sync code to allow the vehicle to start....the BeCM and the Engine ECU talk to eachother, have a cup of tea then check that there stored codes are the same and if they are, they hold hands and off they go.....if they differ, they have an argument, split up, one gets the house and the other one is left holding the cat and a suitcase!

Now, there is also the EKA code (Emergency Key Access) and this is entered via a sequence of turns in the drivers door lock barrel.....if you are lucky the EKA code should be written on a card or in the owners manual....enter this and see if that remobilises the car....

Note, the EKA code and the engine/BeCM sync code are two seperate parts of the security system.....but one or both of them could easily be the issue.

Does the message centre on the dash say anything like: 'Press Remote' or 'Engine Disabled' or anything else?

If it turns out to be the ECU/BeCM sync that is required, this is going to take diagnostics to resync the codes..... Check out the section of this forum called LandyZone International Rescue.....this links to a map of members who have diagnostics and toolsd and can help out.....there may be one close to you!

Let us know if the message centre says anything and we can maybe go from there.

If you have no drivers handbook but you do have the EKA code then attached is an abridged description of the EKA entry process for your car.
Be aware, the microswitches on the drivers doorlock switchpack are prone to failing and you might need to replace the latch and the switches.
Good Luck.

Sorry my bad, I scanned it with a Snap on scanner and the code was 39 ews sync check

Just to confirm the scanner bought up this message not the dash, I have no messages other than windows and sunroof blah blah, originally the cars battery went flat and now just won’t fire up

Sounds like the Snap-On is just giving a generic description.....and would more than likely be BeCM to Engine ECU sync code issue.

The only choice if it is this, is to get it on Land Rover specific diagnostics and use it to re-sync the Engine ECU and BeCM....or a Syncmate (special tool made by Blackbox Solutions that will do the sync for you! - no affilation, just mentioning they exist!)

Check the LZIR map and see if there is anyone close to you who has the gear to help.

Can I assume you have a fully charged and healthy battery, as low battery output or weak/old batteries can cause a whole heap of issues on the P38...

I can confirm the battery is good and on charge at the moment, I’ve booked into harwoods for Tuesday but would rather give my cash to somebody other than the main stealers, worth a try I guess!!

Main stealers often struggle with the P38. You may be better looking for a good indy or as previously been said check LZ international rescue

Funny enough the Indys I’ve tried have said take it to harwoods, as they don’t use the old diagnostics often enough to warrant keeping them! Also just been told to take both batt terminals off and short them together?!

My local indy has had the the main stealer sending people to him as they were stumped. Luck of the draw really. I must be lucky round here having LR guys running there own garages

p38range said:

Just to confirm the scanner bought up this message not the dash, I have no messages other than windows and sunroof blah blah, originally the cars battery went flat and now just won’t fire up

Click to expand...

Does it turn over and not fire up? Or just do nothing?
If it has disabled the engine, it doesn't even turn over. If it is turning over, then you've passed the security stuff and maybe you have got a CPS/fuel/spark problem.

THe engine turns over but doesn’t fire up, I was under the impression that it will still turn over with the becm to ecu issue

One version of the P38 turns over but doesn't fire, the other doesn't turn over....I can never remember which is which though....

I’ve got fuel up to the rail, new cps, no spark and smells of fuel after a while so assume injectors are working

Whete abouts are you ??

Have you tried locking unlocking with the key only

When you get it going, try disconnecting your RF receiver if your battery keeps going flat.

Yes have tried with just the key it makes no difference, I’m in Worthing

You're in Worthing. The BECM God is just down the road. See Callrova or @Rick-the-Pick on here. You can use the envelope top right to start a conversation with him.

p38range said:

Funny enough the Indys I’ve tried have said take it to harwoods, as they don’t use the old diagnostics often enough to warrant keeping them! Also just been told to take both batt terminals off and short them together?!

Click to expand...

Harwoods used to be very good, long time since I left the area though.
If you are keeping the car, you may like to consider investing in diagnostic kit such as a Nanocom, then you can sort your own problems and save a fortune.
Shorting the battery leads together will do nothing.
Check the battery voltage when you are cranking the engine, low volts will play havoc.
Put the key in the drivers door lock, turn to lock if unlocked and press the unlock button while held in the unlock position, then turn the key to lock and press the lock button. Reverse the procedure if starting the the car locked. It probably will not work, but worth a try, I suspect you will need diagnostics for a security re-learn.

Datatek said:

Harwoods used to be very good, long time since I left the area though.
If you are keeping the car, you may like to consider investing in diagnostic kit such as a Nanocom, then you can sort your own problems and save a fortune.
Shorting the battery leads together will do nothing.
Check the battery voltage when you are cranking the engine, low volts will play havoc.
Put the key in the drivers door lock, turn to lock if unlocked and press the unlock button while held in the unlock position, then turn the key to lock and press the lock button. Reverse the procedure if starting the the car locked. It probably will not work, but worth a try, I suspect you will need diagnostics for a security re-learn.

Click to expand...

That is the method for syncing the fob will do nothing for BECM to ECM sync.