Ongoing work

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Badger said:
As it's been a while, here's an updated list of the stuff needing to be done, and boy has it got to the point my poor baby is struggling to forgive me!

  • Pass beam not working
  • Horn not working
  • OS lights dim
  • Front diff replace
  • Front axle replace ( housing )
  • Front shocks & dampers replace
  • Rear shocks & dampers replace
  • Rear os wheel oil leak
  • Rear x member replace ( by october MOT )
  • Drivers seat belt replace
  • Diff lock lever not engaging low range ( my fault, need to invstigate ) ( Done )
  • Manifold tighten ( running a 19J so it doesn't fit perfectly, periodic tightening of the bolts ) (Done )
  • Replace block asap, i get more smoke out of the breather pipe than the exhaust, constantly now, will check the gaps on the valves as well.


I think that's it off the top of my head, there will be more no doubt ;)
Click to expand...

Updated
 
better get on with it! I've got a similar list:

- investigate dodgy wiring leaving o/s side headlight dim on both settings, and n/s one dim unless on full-beam (noticed that the other day!) :(
- replace rear cross-member
- get my 200tdi in (almost ready)
- replace footwells
- spray inside chassis rails to rust-proof
- investigate clunking in front diff
 
tombardier said:
better get on with it! I've got a similar list:

- investigate dodgy wiring leaving o/s side headlight dim on both settings, and n/s one dim unless on full-beam (noticed that the other day!) :(
- replace rear cross-member
- get my 200tdi in (almost ready)
- replace footwells
- spray inside chassis rails to rust-proof
- investigate clunking in front diff
Click to expand...


Sounds like you got mt landy there lol

Clunking on front diff, UJ's perhaps? or like mine a fooked diff which in turn knackers UJ's by the dozen....
 
Well, the diff actually turns quite a bit before the clunk (and before anything is transmitted to the wheels). not really sure what it might be. haven't looked into it properly yet! I did have a really bad uj there not so long ago. Sypher helped me change that :) wouldn't mind fixing this before the new engine goes in actually!
 
tombardier said:
Well, the diff actually turns quite a bit before the clunk (and before anything is transmitted to the wheels). not really sure what it might be. haven't looked into it properly yet! I did have a really bad uj there not so long ago. Sypher helped me change that :) wouldn't mind fixing this before the new engine goes in actually!
Click to expand...

Steve's a good man ;)

The knackered UJ could be caused by the fooked Diff, i've gone through 3 sets in a year so far, but i'm aware the diff is knackered due to play, sound and a general feeling in the front area.

I've got a replacement axle on the bench, just need time now to swap em over :D
 
Replaced OS rear shock, spring & link bushs with them plasticy ones tonight, thank fook for my farm jack :lol:

MOT due in a week or so, so NS to do next then seat belt, horn & flash beam stalk, rear OS seal ( couldn't be arsed to do it tonight ) front axle swap & front shocks, springs & polybush's on the suspension side of things.

BTW i removed my rear box on the exhaust, MOT failure do you think or is it down to emissions on that one?
 
Ns shock & damper replaced today, simple job and easy to do, although a snapped bolt in the spring plate had to be drilled out.

The polybush kit was another story, after spending hours trying to get the lower link bush on the axle off the other i sat looking at this one an thought i'll do that in a min....2 hours later after fookin about with the other end of the link i left it, it looked in good enough nick and knowing they're damn well welded onto the link as nigh on impossible to get out with out punching the centre out after melting the rubber then using a hacksaw to cut the outer part of the bush from the link.

The reason the other end took so long was due to the aftermarket polybush set, the sleeve wasn't wide enough to slide over the link end, perhaps a half mil or so, but ffs how can you get that wrong?? The other side was fine, this side wasn't and it was then that on the box in tiny writing was that name that brings fear into most Landy owners.....

:(:(:mad:
 
i dont see aproblem with removing the rear box aslong as there is anothr silencer along the line and it doesnt leak, ive seen landrovers pased (including mine) with a removed silencer
 
As promised some pics :D

Started yesterday with swapping the axle over, keeping the halfshafts as mine were in a better condition, changing the shocks n dampers and replacing the rubbers with polybush's.

First up was stripping everything down, axle came out eventually after a struggle



with one of the shocks, the square end of the shock was buggered so i couldn't grip it to release the bolt, this got me scratching my head until i worked out a little system with a pair of old grips and a clamp to hold it:



The reason i didn't cut it off like the rear shocks was because i had to reuse these ones as the shocks in the box for the replacement were notfront shocks as described on the box:




Being stuck in the garage with no axle means i can't pop over to the landy shop to get them swapped :mad:

After removing the old axle i turned to the replacment( kindly donated by Vagrent some months ago ) which i stripped down to check for wear n tear



At this point i hunted high n low for the gaskets i purchased for the half shafts and for the life of me couldn't find them, so had to make some up:




Rebuilding the axle and some replacement shocks, i managed to get the axle into place with some jacks and my son helping, we got it into a stage where i could roll the whole thing back into the garage ( it was sticking out onto the pavement by a few feet all day whilst i did this ) for the night, here's some pics of the axle fitted via shocks just before the 2 panhard rods were fitted with new polybushs:










The swivels will need doing soon as some pitting is evident on them, but so far no leaking from them in the time they've been fitted to the old axle:




I also have a little bit of welding to do on the outrigger:





Finished @ 2:30am last night, back on it today to get the axle & steering back together so i can get over to the landy place and get the correct shocks!
 
you certainely arent phased by any job :) but for future reference any gasket thats not altering any shimming can be replaced with rtv silicone sealant handy to keep a tube lr did with the introduction of 300
 
instantsquid said:
Amps = watts / volts
Click to expand...

Also, remember to do these calculations based on your engine being off and the battery being down to 11v maybe even 10v. Then add about 3 amps for saftey.

55w light on at 10v = 5.5amps
11v = 5amps
12v = 4.5amps
13v = 4.2amps
14v = 3.9amps
 
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