P38A What would you change on re commission?

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Flossie

Flossie

Well-Known Member
Posts
11,048
Location
Shropshire
As some of you know, I've got meself a P38 diesel auto 2001 106k on the clock, been stood 4 yrs.
I should be able to get her in my garage, once I've made room, by the weekend.
In the 2 weeks that she's been here I've been fiddling and everything seems to work but I can't drive it on the road until mot day.
So far I have
Got a nancom Evo
A new starter battery
An updated alternator regulator
Downloaded vol 1 and 2 of the workshop manual and also the electrical manual, all off a link someone kindly put up and in their words " not rave but the same as" or words to that effect.
I've also purchased a ball joint removal tool kit that martyuk used when I googled searched balljoint replacement.

16275513288772231907548817865084.jpg

My plan is to replace
All 4 balljoints on the yokes.
All trackrod ends.
All 4 discs.
All 4 calipers
All brake pads.
All brake flexi's
All rear brake pipes (at least)
5 new tyres
Drop the tank and flush out.
At least 2 new rear exhaust boxes.
Renew diff, transfer box oils.
Oil change on the engine plus air, oil, fuel and pollen filters.
Replace coolent.
New stat
New metal impeller water pump.
If YOU were in my shoes and knowing what you know about p38's now...
What would you oil/grease/inspect/ modify (by mods, I mean things like fuel pump floor access hole, not bling or off road stuff).
EAS works and all bags look good .
I want to do 'something' to the autobox for the good or am I best leaving it alone.?
 
Last edited:
Flossie said:
As some of you know, I've got meself a P38 diesel auto 2001 106k on the clock, been stood 4 yrs.
I should be able to get her in my garage, once I've made room, by the weekend.
In the 2 weeks that she's been here I've been fiddling and everything seems to work but I can't drive it on the road until mot day.
So far I have
Got a nancom Evo
A new starter battery
An updated alternator regulator
Downloaded vol 1 and 2 of the workshop manual and also the electrical manual, all off a link someone kindly put up and in their words " not rave but the same as" or words to that effect.
I've also purchased a ball joint removal tool kit that martyuk used when I googled searched balljoint replacement.

View attachment 243991
My plan is to replace
All 4 balljoints on the yokes.
All trackrod ends.
All 4 discs.
All 4 calipers
All brake pads.
All brake flexi's
All rear brake pipes (at least)
5 new tyres
Drop the tank and flush out.
At least 2 new rear exhaust boxes.
Renew diff, transfer box oils.
Oil change on the engine plus air, oil, fuel and pollen filters.
Replace coolent.
If YOU were in my shoes and knowing what you know about p38's now...
What would you oil/grease/inspect/ modify (by mods, I mean things like fuel pump floor access hole, not bling or off road stuff).
EAS works and all bags look good .
I want to do 'something' to the autobox for the good or am I best leaving it alone.?
Click to expand...
For autobox would recommend oil and filter change Follow Rave instructions for refilling
 
You should check your coolant stat is opening and closing properly, waterpump for any play plus drive belt/tensioner arm & fulcrum.
These are the M51 things that will cause you tears in miles to come and Nanocom will give you little if no warning.

Autobox is good shout. Even if it’s only oil and filter change, they are okay if you look after them but once neglected they are stuffed.
 
As above re the AT - use good oil too.... I know you knew that ...:)

I wouldn't change calipers unless necessary - but the flexi's and brake pipes in general are a very good call - I've fitted SS braided flexi's to our D1's with noticeable improvement in pedal feel....

Pads and discs are a difficult one - if they are close to the end, than fair enough, but otherwise I'd leave well alone - save the money in case something else spits its dummy out...

I'm guessing you'll include flushing in the coolant change....

Think I'd also be checking the known trouble spots in the looms - connectors at the side of the footwells for an attack of the green crusties :rolleyes: ... and treating with CAIG De-oxit or equivalent as required...

A clean of the rear chassis and body drainholes would be a good shout IMO - I've seen a few 38's which are showing some flakiness in those areas - though, to be fair, it's minimal in comparison to, for example a D1, or a tratter BH .... but probably the right time to exterminate any tin worms trying to make a home :mad: ...
 
RangeRoller dt said:
You should check your coolant stat is opening and closing properly, waterpump for any play plus drive belt/tensioner arm & fulcrum.
These are the M51 things that will cause you tears in miles to come and Nanocom will give you little if no warning.

Autobox is good shout. Even if it’s only oil and filter change, they are okay if you look after them but once neglected they are stuffed.
Click to expand...
Ok. I'll edit the list for new stat and a metal impeller water pump too. Someone said the placcy ones fail.
Who sells the metal ones?
 
Disco1BFG said:
As above re the AT - use good oil too.... I know you knew that ...:)

I wouldn't change calipers unless necessary - but the flexi's and brake pipes in general are a very good call - I've fitted SS braided flexi's to our D1's with noticeable improvement in pedal feel....

Pads and discs are a difficult one - if they are close to the end, than fair enough, but otherwise I'd leave well alone - save the money in case something else spits its dummy out...

I'm guessing you'll include flushing in the coolant change....

Think I'd also be checking the known trouble spots in the looms - connectors at the side of the footwells for an attack of the green crusties :rolleyes: ... and treating with CAIG De-oxit or equivalent as required...

A clean of the rear chassis and body drainholes would be a good shout IMO - I've seen a few 38's which are showing some flakiness in those areas - though, to be fair, it's minimal in comparison to, for example a D1, or a tratter BH .... but probably the right time to exterminate any tin worms trying to make a home :mad: ...
Click to expand...
There is rust on a rear cross member, when I viewed, before purchase, it was difficult to poke a head under and I thought it was part of the towbar but realized when I got her home that it's the chassis.:oops:.
Discs are ridged and rusty, I'll have a close look at the calipers when it's in my garage but they are so cheap new(britpart seem good for calipers) I thought I might refurb the old for spares, don't think you can get SS pistons for 38's though?
I have read about a connection giving trouble behind a kick panel but unsure which side at the moment:rolleyes:.
 
dubbleRR said:
If its been lying for years ,take a good look for mouse ,rodent damage to wires ,n stuff ,:eek: even the odd nest...:D
Click to expand...
Absolutely nothing like that found;).
Shed load of pine needles though and mould on interior plasticso_O. I suspect the outside was covered in green stuff as they missed the odd bit with the pressure washer used before they took the eBay pics.:rolleyes:.
It looked a shed tbh:eek: but I saw through the grime and took a punt:D
 
Flossie said:
There is rust on a rear cross member, when I viewed, before purchase, it was difficult to poke a head under and I thought it was part of the towbar but realized when I got her home that it's the chassis.:oops:.
Discs are ridged and rusty, I'll have a close look at the calipers when it's in my garage but they are so cheap new(britpart seem good for calipers) I thought I might refurb the old for spares, don't think you can get SS pistons for 38's though?
I have read about a connection giving trouble behind a kick panel but unsure which side at the moment:rolleyes:.
Click to expand...
You'll see the extent of the rust when you remove the rear exhaust boxes,guess what I've been doing today, exhaust back on tomorrow. The white block connectors are both sides behind the side panels, bottom of the A posts.;):D:D
 
Good point @brianp38dse, the rear brake pipes that run from the outside of the footwell down the chassis toward the rear. I had to do all the rubber flexibles on mine at the rear as the ends broke off the rusted brake pipes. Two chassis to axle flexible pipes and two body to chassis flexible pipes.
 
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