Oil change on td4

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Freda Freelander

Freda Freelander

Member
Posts
28
Location
Yorkshire
Morning Peeps,
Following the clutch fiasco, I'm considering doing an oil change myself.
How easy/ difficult is this likely to be? I'm fairly handy but don't want to mess up. Can't afford to send her in anywhere as clutch swallowed my Dosh.
Also, where is a good place to obtain filters etc?
Loving having a fully functional clutch:D Now want to give her some TLC
 
Only thing out of ordinary you need is a 36mm socket for they filter. It will make your life easier, as on the plug is a normal 15mm.
Also some pan and a way top dispose the oil.
 
Remove lower engine cover. Make sure sump plug can be loosened, thoroughly warm engine - go for a drive up to temp. Td4 uses 6.8 Litres so make sure container is big enough! While oil is draining remove filter and clean out holder. Fit new filter with new O rings which should come with filter. Fit sump plug with new washer which should come with filter. Refill with oil. I use 10-40 semi synthetic, others have different preferences. Good luck, you can do it!! Don't forget to check other filters, turbo, breather, air filter and pollen filter. Kits are available on eBay with all filters for about £35. Fuel filter is extra and a bit more tricky.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Remove lower engine cover. Make sure sump plug can be loosened, thoroughly warm engine - go for a drive up to temp. Td4 uses 6.8 Litres so make sure container is big enough! While oil is draining remove filter and clean out holder. Fit new filter with new O rings which should come with filter. Fit sump plug with new washer which should come with filter. Refill with oil. I use 10-40 semi synthetic, others have different preferences. Good luck, you can do it!! Don't forget to check other filters, turbo, breather, air filter and pollen filter. Kits are available on eBay with all filters for about £35. Fuel filter is extra and a bit more tricky.
Click to expand...
Thanks Andy.
Will get the bits and pieces together and have a go if/when it ever stops raining!
Have attached picture of Freda in typical pose!
 

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What Andy said :)

The oil filter housing is plastic so be ginger. A 36mm socket will help remove it as there's no space to swing a big spanner. Don't be tempted to put all the oil in at once. Although the total capacity is 6.8ltr, you won't get that much in unless the engine and components are completely dry. Stick in the first 5ltr and check the dipstick (making sure you're on level ground). Top up to desired level from there then run the engine a bit before rechecking the dipstick level.

If you're feeling adventurous, I had great success cleansing the system with some cheap 10W40 oil and half a pint of diesel. I ran the engine up to temperature then dropped the oil again. It came out very black thanks to the diesel. Then refilled with decent oil. I use 5W40 coz it's a bit cold on the mountain :D

All the other service filters and items are straightforward and an OE kit shouldn't be more than £50. I'm not a massive fan of the BMW cyclone thingy (crankcase breather) as it appears to be no more efficient than the sponge type.

Happy tinkering.
 
Don't know if you've got a couple of bux spare, but riv-nuts will make your life oh so much easier in future services. Way back when, in 2006, when I took ownership of our 2002 freelander, I had a look at the sump tray and thought dang, have I really got to take that down to get the oil out? then I had a eureka moment, I drilled out the rivets holding the plastic portion of the tray on to the frame, then replaced them with rivnuts, which go in like a pop rivet, but leave a threaded insert like a trap nut, so for future servicing I could just unbolt the plastic tray.

Something like this would get you started, although do not use ally rivnuts on steel, use brass ones. The ali ones have a nasty bimetalic reaction and result in really rapid corrosion, but won't be an issue for rivnutting your ally sump guard frame.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/86Pcs-Th...498207&hash=item4433630fee:g:0HUAAOSwJ4Va9VK3
 
weemac said:
I'm not a massive fan of the BMW cyclone thingy (crankcase breather) as it appears to be no more efficient than the sponge type.
Click to expand...

It isn't. It actually lets more oil through than the cotton real filter. The vortex type just doesn't block up like the cotton real filter, which is why BMW switched to it early on.
 
Nodge68 said:
It isn't. It actually lets more oil through than the cotton real filter. The vortex type just doesn't block up like the cotton real filter, which is why BMW switched to it early on.
Click to expand...

Makes no sense to me, that. You'd think a revision to the service procedure to include that filter would be best. I take it you have (or had?) the sponge type and replace it regularly?
 
Jayridium said:
Don't know if you've got a couple of bux spare, but riv-nuts will make your life oh so much easier in future services. Way back when, in 2006, when I took ownership of our 2002 freelander, I had a look at the sump tray and thought dang, have I really got to take that down to get the oil out? then I had a eureka moment, I drilled out the rivets holding the plastic portion of the tray on to the frame, then replaced them with rivnuts, which go in like a pop rivet, but leave a threaded insert like a trap nut, so for future servicing I could just unbolt the plastic tray.

Something like this would get you started, although do not use ally rivnuts on steel, use brass ones. The ali ones have a nasty bimetalic reaction and result in really rapid corrosion, but won't be an issue for rivnutting your ally sump guard frame.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/86Pcs-Th...498207&hash=item4433630fee:g:0HUAAOSwJ4Va9VK3
Click to expand...

That's a really good shout. I've observed people putting a big hole saw through the plastic bit underneath the sump plug to access it without the belly pan off. Might have to clean a bit of oil off the top of the plastic part, though.
 
Hi all, being new to freelanders but old to landrover early Discos, I too wanted to service my latest hippo, 54 plate TD4 HSE (se/a) whatever that means ? I opted to unbolt the lower tray, let the oil drain then stopped due to not having a 36mm low profile socket, so Ebay & dosh got me a delivered red plastic box with 5 most commonly used oil filter sockets for an amazing £10-80 i believe - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-OIL-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I bought an oil & oil filter kit of 7 litres of 5W-40 fully synthetic and apart from some unbolting some engine cover it needed a bit of a wiggle to get the silly plastic oil filter case out, but, was OK`ish...OH, I used my medium sized rattle gun thats 1/2 inch drive but needed a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer to fit the 36 mm socket, a quick go with the rattle gun and off spun the oilfilter "cover" / case.
In my great plan of things, I plan to change the oil much sooner than the books 10.000 miles as the old girl has quite a lot of miles on it already, so, with caution in my mind, a change at 5.000 or before next summer - whichever comes first... Got to make use of my set of oil filter sockets after all..lol
I still got to change the other filters yet, but not going far in my hippo - named "Pandora`s Box"
Off subject s;lightly, got my son to spray my new towbar today, after a quick rub down to aid the new paint, I / we heated the steel with a heat gun, or tried to, under my car port, but my son done it well..
To be fitted soon by me..
Have fun, enjoy your hippo`s as I Intend to.
Ian
 
i bought a pump off flea bay that connects to the battery and pumped the oil out through the dip stick tube.no problems got a good 95 percent out no taking under tray off till i really need to.
 
weemac said:
Makes no sense to me, that. You'd think a revision to the service procedure to include that filter would be best.
Click to expand...
It all about reducing fleet buyer's service costs in the first 3 years. After that, most manufacturers don't give a damn.
weemac said:
I take it you have (or had?) the sponge type and replace it regularly?
Click to expand...
Cotton real type, changed annually at the same time as the oil/filter.
 
Joezeppy said:
i bought a pump off flea bay that connects to the battery and pumped the oil out through the dip stick tube.no problems got a good 95 percent out no taking under tray off till i really need to.
Click to expand...
Don't make a habit of using those pumps, as they only remove the oil, and not the accumulation of sludge that collects at the bottom of the sump. ;)
 
Joezeppy said:
i bought a pump off flea bay that connects to the battery and pumped the oil out through the dip stick tube.no problems got a good 95 percent out no taking under tray off till i really need to.
Click to expand...

Nodge68 said:
Don't make a habit of using those pumps, as they only remove the oil, and not the accumulation of sludge that collects at the bottom of the sump. ;)
Click to expand...

Second that. Nowt beats doing a job properly. Get the sump pan off next time and give it a wash ;) Not even a full drain will cleanse it.

NyMaSF6.jpg
 
Hi all, sorry for my late reply.
In the end I bought a "oil filter short socket kit of 5 most used sizes" from Ebay (under £11 delivered) and spun the plastic oil filter top off with my battery rattle gun no bother..
I think the previous oil change, the new filter and O ring seal was put back dry so was a bit stuck.
Undertray was no problem taking off or putting back luckily, so it had drained for a day or so..
As I do lots of short runs, I plan to change the engine oil & filter before next summer or 5000 miles whatever comes sooner, and so will help in keeping the engine Insides a bit cleaner..
Thanks all, Ian.
 
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