P38 2.5DSE Diesel Cold Start Issue

Hey Up Everyone,

Basically the Range Rover has got progressively worse and harder to start in this cold weather. Recently had Glow Plugs replaced but this hasn't helped. I have also been reading that cheap glow plugs are ****e so may need to spend some money on some decent ones.

I have recorded a video with what actually happens when trying to start it which will hopefully explain a bit more.

Range Rover Diesel P38 Cold Start Issue: Range Rover Diesel P38 Cold Start Issue - YouTube

Please have a look and get back to me. The funny thing is once I've managed to start it once it starts a lot easier the next time later on in the day whether it's 1hr or 8hrs.
Mechanic is saying it could also be the in tank fuel pump.

Over to you

Cheerz in Advance

Zaff

In tank fuel pump, fuel filter, glow plugs, glow plug relay & leak-off pipes.

Basically you need fuel to be supplied, then not be blocked, then not be leaking away and some decent heat in two or three consecutive cylinders.

You're correct that generic glow-plugs don't work well or last in these engines.

Basically what DogsBody said mate check the above first... To check your getting fuel from the tank to the filter remove the filter and place a tub under the filter housing and turn ignition on. Fuel should pour out if it doesn't you have a tank pump issue. If it does then your problem is engine side so change the filter and glow plugs...

Try cycling the glowplugs 2 or 3 times before you crank, if it improves, your glowplugs are probably ****e. the cheapos never last.

Datatek said:

Try cycling the glowplugs 2 or 3 times before you crank, if it improves, your glowplugs are probably ****e. the cheapos never last.

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This is how I've been trying to start the RR. It doesn't seem to work or help but keep doing it just in case the glow plugs are at fault.
I will look at RAVE for the fuel filter so I can get better diagnosis of it.

Thanks again for the help.

Zaff

Ruthlessgk said:

This is how I've been trying to start the RR. It doesn't seem to work or help but keep doing it just in case the glow plugs are at fault.
I will look at RAVE for the fuel filter so I can get better diagnosis of it.

Thanks again for the help.

Zaff

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Look at the clear pipe from filter to injection pump check it for air. Also how long does the glow lamp stay on? Should be 8 or 9 seconds on a really cold morning. If it's less then that suspect the ECU temp sensor or the glow timer relay itself.

Mine was starting to sound like that on cold mornings, replacing with quality glow plugs solved it for me. Three were knackered.

I had a very similar sounding problem on My P38 and it turned out to be a damaged glow plug. Maybe you have a faulty one or damaged?

SpanishTony said:

Mine was starting to sound like that on cold mornings, replacing with quality glow plugs solved it for me. Three were knackered.

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Yep for sure, cheap plugs are a waste of time.

Fit only BERU(they were factory fitted) glow plugs to this engine.

Cycling ingition 2 or 3 times will also bleed(if in tank pump is working) injection pump if it's getting air in the system(trough leakoff pipes for example) and it will be easier to start.

Anyway it should start like Chuck Norris - from half a turn.

I had exactly the same symptoms and it was the in tank fuel pump, check it as mentioned above by removing the fuel filter, putting a jug underneath the pipe and get someone to turn the car over, if you do change the pump, don't buy a cheap one, make sure you get an OEM version.

There is a great description of how to change the pump without removing the talk here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f71/tank-fuel-pump-template-p38-109368.html

Removing tank is easy, no need to butcher floor.

N2O said:

Removing tank is easy, no need to butcher floor.

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I removed my tank, but it was nightmare as everything was rusted to everything else, but I got there in the end, it was still probably quicker than cutting and resealing the floor, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

dashwoodlandy said:

I removed my tank, but it was nightmare as everything was rusted to everything else, but I got there in the end, it was still probably quicker than cutting and resealing the floor, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

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No ,it's not worth mentioning it IMO. When you take the tank out you can check/replace the brake pipes that run behind it.

tomcat59alan said:

No ,it's not worth mentioning it IMO. When you take the tank out you can check/replace the brake pipes that run behind it.

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IMO two options is always better than one.:clap2:

dashwoodlandy said:

IMO two options is always better than one.:clap2:

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Remember that when a rear brake pipe fails, as happened to GfromLeeds I think it was.

tomcat59alan said:

Remember that when a rear brake pipe fails, as happened to GfromLeeds I think it was.

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I thought this thread was about cold start issues not brake issues:lol:

dashwoodlandy said:

I thought this thread was about cold start issues not brake issues:lol:

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It's known as killing two birds with one stone as opposed to killing ones self.:monitor_punch: