Ongoing work

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you certainely arent phased by any job :) but for future reference any gasket thats not altering any shimming can be replaced with rtv silicone sealant handy to keep a tube lr did with the introduction of 300

Cheers James, i was wondering whether the gaskets were shims or not but given the length of the half shafts i couldn't see how a cardboard gasket would offset the mating of the main gear within the diff much. Thing is i do keep a tube of gasket sealent, but like my gaskets, buggered if i can find it :(

Also, remember to do these calculations based on your engine being off and the battery being down to 11v maybe even 10v. Then add about 3 amps for saftey.

55w light on at 10v = 5.5amps
11v = 5amps
12v = 4.5amps
13v = 4.2amps
14v = 3.9amps

wssfgllyll?

So the axle was generally ok?
Cool, glad you made good use of it:D
Good work man:D:D

All seems to be oki mate :D I haven't tested it yet on a drive as i have no oil as i kicked over the container which was full of it :lol:

looks like the chrome plating just letting loose,can you get them rechromed?

It's a possibility, i could look into it, i think it's about 65 for a new swivel, for that price i could pick up a 2nd hand disco axle though.


I've done more tonight, but currently painting my girlfriends kitchen, so will upload some pics when i get home tonight including the buying of a new stalk for the lights only to find my eyesight is **** and it was a fuse issue.....:p::eek::eek::D
 
A few more bits done, mainly replacing the indicator stalk which in turn means removing the steering wheel. Having a hunt around i couldn't find a suitable puller until i cam across a old head strap point for my 19J, the holes were just the right distance apart to use a couple of longish bolts and pull it off:



In the past i've rewired the interior dash lights to the headlight switch as shown here, though it would be good to show you ( it's the red n white wire )




My old fitting for the hazard switch :lol: i've now moved it under the dash slightly above where it originally sat:



Random messy pic:




Also replaced the drivers seatbelt, refitted the doors and bonnet, filled up the diff with oil.

Things still left to do for MOT:

Replace rear x member
Refit front breather pipe for axle
drain and repace oil in swivels
 
MOT booked in for monday, so that gives me the weekend to have a bash at patching the rear x member enough to make it structurely sound to pass. I picked up some 4mm plate offcuts from the local steel place to use so I shall be fixed in position at the rear of the landy most of the weekend with the welder.

Have took some pics of the worst parts, will post when I get home
 
Either side of the main chassis, to me, doesn't actually support much, on the NS is the exhaust bracket and the tab from the bodywork is bolted to it
 
welding a 4mm check plate the the ns rear of the x member, i figured this will strengthen it back up by weldinging from a solid piece over the kink and rot.

Will also need to weld the underneath of the section as well

Welding is being a pain abit, got a lovely clean weld down one side, then its spits like a mofo on the next side, no change of material or earth etc,
 
Finally found a good weld setting, my wire was too fast, after a while the welder cuts out ( thermal protection) so I have to reset it on the dial :(
 
Enough for tonight, i was on top of it until i started tapping other areas with a hammer and produced more holes so thought balls to it, get a failure and at least it gives me a week to to do the rest.

A few pics of the start, 10/10 for determination, 1/10 for neatness lol













The damn thing is solid now, a few more plates to weld over the joints of the 2 different pieces to tidy it up, damn 5mm steel is a pain to cut :(
 
Hammerite or waxoyl the lot and take your chances at the mot station.

It's a lot neater than my welding!!
 
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