P38A No locking and no Windows working.

The display is showing front doors are open even though they are not.
Iv checked all wires to outstations from the becm and all ok

@martyuk is your man for door lock issues!

Check fuse 22 and fuse 9.

I checked fuses first. Iv been on it all week tracing wires and voltage from becm too the window switch and doors.

3lander4x4 said:

I checked fuses first. Iv been on it all week tracing wires and voltage from becm too the window switch and doors.

Click to expand...

Door ajar switches in locks first go through the door outstations. Locking on drivers door only would point to CDL switch on drivers door lock. Windows could well be consul switch pack they do fail with regularity.

Is there a way of checking the window switches. Iv got power there.

3lander4x4 said:

Is there a way of checking the window switches. Iv got power there.

Click to expand...

Not unless you are au fait with electronics the board is stacked with them. Mine failed, nothing would work although there was power. Replacement one cured it.

Apparently this one is the 3rd working one put in it.

As Wammers says - F9 and F22... they are the main power supplies to both of the front door outstations. Even if the fuses are OK, do you have 12V there permanently?

If you have 12 there all the time, and get 12V on both the Purple/Blue and Purple/Black wires at the front door outstations, then it almost sounds like it could be a problem on the BECM logic board - as both front door outstations, and the window switchpack communicate on a serial link back to the BECM.

The tailgate locking/unlocking points to the drivers door latch CDL switch being OK, as the tailgate motor grounds through this when the door/latch is unlocked - and then when the door/latch is locked, the connection to ground is switched off, so the tailgate won't operate. So what you have there is all normal.

EDIT - if it is a logic board problem on the BECM, then it is possible to reprogram a known working board to your vehicle information - better (in my opinion) than swapping it and the lockset etc out with a second hand set. I have the equipment to reprogram boards if needed.

Being a manual the becms are like rocking horse poop.
Yes Iv got permanent 12v on them two wires is there supposed too be any more live there.
May have to splice into the window wiring on the drivers door, if it's possible, just to get some air into the car.
Just got to figure out if and how to do it.

Just because it's a manual means nothing when it comes to the BECM - Manual/Automatic is just a programming option.
What's the part number on the BECM sticker? Probably either AMRxxxx or YWCxxxxxx

I've got about 20 BECM's in various states, and of different part numbers in the garage. I've also just had a look through the parts site that I use, and there is no differentiation in part number by what transmission the vehicle has.

Do the rear windows still work off the switches in the rear doors? They are wired directly to the BECM and you should be able to hear the relay clicking in the BECM when the switch is pressed. If even they don't work, then it sounds more like there's an internal problem.

Iv pressed every button and knob and can't here no relays clicking. Rear windows don't work.
Iv also tested the conternuerty on the front door switches and all is ok.
Looks like it's inside the becm then.

If you need the BECM reprogrammed/cloned onto another one, then I have the gear to do it. Feel free to drop me a PM if you want a quote for it, or give someone like Callrova a call as they may be able to fix your current one.