Millertime_9
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No indicators or hazards
- Thread starter Millertime_9
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sierrafery
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I'd like to have some epiphany about that in my dreams to be able to give you a definitive answer cos it's complicated 
Millertime_9
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I am convinced we will crack itI'd like to have some epiphany about that in my dreams to be able to give you a definitive answer cos it's complicated
I've thought from the word go it's a wiring issue as opposed to component, so if I can get the wiring diagrams I'll hold it up to the auto electricians face and demand he fixes it Haha
おやすみなさい
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Hat's off to Sierrafery for all the efforts he is making to diagnose this problem at a distance. But he did say, and I think this might be hugely important, that it is essential to check the EARTH POINTS. We have all seen cars on the road whose brake lights light up when the indicator is supposed to be on, or similar faults. This is usually an earth fault. This might also account for why you have the same faults with two different fuse boxes.
Failing that, I would be tempted to find where all wires have been cut and then reconnect them, to the originals, i.e. put things back the way they should be from manufacture. In the process removing any extraneous wires added by the bodger.
Any faults that are in the system then should be diagnosable and mendable. If you cannot find, by visually looking for them, where the cables have been cut, look for wires with the same colour indicators in them, i,e blue with a white stripe or whatever, using a wiring diagram to ensure that one end of the wire should be connected to the other end of the same wire, and not to any others. Then disconnect, the battery, pull all the plugs and test each wire individually, from pin to pin. If for some reason you cannot get to the pin, stick a needle through one end of the insulation in a wire to touch the copper core, then if necessary, do the same at the other end of the wire. Then put your meter to "resistance" smallest reading and touch the two probes to the two needles. This should show no, or a tiny, resistance if the wire is whole, i,e, connected, not cut. If you get no reading then you know the wire has been cut and you can search for the cut or break. Once you have found all the cuts/breaks, mended them and insulated them, you can then put all the plugs back in, reconnect the battery and go from there. If you can only disconnect the plug on one end of the wire be aware that each test is connecting one end of the wire to whatever else it is connected to.
By the way, do not forget that where a wire connects to something in a door, it has to pass through the gap between the door and the door pillar. Here the wires have to bend and although they are protected by special insulation, it is a weak point. Relatively easy to check though, just pop the fat insulation that covers the wires between door and post and check each wire very carefully.
What I have just told you is unbelievably basic as I am a real novice at electrics, but I get the feeling that is where you are too, or am I am wrong?
It may be time consuming, but if you take it logically and methodically, and go for the wires to the problem areas first, you will love it every time you find a cut or broken wire and fix it, even if all you use is a choc-block just to begin with.
Also, check to see if any wires have crossed, worn through their insulation near another one, or if connection pins have bent and are touching. If it was me, as pairs of items have a problem, I would start by taking the shrouding off the steering column and looking all around the stalk switches.
You can also check to see if a wire has a short to earth, simply find a good earth point then put one probe to it and the other to a terminal pin on a wire or as explained before, to a needle in a wire. If you find a reading indicating a connection to earth where there should not be one, then you need to inspect that wire until you find where it has accidentally made a connection with earth, through a grommet for example.
Even if you cannot find the fault, then, if the proper wires are all connected properly, then you have got rid of the botches and bodges. So proper procedures by an auto-electrician should be quick and easy.
This is time consuming and a bit of a pain, but as it seems likely that the fault is going to be something like this, then what you have that is free, is time. Or you pay another guy to do this.
Sierrafery or another member with more electrical know-how than me might have a better idea. I'm sure they will jump in and say so. I am sitting here waiting for any ribbing I might get!
Failing that, I would be tempted to find where all wires have been cut and then reconnect them, to the originals, i.e. put things back the way they should be from manufacture. In the process removing any extraneous wires added by the bodger.
Any faults that are in the system then should be diagnosable and mendable. If you cannot find, by visually looking for them, where the cables have been cut, look for wires with the same colour indicators in them, i,e blue with a white stripe or whatever, using a wiring diagram to ensure that one end of the wire should be connected to the other end of the same wire, and not to any others. Then disconnect, the battery, pull all the plugs and test each wire individually, from pin to pin. If for some reason you cannot get to the pin, stick a needle through one end of the insulation in a wire to touch the copper core, then if necessary, do the same at the other end of the wire. Then put your meter to "resistance" smallest reading and touch the two probes to the two needles. This should show no, or a tiny, resistance if the wire is whole, i,e, connected, not cut. If you get no reading then you know the wire has been cut and you can search for the cut or break. Once you have found all the cuts/breaks, mended them and insulated them, you can then put all the plugs back in, reconnect the battery and go from there. If you can only disconnect the plug on one end of the wire be aware that each test is connecting one end of the wire to whatever else it is connected to.
By the way, do not forget that where a wire connects to something in a door, it has to pass through the gap between the door and the door pillar. Here the wires have to bend and although they are protected by special insulation, it is a weak point. Relatively easy to check though, just pop the fat insulation that covers the wires between door and post and check each wire very carefully.
What I have just told you is unbelievably basic as I am a real novice at electrics, but I get the feeling that is where you are too, or am I am wrong?
It may be time consuming, but if you take it logically and methodically, and go for the wires to the problem areas first, you will love it every time you find a cut or broken wire and fix it, even if all you use is a choc-block just to begin with.
Also, check to see if any wires have crossed, worn through their insulation near another one, or if connection pins have bent and are touching. If it was me, as pairs of items have a problem, I would start by taking the shrouding off the steering column and looking all around the stalk switches.
You can also check to see if a wire has a short to earth, simply find a good earth point then put one probe to it and the other to a terminal pin on a wire or as explained before, to a needle in a wire. If you find a reading indicating a connection to earth where there should not be one, then you need to inspect that wire until you find where it has accidentally made a connection with earth, through a grommet for example.
Even if you cannot find the fault, then, if the proper wires are all connected properly, then you have got rid of the botches and bodges. So proper procedures by an auto-electrician should be quick and easy.
This is time consuming and a bit of a pain, but as it seems likely that the fault is going to be something like this, then what you have that is free, is time. Or you pay another guy to do this.
Sierrafery or another member with more electrical know-how than me might have a better idea. I'm sure they will jump in and say so. I am sitting here waiting for any ribbing I might get!
Millertime_9
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Fantastic post
On that note, where are the earth points that would relate to the interior fuse box, ergo indicators and windows?
These pics tell you anything?
Idm voltage showing 0 not weird?
2 screen readings and last one anything look off there?
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sierrafery
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Hmmm... interesting... it's possible that the serial data link between the BCU and IDM is interrupted then and that's the cause of all the problems as the IDM has no direct connection to the diagnostics, it's diagnosed through the BCU based on inputs through the data link but if in reality the IDM has no ignition feed nothing related to it would work . A continuity test on that path is needed
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Mate, I get the feeling you are looking for everything to be handed to you on a plate. Get a Haynes manual, or download RAVE, get out in the car, pull up carpets and remove the protection in the footwells. Look for the earthing points, they should be reasonably obvious.
I am not going to comment on the rest of this post, I leave that to others with a bit more knowledge than me.
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Hmmmmm, a continuity test, are you reading this, OP? You know how to do this now!
Millertime_9
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So sorry are you saying it sounds like the idm isnt actually getting any power?
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Millertime_9
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You've got a strange manner about you mate, not quite worked you out yet
I know absolutely nothing and rely on help here to relay (lol) thr info back to the auto electrician
So yes, I suppose I do need spoonfed this stuff because it's not second nature to me but then, what's the problem with that?
We can't all know everything
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What he is meaning is get yourself DMM if you've not already got one and get checking use manuals to check earth points you will not get anywhere with these vehicles by not starting to understand the basics...it will cost a fortune to keep sending it to a garage...so you need to ask here and try to sort yourself...your auto electrition has spent how long on it and probably fed up with you relaying info from here to him...
sierrafery
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No, IMO it gets power just that it might be a comunication issue between the IDM and BCU and the tester doesnt see the IDM's power input even though it's there, IDM without power would not let the front wipers to work at all except the fast wipe ,...very strange...btw can you see the blue icon on the dash if you switch on the main beam?
You mean can his auto electrition see it!...
Millertime_9
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Ok so if there is a communication issue between the bcu and idm which is most likely at fault?
I just went out to check the blue light with main beam
Again, that only comes on the dash when I put on the wipers!
The blue light comes on and briefly goes off then back on right away
I also think I can hear a "hum" from behind the clocks when ignition is on
Millertime_9
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Haha I'm just the translator here yeah
And actually the auto electrician is brilliant, he had it for 6 hours today and didn't charge a penny because he didn't fix it
He was happy with me taking pics of his reader ti get advice from you fine gentlemen
sierrafery
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I sent you PM
I have an interest in a workshop here in Portugal although I actually make chocolate for a living...my mate is a time served diagnostic tech and we don't charge anything till the fault is fixed either but the bill clocks up at 50€ per hour while we sort it...there is an awfull lot of money tied up in equipment in the workshop and upgrading the diag computer every year is not cheap...so I can't understand how your getting it for free?...
This is not really a help post as I cannot offer anything more than these brave guys are doing already. The OP is lucky to have you guys as most people would just walk away from this riddle.
Anyways, after going through the whole thread, I think it begs the question - why would someone do something like that to a vehicle that was already fitted with central locking, alarm system, immobiliser, etc. ? Wouldn't it have been simpler and perhaps even cheaper in the long run to keep to the original specs ? But in particular, why would one retrofit a central locking system ? Is there something the seller knows which nobody else does ? Of course, no offence to the OP as I really wish him luck in his endeavours to resolve the issue. But it seems to me that there may be a number of possibly serious issues that the seller may not have disclosed. Unfortunately, buying from a private seller usually works on the legal principle of caveat emptor or "buyer beware" and you are not afforded any form of protection under law as when you buy from a second hand car dealer. But there are exceptions such as when you are misled into buying a vehicle with factory-fitted central locking when it's not ("new central locking remotes" is not the same as replaced / modified central locking system). If I were you, I'd keep a full copy of that ad before it's removed !
Anyways, after going through the whole thread, I think it begs the question - why would someone do something like that to a vehicle that was already fitted with central locking, alarm system, immobiliser, etc. ? Wouldn't it have been simpler and perhaps even cheaper in the long run to keep to the original specs ? But in particular, why would one retrofit a central locking system ? Is there something the seller knows which nobody else does ? Of course, no offence to the OP as I really wish him luck in his endeavours to resolve the issue. But it seems to me that there may be a number of possibly serious issues that the seller may not have disclosed. Unfortunately, buying from a private seller usually works on the legal principle of caveat emptor or "buyer beware" and you are not afforded any form of protection under law as when you buy from a second hand car dealer. But there are exceptions such as when you are misled into buying a vehicle with factory-fitted central locking when it's not ("new central locking remotes" is not the same as replaced / modified central locking system). If I were you, I'd keep a full copy of that ad before it's removed !
Millertime_9
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Despite numerous attempts by another poster to de-rail the thread, sierrafery is thankfully still helping me and we have worked out that the problem is with the standard feed to the idm
So, it's a case of checking the wiring there
If this is the problem with the indicators then it will have been the problem with the central locking which led the owner to have an after market one added
The difference here is that with sierraferys amazing help, we may have got to the bottom of the main problem , something the original owner wasnt able to
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