P38 abs

:frusty::frusty::decision:

Dimebag 666 said:

My concern was that, having read the accumulator is good for 20/30 depress's and my pump is activating every 5/10, there might be an issue with the pump also i.e. on the way out!

Click to expand...

There is no rule when it comes to accumulators. I've never heard of anyone getting 20 depressions to a pump run. If you're 'enjoying yourself' it's not unusual to have the pump run every two pedal presses.

Please, for the sake of your kid if for no other reason, take the advice given and sort your brakes out BEFORE THEY FAIL!!!!!!

Dimebag 666 said:

Should have been more clear, i get that i need to either replace the modulator or go with a repair kit...

My concern was that, having read the accumulator is good for 20/30 depress's and my pump is activating every 5/10, there might be an issue with the pump also i.e. on the way out! The last thing i want to do is replace that as well... obviously im wrong.

Excuse my concern but this is a family car, i drive my 15 month old daughter around in it so i want to be absoloutley certain i get it sorted!!!!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

20 to 30 pedal presses is what is needed to totaly de-pressurise the system before working on it. 5 to 10 pedal presses is I would say pretty normal. Even if the pump where to fail the brakes will still work although you will have to press bloody hard. If the modulator discs fail you will have NO BRAKES and it happens very suddenly

I got 20/30 depressions from rangerover.net, under ABS section, it says quote

" The system does not use the normal vacuum-powered booster found on most vehicles, but rather an electrically powered high pressure hydraulic pump with an accumulator which stores enough energy for 20-30 brake applicatios. These are common (and expensive) failure items. See ABS diagnosis and repair page for diagnostic procedures."

So you can see how i was hung up on it as this site comes highly recommended on this forum.

I have ordered my repair kit today, in the meantime the rangey stays off the road!

Thanks again for all the great and usefull advice.

So.... not good news.

rather than opting for a repair kit I decided to purchase a used modulator. I had it fitted by a local 4x4 specialist which made no difference. I contacted the guy I got it from ( range rover breakers) who assured me the part was fine, however he did send me another.

That one has now been fitted, brakes bled according to land rover spec, still no difference. If anything its worse.

I now have a really spongey pedal, it has to be depressed over half way down before brakes apply. Still clicks, pedal still kicks back!!!!!!!!!!!!

Im at a loose end £435 worse off too, WTF do i do now?

Dimebag 666 said:

Im at a loose end £435 worse off too, WTF do i do now?

Click to expand...

The kit costs about 40 quid delivered.

I removed my modulator, fitted the kit and bled the brakes (with help from the other half), took about six/seven hours, brake pedal now nice and solid.

You must use new brake from un-opened container (4 Litres Dot4), parts cost about 60.00 quid in all, plus labour...

Dimebag, check everything physically first before diagnosing an internal problem. You're cash down already, now comes the bit about real RR ownership... every owner after possibly the one who drove it out of the showroom will get their hands dirty and learn more about the greasy bits than they ever dreamed they'd even want to know!

I'd start with physically inspecting everything that can be inspected. Start at the brakes at each corner. How are the pads and discs, how are the calipers and guide pins and little rubber bucket seals? Then check the brake hoses. Any kinks, pinches or tears? Next check the actual pedal action and linkages. Your soft pedal and clicks could come from any of these places. Once your confident about all those you can revert to the modulator and master cylinder. Perhaps the master cylinder has a torn seal. I'm assuming your accumulator is fine since its new. It would seem you now own a couple of spare modulators. Why not get one on your kitchen table and actually take it apart. Its not just the little discs to worry about, all those little aluminium tubes are pretty fiddly and what if your 4x4 specialist isn't a landy specialist? You might be able to find that your spare is in good condition, at least you'll have the peace of mind of having seen for yourself, and you can consider swapping it back paying extra care to the connections. Lastly, use fresh brake fluid, drain, fill, bleed bleed bleed bleed bleed....... and bleed.

Good luck!

Just to add my twopeneth....

Never scrimp and save on two systems....Brakes and Steering....

As these two systems will save your life....the rest of the car can fall apart, breakdown or stop working, but Brakes and Steering will get you out of trouble.

Just my twopeneth....

Cheers guys...

I started originally by checking my calipers and discs, hoses too. There all fine. I bled the system 3 times over which had no effect. Thats how I ended up posting on here.

This supposed "specialst" is a #>@?%$* cowboy. The brakes are worse, when i got the motor up to 50 mph it started shaking about and when i got home i noticed smoke coming from front o/s wheel arch and a terrible smell like a burning clutch or something. Thought maybe the pads were binding but the disc was not hot?????

People on this forum have assured me its the mod??? I think i'll just order the kit, fit it to my old mod and pray that it finaly puts an end to this headache!!

I love my Rangey but right now i wish it would just catch fire so I could claim

Just took it out for a spin to see how it felt today....

When you depress the pedal, either in motion or stationary, it lets off a slight hiss, then pumps up and kicks back... It never done that before.

Also, after a 3 mile spin the n/s front disc was seriously hot, had smoke comeing off of it, i could smell it inside with the windows up!!

Hi, did you manage to resolve the problem? do you know what it was?

Think in the end he musta torched it...

Does anyone have a current link to the repair kit? I searched through a few of these threads, but ended up at "page not found" every time.

i have a spare second hand modulator which I'll fit for now, but would rather repair my old one for the long term, as I know my own vehicle's history.

Dimebag 666 said:

Hi rasheed,

After speaking with Russel i can now, with some certainty, say mine is a later THOR model.

I have this morning followed a diagnostic from rangerovers.net... I note that after depressurising the system the pump ran for approx 45 seconds once the ingnition was turned on..

durring the 5 minute wait the pump then ran again..

i also noted that the pump runs everytime the brake is depressed..

i see no external leaks so i now believe it is my pump that is faulty (leaking internally) or just maybe a bad accumulator..

Any further suggestions would be appreciated,

Thanks everyone for the help

Click to expand...

An old thread I know but surely a Thor has the later modulator which doesn't suffer this failure.

StuckAgainSteve said:

An old thread I know but surely a Thor has the later modulator which doesn't suffer this failure.

Click to expand...

It also has or had a knackered accumulator.

StuckAgainSteve said:

An old thread I know but surely a Thor has the later modulator which doesn't suffer this failure.

Click to expand...

Someone told me the 99 onwards (Thor) had steel washers inside.

Sounds like brakes weren't bled according to RAVE and brakes were binding. Rasheed's advice was good.