Oil treatment: seal conditioner

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wammers said:
Well if you use oil with the consistency of pee in a high miler what do you expect.
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Define "high miler". I'm at 120K, and it's been pretty well kept since with me - can't comment for the previous 80K it had done though.

gemsdad said:
10w/40 semi synthetic is the correct oil.
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I disagree, 5w30 seems to be the consensus pretty much everywhere other than this thread (above comment excepted).
 
Bennehboy said:
Define "high miler". I'm at 120K, and it's been pretty well kept since with me - can't comment for the previous 80K it had done though.



I disagree, 5w30 seems to be the consensus pretty much everywhere other than this thread (above comment excepted).
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5w 30 is the correct oil if you have a new engine and live in Alaska. For this climate it is 10w 40. But carry on you obviously know more than i do.
 
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wammers said:
5w 30 is the correct oil if you have a new engine and live in Alaska. For this climate it is 10w 40. But carry on you obviously know more than i do.
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Happy to take your advice, I'm just reporting that I've been using 5w30 because everywhere seems to advocate its use (rightly or wrongly). This is the first I've heard otherwise.

Any specific spec of 10w40? semi synth, fully synth, etc etc?

I'm intending to drop the oil to check for water in the sump anyway, so sticking something thicker in for summer could be a good option to try.

Cheers.
 
Bennehboy said:
Happy to take your advice, I'm just reporting that I've been using 5w30 because everywhere seems to advocate its use (rightly or wrongly). This is the first I've heard otherwise.

Any specific spec of 10w40? semi synth, fully synth, etc etc?

I'm intending to drop the oil to check for water in the sump anyway, so sticking something thicker in for summer could be a good option to try.

Cheers.
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If you look at your owners hand book you will see that 5w 30 is only for where temps fall as low as -50 degrees. Water in the sump will be obvious from the dipstick, oil will be milky.
 
wammers said:
If you look at your owners hand book you will see that 5w 30 is only for where temps fall as low as -50 degrees. Water in the sump will be obvious from the dipstick, oil will be milky.
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Yeah I'd have thought so too, read online that it can sometimes pool under the oil level and not do that (but am skeptical).

The reason I'm looking into this is that I have a provent fitted that I've managed to clog the filter element on (within a month), turns out this was the main reason I was creating smoke... but the gunk building up in the provent is a bit of an oil/water emulsion, dotted int thin syruppy water. I don't look to be using coolant so am hoping it's not the start of a head gasket issue.

Provent was fitted to prevent rapid oiling up of the intercooler.

If a thicker oil gets rid of this problem I'll be well chuffed but I suspect it won't.
 
Bennehboy said:
Castrol Magnatec 5W30
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If you live in arctic weather then that is ok. But for uk weather a 10w30 for winter and a 10w 40 for summer. Here in Northern Michigan ( which is a hell of alot colder) 10w30 is our winter choice and 10w40 for summer. Our winters we see-20F to -40 for weeks at a time. 300k on a petrol motor and never a issue, and 205k on my diesel at the moment and everything is Fine. Goes next week for service for the summer weather 15 qts of 10w40.... and a fuel filter change.:)
 
Bennehboy said:
Define "high miler". I'm at 120K, and it's been pretty well kept since with me - can't comment for the previous 80K it had done though.



I disagree, 5w30 seems to be the consensus pretty much everywhere other than this thread (above comment excepted).
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Because there are some right cheap skates that want to save 2-3 quid on a oil change. Oil quality is not something you want to get cheap on, when a new motor is several thousand quid.
 
Thor1950 said:
If you live in arctic weather then that is ok. But for uk weather a 10w30 for winter and a 10w 40 for summer. Here in Northern Michigan ( which is a hell of alot colder) 10w30 is our winter choice and 10w40 for summer. Our winters we see-20F to -40 for weeks at a time. 300k on a petrol motor and never a issue, and 205k on my diesel at the moment and everything is Fine. Goes next week for service for the summer weather 15 qts of 10w40.... and a fuel filter change.:)
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15 quarts? It must be some truck to take that much:eek:
 
Bennehboy said:
Yeah I'd have thought so too, read online that it can sometimes pool under the oil level and not do that (but am skeptical).

The reason I'm looking into this is that I have a provent fitted that I've managed to clog the filter element on (within a month), turns out this was the main reason I was creating smoke... but the gunk building up in the provent is a bit of an oil/water emulsion, dotted int thin syruppy water. I don't look to be using coolant so am hoping it's not the start of a head gasket issue.

Provent was fitted to prevent rapid oiling up of the intercooler.

If a thicker oil gets rid of this problem I'll be well chuffed but I suspect it won't.
Click to expand...

Mayo in the cam cover and in your daft aftermarket kit is usually caused by short trips were the engine does not reach full temp for long enough. Nothing to do with head gaskets leaking as is the common amatuer mechanics thoughts. It's a ventilation problem.
 
wammers said:
Mayo in the cam cover and in your daft aftermarket kit is usually caused by short trips were the engine does not reach full temp for long enough. Nothing to do with head gaskets leaking as is the common amatuer mechanics thoughts. It's a ventilation problem.
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Please would you explain to this amateur mechanic why the provent is a daft aftermarket kit?

It's pretty unusual for the engine to run for anything less than the period it takes for the coolant to get up to temp, most of the journeys are an hour long or more. Is that not enough for there to be no breather mayo.

Hope you can read this OK from the top of your ivory tower.
 
Bennehboy said:
Thanks for that link, good info. Seems I need to change oil more regularly, I've been doing it about every 5-6K
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Oil change every 6K is OK, at least it is on mine but I use synthetic. Most of my journeys are 20 miles each way, there is no mayo in the cam cover.
A duff stat stopping it getting up to full temperature will perhaps cause it.
 
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