P38 dse engine disabled

Grrrrrr · 2025-05-27T19:53:03+0100

BDC said:
I was thinking, what am I not getting here

I’v send a mail to les Edward’s, today explaining my situation.

The answer was brief: becm problem.

Any suggestions here where to send it of for repair with a reputable service?

@Marty_uk has been known to fix them but I don't think he's in the UK at the moment.

@Rick-the-Pick is the gold standard.

BDC · 2025-05-27T20:02:51+0100

Datatek said:
The aerial for the RF receiver has to be connected for this to work.
With the key in the ignition, if you open the drivers door, you should get a key in ignition message. There is a switch in the ignition barrel that signals the presence of the key. If it is stuck or not working i can cause problems.

I’ll check it tomorrow to wet outside right now.

RangeRoller dt · 2025-05-27T20:05:30+0100

Don’t squirt like wd40 or anything in the ignition barrel. It gums it up. Use a graphite spray or scribble on your key with a pencil, Itl lubricate it without residue

Datatek · 2025-05-28T07:23:10+0100

RangeRoller dt said:
Don’t squirt like wd40 or anything in the ignition barrel. It gums it up. Use a graphite spray or scribble on your key with a pencil, Itl lubricate it without residue

Contact cleaner spray cleans out any previously applied lubricants and dirt.

BDC · 2025-05-28T08:04:41+0100

BDC said:
I’ll check it tomorrow to wet outside right now.

Ok to answer the question for the message on the dash with the key in the ignition.
It does say “key in ignition” when opening the right door, passenger side for me but not for the left one. However I think that might have something to do with configuration in the becm.

Datatek · 2025-05-28T09:10:36+0100

BDC said:
Ok to answer the question for the message on the dash with the key in the ignition.
It does say “key in ignition” when opening the right door, passenger side for me but not for the left one. However I think that might have something to do with configuration in the becm.

It should operate on the drivers door so you BECM could be set to RHD. The BECM does seem to be doing it's stuff, as someone else said, I wonder if your Nanocom cable is OK. It is also possible that the Nano is corrupted if power has been removed whilst it's not at the home page or is executing a program.

pwood999 · 2025-05-28T09:38:43+0100

BDC said:
The becm is preventing to use the CDL motors until the lockout is cleared.

FYI, it's not the CDL Motor you need working. It is the CDL Microswitch you need to check.

The motor does the locking & unlocking, which you can simulate by locking manually.

The CDL Microswitch plus the Keyswitch are what tell the BECM to unlock & enable the engine. Verify these first.

BDC · 2025-05-28T10:02:40+0100

Datatek said:
It should operate on the drivers door so you BECM could be set to RHD. The BECM does seem to be doing it's stuff, as someone else said, I wonder if your Nanocom cable is OK. It is also possible that the Nano is corrupted if power has been removed whilst it's not at the home page or is executing a program.

I’ll check the lead later today. I have another question. If the becm is configured for rhd but it’s actually lhd with the keylock on the left will that be of influence for syncing the fob? Or disabling the immobiliser altogether?

BDC · 2025-05-28T11:56:40+0100

pwood999 said:
FYI, it's not the CDL Motor you need working. It is the CDL Microswitch you need to check.

The motor does the locking & unlocking, which you can simulate by locking manually.

The CDL Microswitch plus the Keyswitch are what tell the BECM to unlock & enable the engine. Verify these first.

Understood, I did the latch test with the sheet from Marty and i have normal results. Also I verified the cabling from the latch towards the outstation, I have good continuity. Then I did the latch test again measuring directly on the outstation. I can measure what I do with the cdl and the keyswitch. Of course the outstation talks with the becm via serialized comms so I think you cannot trace the cdl and keyswitch pins back to the becm. The intermediate connections in the door loom provide power for the window motor outstation and door amplifier and a few wires for the comms. Or is that wrong to think?

RangeRoller dt · 2025-05-28T12:22:36+0100

I can’t see the test sheet above on my device so I’m putting it here just incase. It gives a definitive pass or fail for each process.

BDC · 2025-05-28T13:36:58+0100

RangeRoller dt said:
I can’t see the test sheet above on my device so I’m putting it here just incase. It gives a definitive pass or fail for each process.
View attachment 342003 View attachment 342004

Found a few minutes tot re-test. Both old and new work well and pass all tests.

BDC · 2025-05-28T13:42:58+0100

Hi guys I have found the problem finally!

BDC · 2025-05-28T13:59:45+0100

As we speak the car is out of the alarm state and can be started!

First I want to thank everybody who chimed in with information and sharing their experiences.

Now the solution I hear you think.

So all the drivers door latch tests returned good results both old and new.

Symptoms:

Only able to open the drivers door with the keyblade , no working CDL. No working keyfob.
Opening the door sets of the alarm.

When datatek asked me to check if I got the key in ignition message I saw it was only there when I opened the passenger door, the right side door for me.
So it dawned on me that the car might be configured for right hand drive.
Therefore the car would expect the keyswitch to be at the right side which it is not obviously.
I was thinking then what would happen when I put the old latch with a keyswitch on the right side? Of course there is a wire missing so I thought to pull a cable between the latch and the right side outstation.

But then I remembered my loom wasn’t working that I bought from les Edward’s. Then it al started to make sense.

I attached the loom to the right outstation and performed the reset and instantaneous the doors opened.

Now I’m able to access diagnostic mode again on the becm.

Oh god I’m so happy I didn’t see the end of it at first.

Again thanks to all that aided in the repair it is much appreciated

marjon · 2025-05-28T14:06:48+0100

BDC said:
As we speak the car is out of the alarm state and can be started!

First I want to thank everybody who chimed in with information and sharing their experiences.

Now the solution I hear you think.

So all the drivers door latch tests returned good results both old and new.

Symptoms:

Only able to open the drivers door with the keyblade , no working CDL. No working keyfob.
Opening the door sets of the alarm.

When datatek asked me to check if I got the key in ignition message I saw it was only there when I opened the passenger door, the right side door for me.
So it dawned on me that the car might be configured for right hand drive.
Therefore the car would expect the keyswitch to be at the right side which it is not obviously.
I was thinking then what would happen when I put the old latch with a keyswitch on the right side? Of course there is a wire missing so I thought to pull a cable between the latch and the right side outstation.

But then I remembered my loom wasn’t working that I bought from les Edward’s. Then it al started to make sense.

I attached the loom to the right outstation and performed the reset and instantaneous the doors opened.

Now I’m able to access diagnostic mode again on the becm.

Oh god I’m so happy I didn’t see the end of it at first.

Again thanks to all that aided in the repair it is much appreciated

Thanks for the telling us, you have a result. We all come across something new everyday.
So is the BECM set to RHD or LHD woud be the next question, and should you change it to avoid future issues?

Now you can love it again

.

J

BDC · 2025-05-28T14:15:00+0100

marjon said:
Thanks for the telling us, you have a result. We all come across something new everyday.
So is the BECM set to RHD or LHD woud be the next question, and should you change it to avoid future issues?

Now you can love it again .

J

Yes that was the first thing I did

BDC · 2025-05-28T14:16:01+0100

BDC said:
Yes that was the first thing I did

I set it LHD now it was actually already supposed to be like that

marjon · 2025-05-28T14:16:42+0100

BDC said:
Yes that was the first thing I did

What love it again

.

J

BDC · 2025-05-28T14:26:09+0100

marjon said:
What love it again .

J

Well yeah on to the next repairs

transfer case needs replacing

RangeRoller dt · 2025-05-28T14:39:49+0100

And now you have a spare latch

Thanks for posting the result. Makes big difference for the next person that comes along

BDC · 2025-05-28T14:48:03+0100

RangeRoller dt said:
And now you have a spare latch

Thanks for posting the result. Makes big difference for the next person that comes along

Well it doesn't break the bank. I've read it would be better to replace both front latches. I'm glad there is an alternative to the original land rover ones that are quite expensive. If somebody can point me in the right direction for a lhd MG passenger latch for the p38 I'd appreciate it.

P38 dse engine disabled

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