Disco 1 More central locking issues!

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K2tnt

K2tnt

Well-Known Member
Posts
188
Finally got back round to trying to get the remote central locking kit to my 200tdi.

Followed advice from forum a while ago about connecting to the pink and orange wires, but the motors just make a small blip noise one way then blow fuse the other!

As I’m a bit fed up of the crappy motors which keep failing anyway, I may just replace the lot with one of these kits.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360394597855

You can buy and fit an extra motor for these for the 5th door too.

Do you reckon this would work? Or any ideas why wiring remote kit keeps blowing fuses?
 
K2tnt said:
Finally got back round to trying to get the remote central locking kit to my 200tdi.

Followed advice from forum a while ago about connecting to the pink and orange wires, but the motors just make a small blip noise one way then blow fuse the other!

As I’m a bit fed up of the crappy motors which keep failing anyway, I may just replace the lot with one of these kits.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360394597855

You can buy and fit an extra motor for these for the 5th door too.

Do you reckon this would work? Or any ideas why wiring remote kit keeps blowing fuses?
Click to expand...

First of all you need to identify the central local system that’s fitted to you vehicle...I can’t see that u have stated that.

The early 200 series had the basic central locking straight from the early RR parts bin, so a master actuator plus the four slaves, later on an ECU was fitted which included and alarm/immobiliser, central locking with a master actuator and four slaves plus the option of remote function So what does your vehicle have. ?

Picture below is the basic four wire master actuator (it has a pink and orange wire) which I removed from my RR years ago, when fitting a Cobra security system, other than installing the ECU, sounder and additional wiring the only changes was replacing the actuator for a six wire actuator and living the slaves and wiring in situ. So in the end I now has a security system with remote control locking.

The bottom line is that it’s simple to replace actuators or even repair them, depending on your engineering skills :)
 

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Thanks for reply- pretty certain I have the earlier system as have no remote or immobiliser and 4 wire actuator.

What’s odd is the fuse blows even when I’m testing the wiring- I’ve bypassed the kit and just tried a live/earth feed connected for a “blip” to the pink/orange wires and it blows the fuse rather than activating the locking?!
 
K2tnt said:
Thanks for reply- pretty certain I have the earlier system as have no remote or immobiliser and 4 wire actuator.

What’s odd is the fuse blows even when I’m testing the wiring- I’ve bypassed the kit and just tried a live/earth feed connected for a “blip” to the pink/orange wires and it blows the fuse rather than activating the locking?!
Click to expand...
So what’s the kit you have bypassed? U only have a master and slave actuators, the orange and pink continues from one slave to the other and onwards so simple to test each conductor for a short, break or earth fault, and if okay then carefully supplying 12v + and - will operate the four slaves open or close simultaneously depending on their existing state, which is all the master does.
 
Thanks for input- I’ll have a go at that. Someone on Project Jay group on Facebook had managed it with his 200tdi so it must be possible!

Cheers!
 
Ah! Got somewhere. Bloke on Project Jay Facebook page said he used a different drivers door motor.

Makes sense really as the drivers door hasn’t actually got a motor in it- it’s just an actuator. So I plan to fit the kit I’ve got and unlock drivers door by hand until I can find a combined motor/actuator unit.
 
Doesnt make too much sense IF you want the motors to work from the fob cos if you watch carefully the diagram you can see that all the motors are in parallel on the O and K wires from C274, the driver's door "actuator" is there to activate the central locking on modells where the command for all the other doors is managed through the driver's door with the key switching the feed from F4 and ground through split points S2007 and on those there is no output from C274 if you see what i mean
 
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I just disconnected the drivers door actuator and connected the orange/pink wires to the positive and negative wires just now and all the doors locked and unlocked fine. The drivers door didn’t as it was disconnected.

I think the master in the diagram above has a motor in it, whereas mine doesn’t, it’s just an actuator not a motor.
 
K2tnt said:
I just disconnected the drivers door actuator and connected the orange/pink wires to the positive and negative wires just now and all the doors locked and unlocked fine. The drivers door didn’t as it was disconnected.

I think the master in the diagram above has a motor in it, whereas mine doesn’t, it’s just an actuator not a motor.
Click to expand...
Yes, i think you've figured it out now, though IMO it has the motor but it has a short circuit hence the blowing fuse
 
K2tnt said:
I just disconnected the drivers door actuator and connected the orange/pink wires to the positive and negative wires just now and all the doors locked and unlocked fine. The drivers door didn’t as it was disconnected.

I think the master in the diagram above has a motor in it, whereas mine doesn’t, it’s just an actuator not a motor.
Click to expand...
The question is how do you control the opening of the doors ? Is it with a key or is it remotely with a fob.
If it's with the key then only remaining four door will lock unlock via central locking along with the drivers door via connection rod. With a fob then all five doors will lock and unlock but u need an ECU for that.
Also all the central locking actuators have an electric motor.
 
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Currently the doors only work with key. Haynes manual for early Discos circuit diagram shows the drivers actuator as not having a motor, whereas later one does.

Anyway, planning on replacing drivers motor with a slave unit so the only way to activate central locking will be with fob when I’ve wired it in. At least until I can find an actuator with built in motor.

Thanks for help! By the way someone earlier mentioned repairing motors- is this doable? How do you open them up?
 
K2tnt said:
Currently the doors only work with key. Haynes manual for early Discos circuit diagram shows the drivers actuator as not having a motor, whereas later one does.

Anyway, planning on replacing drivers motor with a slave unit so the only way to activate central locking will be with fob when I’ve wired it in. At least until I can find an actuator with built in motor.

Thanks for help! By the way someone earlier mentioned repairing motors- is this doable? How do you open them up?
Click to expand...
It's so simple I don't know why u haven't already done the job. :)
With using a fob u need a master not a slave.

Then your after a five wire actuator, or the six wire will do the alarm wire is then redundant.
For the early disco and RR the master actuator is operated via a steel rod connected to the lock, so turn the key so operates the actuator and the micro switch switches a 12v to the slaves.

The actuator is repairable depending on you skills. They are not designed to be repairable as the case has to be split open alone the case seam. I haD one that the motor was seized so open the case and freed the motor to get it spinning again, then stuck the case together. With the master if there was an issue with the micro switch contacts it may or may not be repaired, so Just get a replacement.
 
All done, thanks!

Think something has fused or gone wrong in drivers door motor/actuator or whatever as only way to make it work was replace with a slave unit I had lying around, so key won’t operate central locking till I find a replacement.

Anyway it works now, even wired up indicators to flash!

Thanks for help.
 
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