New Classic VCU fail suspected, remove prop?

Hello,

Picked up a 91 Vogue SE today, bought off Ebay. Nice car, 105k miles. New tailgates, tidy body. Needs drivers floor patching, and attention to boot floor but sills appear good and chassis is tip top. Did the 100 mile journey home without a hitch, until i got off the motorway and home where I noticed that it was scrubbing on tight turn. I hadn't done the VCU test (stupid me!) so suspect this might be the issue. Apart from slow speed scrub/chirp there are no noises, vibrations etc so am hoping no other damage.

I have a couple of questions which I couldn't find answers for searching this forum and the web in general. Is changing the VCU a DIY job? I'm ok with spanners but only for an amateur (changed the suspension and brakes on last RRC) and don't have any specialist kit? How many hours labour would it be for a garage to do? Is there a cheaper place to replace than Ashcroft Transmissions?

Am i likely to have bu**ered anything else up?
Finally, should I remove the front or rear prop to avoid (further) damage? It's not my main car so don't have to use it although am desperate to!

Thanks for help

Yours, daft newbie!

Hiya

I had same when I bought mine.

After a lot of searching round I decided ashcroft was the best bet.

It is a DIY job but is quite awkward and I've got a pit in the garage.... I wouldn't fancy doing it on the drive. Also can be quite hard to get the new VCU in, but I got there in the end.

Good luck.

Thanks - had you done any other damage? Nervous my new motor may need a lot more than some plating and welding!

I wouldn't be too worried (famous last words lol) - I didn't do any other damage to mine.

The VCU is so expensive though...... but the rangey drove a lot better once I'd replaced it

http://macassemble.com/lrm/general_overhaul/Borg Warner Transfer Box.pdf
Look in 'Overhaul' menu then 'Viscous coupling unit'

Thanks for that, might be one for an expert...i don't even have a torque wrench

Cheers

you dont have to have a torque wrench ,the most awkward bit is removing rhs side transmission mount,it should take a garage less than an hour ,try it by jacking one front wheel up box in neutral with a bar and socket on a wheel nut ,if wheel wont turn remove the front prop

Ok, so i have confirmed the viscous coupling is knackered...at least I know. Halfords special socket set is too fat to sit on the propshaft bolts so will have to leave it on and wait until it can be done at the garage.

Had a really good look around today. It's in very good condition internally. Everything works and the leather has no rips or bad wear. Headlining shot of course but this has fallen quite a lot further down my priority list!

Some rust on the front doors which i need to treat with rust inhibitor. Underneath the chassis is excellent and sills are, thankfully solid, albeit with some patching. N/s inner wing requires a repair panel; o/s footwell needs a patch; boot floor and spare wheel well both have a hole in them and at some point i think the o/s seat belt mount will need a repair. I am hoping (praying) that this might be do-able within about £300.

Hopefully the VCU fitted might be under £400 and with the welding done i will be still under £2000 for then what will hopefully be a very solid, lowish mileage tidy RR...until the next load of work is needed

Thanks for your help so far. Am sure i'll be back on here soon, and will stick some photos up

Dont you own any spanners then for prop bolts ? Never managed to get a socket on my prop bolts yet, always used spanners.

Yep, i do, although I was very tight on space having decided not to trust my 30 year old rusty axle stands so was doing it without the car jacked up at all. If I can't get it in the garage this week, i'll get some decent stands and have another go with the spanners.

Remove front prop - use spanners or buy the proper tool. It is easier if you put it on axle stands or use a pair of ramps or if you really have to, drive up on to concrete blocks to give you a bit of room under it (make sure the hand brake works and chock rear wheels)

You might find it is cheaper to get hold of a used transfer box rather than a new VC.

Cheers, there are a couple of VC's on Ebay, one wth Venom 4x4. At under £100 its 250 less than a new one. Worth the risk? Do these items have a shelf life?

It would appear as though a viscous coupling would be easier to change than the whole transfer box?

Whatever you do don't be tempted to save £ by fitting a second-hand VCU. I tried that approach once & got my fingers burnt - serves me right, got my £ back for the unit (bought from a specialist breaker) but had to write off the labour costs.

You're right. Ordering new one tomorrow. At least i know its good for another 100,000 miles then!

AdamHarley said:

You're right. Ordering new one tomorrow. At least i know its good for another 100,000 miles then!

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I think you may be over-estimating the projected life of an VCU Adam but at least you have the right approach.

I'm sure you're right, at least hopefully it will see me right for a few years if i only do 2000 to 3000 a year!

I am desperate to drive it as i've only really done the journey home for fear of doing more damage. Hoping it will be fixed early next week. Then for the welding, but at least i will be able to drive it in the meantime.

I love seeing it when i come home at night and can't wait to take it shooting...seems the perfect environment for it!

Good evening ladies and gentlemen

Sadly we get vcu failures in the Freelander section. Often the advice given is to burn it. Not the vcu, the whole car. It's not the best advice but it shouldn't be ruled out as an option.

or get ones chauffuer to do it

Freelaner said:

or get ones chauffuer to do it

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Peace and quiet in ere from the tratterers. Nice to know we int the only ones with vcu trouble.

Hippo said:

Peace and quiet in ere from the tratterers. Nice to know we int the only ones with vcu trouble.

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i wunt wish it on anyone tbh

but LR didn't just put crap gear in the FL, they shared it amongst the upper echelons too