Ok so I fixed the leak. Now it misfires! :( :(

Quiet you!

:doh: some peeps

Yes it was crazy, it only did it when up to temp. spent ages changing a part then running round the block fine fine fine yes ive fixed it then as soon as it got warm cough splutter fart. back home next part on same again. I did everything , ecu afm both temp senders leads cap amp rotor etc. tps was about the only thing I didnt do. then stu came down with a fault code reader and it said throttle pot. luckily he had a used one and it was sorted.

to make the rudness of joe worse I just sold him my spare tps and they are £147 new

Righto thanks fett. I'll be sure to check that out thoroughly then.

If I'm honest when I was driving the other day I thought it felt a bit flat, and maybe even sounded lean. Not sure if that's possible, but there just sounded to be more airflow sound and less vrumm than normal. Maybe that's just me!

Anyway, nice one

ok o working through the problems, the irflow sensor CO trim ws set to 0.2 volts where it should be 1.0-1.5 volts. it still runs since turning it up so looking good

injectorschecked out ok for resistnce, so did the idle vlve.

moving on...

fett said:

:doh: some peeps

Yes it was crazy, it only did it when up to temp. spent ages changing a part then running round the block fine fine fine yes ive fixed it then as soon as it got warm cough splutter fart. back home next part on same again. I did everything , ecu afm both temp senders leads cap amp rotor etc. tps was about the only thing I didnt do. then stu came down with a fault code reader and it said throttle pot. luckily he had a used one and it was sorted.

to make the rudness of joe worse I just sold him my spare tps and they are £147 new

Click to expand...

That's irony Fett...Yeah, I've tried the (over priced) copy tps units, and yes they aren't very good. I finally managed to track a genuine one down and fit it. Less than a week later I saw another genuine one listed on ebay and won it...lo and behold it's Fetts auction!! (small world).....

So, I do actually have that unit as a spares one. It's not perfect, but it is a genuine one, and Fett does tell me it works .
Sam, I could always bring that down with the EFi probe. It'd be only a few minutes to swap n try...let me know what ya need???

I would be happy to swap the tps for a pair of rear half shafts (assuming you got some spare) to go with a front stub axle!

Hi joe

Checked out my tps for voltage and it does seem to be perfect.

The only thing out was the AFM, which had already had its security cap broken. Has been like this since I got it in 2008.

CO trim was right down at 0.2 volts, I have now set it to 1.20 volts which is what classic Kev says he runs his at.

Startup from cold and it sounds more like its in tune. Doesn't pop anywhere near as much in the exhaust, and it revs up really responsively. Very very nice, improved, chuffed.

we've been sat here for 10 minutes revving up/ticking over and it's not burning our eyes out. Before setting it up it would sting your eyes within a minute.

Maybe someone had turned the CO all the way down to get it through mot and I've been running it like that since then?!

However now that it's up to full temp, it's just gone missy and lumpy again. Didnt notice any difference on tickover, but detected a bit of eye burn. Still revs up but it's off on a few cylinders and it pops on overrun, so I'm saying it's missing on ignition, because it's got a really strong smell in here now and it's burning eyes again!

Joe, thanks for your offer, I'd appreciate giving it a go but can't see the problem with the tps at the moment!

I do have a pair of rear shafts, may be for sale if ive got a spare set for myself left over!!

Cheers guys!

mine didnt play up at idle, only when driving.

it sounds more like igntion breaking down there mate.

you done the amp yet?

what about the coil?

Ok.

I've been using the 14cux page on britishv8 for my diagnostic reference.

Since turning the engine off hot, I have tested again the injectors and the Tps. I also tried unplugging the fuel temp and coolant temp when engine running.

Fuel temp made no difference, can anyone comment on this? Coolant temp idled up and made the misfire slightly less pronounced, just like the other day.

Tps checked out exactly the same as when engine cold.

Tested injectors at ECU plug, engine cold I was getting around 4.2 ohms on both sides. Engine hot I'm getting 4.8/4.9 on one side, 5.0/5.1 on the other.

According to the website, 4.5 is max normal, anything over 5.0 suggests one bad injector. Is it allowable for the resistances to rise when the injectors are hot? Or are they failing when hot?

I will have to remove the plenum and check the resistances individually to find out I guess.

Other than that I can see myself looking into the ignition.

No I haven't fitted a new cap/rotor or plugs, because i can't see engine temp affecting them.

This problems occurs when the engine is hot. Not when warming up, when hot.

Could be ignition amp, can't be coil because it is wing mounted so doesn't get warm enough.

Hmmm.

Any further ideas/comments appreciated

Cheers fett missed your post.

Nope i havent done the amp. Its still the original 2 pin type so it must be very old!!

maybe do that first as the cheapest option, and when the coils is fooked they make there own heat when running

Coil was cold to the touch so presumably ok.

I'll take the plugs out and see if there's a visual clue, then I'll clip the strobe light onto each lead and see if it's a particular cylinder (or more) that's missing.

Depending on that result I'll decide whether to get another amp.

It seems that it's missing on more than one cylinder, and two/three/four plugs/leads don't just all of a sudden fail at the same time but only when hot.

My gut feeling is amp, because it could be affected by the heat, could easily be the distributor aswell though.

Anyway, will have another go at it tomorrow!

Thanks fett

14 cux, always fun

Have ordered an ignition module from our motor factors. Don't laugh, it's an intermotor part

Was £22, but thought I'd get it just in case I need it tonight. Can always return it if it's not needed. I managed to get hold of a 2pin type no problem, better than converting to 3 pin IMO.

Cheers

if it works at all , I just sold a britaprt coolant temp sender still in its bag on ebay, bloke tried returning it saying the plastic just turns round on the metal bit :doh:

I have faith in intermotor

(intermittent more like) lol

you said it

Sounds like it might well be dizzy /module related then.

Yep, defo have them if you've got the bits spare mate

Ok. Seems to be sorted, kinda surprised me though but then again I'm a bit of a noob!

Got the car in the workshop, had a can of coke and said 'hmmm'.

Took the plugs out. All were furry black, some wet but quickly dried (petrol), one or two were crusty black from extra deposits!

Took all the ht leads off the car and set about measuring their resistances.

The leads varied depending on their length, the longest ones being around 5.5-6.0 KOhm, the shorter ones being about 2.5-3.0 KOhm. There was one anomaly, lead number 6, that was about 7 KOhm, which was too high for its length.

We pulled the boot back at the plug end and the socket was corroded, obviously got water in there. Plug 6 was one of the furryest aswell. The resistance went down to about 3.8 KOhm after it was cleaned up. Result.

My current leads are Sentech stainless steel wire wound conductor leads, pretty good quality. I had a cheapo set of leads in my spares box so I checked them, they were all about 14 KOhm, can't be good for reliable ignition!!

Proceeded to fit my new NGK plugs (I have used Champion for the last 2 changes) and measured the resistance of the old plugs.

The good ones seemed to be about 2.2 MegaOhm, worse ones about 4-5 MOhm, but one of them I couldn't even get a reading. As in too high for my multimeter. Bad!

My old man told me about a plug tester that Champion used to make, to check a plug would spark under pressure provided my a compressor. Interesting, but no longer available!

Long story short, threw it all back together and it seems to be cured. Not road tested yet, but in the workshop it didn't miss a beat, warm or cold.

Will give it a good run tomorrow! All good so far though!

Also checked my breathers over seeing as I noticed a little bit of steam coming out of the dipstick tube on tickover.

Removed the main pipe that runs from flame trap to the throttle body. Last time I cleaned this for the first time about 18 months ago it was basically blocked completely. This time it had a little bit of white emulsion lining it. What I did notice was the T piece that runs to the plenum was completely blocked on the T pipe. I had obviously missed it during my even more noob inspection 18 months ago!

Cleared the small hole out and it wouldn't restart so easily the first time, so obviously made a difference to the airflow. Not a big deal but hopefully it'll keep the air moving around as it should be!

So urm, cheers chappies, let's see what happens tomorrow

And joe, thanks again for the offer, what are you doing tomorrow afternoon? Cos I'm at work all afternoon so if you want to pop down for the bits and pieces that's fine...

Cheers

That's great news Sam, and fingers crossed it stays smooth. Agree that sometimes it can be the basics instead of going for the sensors n senders....I'm guilty of it meself...I remember several years back taking the heads of a Lancia Delta engine cos it wouldn't fire properly, only to discover it was the dodgy italian HT leads at fault!

Yeah, I'm at the shop/ work all day tommorrow. I've got all day sunday and off probs wednesday too