MHM Lecky fan fitting in piccies

The Mad Hat Man said:

dont the Kenlowe cool it?

maybe if the Kenlowe only cuts in when the temp gets in the red - yu need to consider repositioning the thermo switch - as per previous discussions - unless yu can alter the switching temp - in whuch case turn it down a notch.

impellers can become loose - but its very uncommon.

One of the tricks used to clear crud out of the cooling system is to put in a dose of dishwasher liquid (gotta be liquid, not powder) . Yu dont want it in too long, coz its corrosive - but its damn good at clearing out crud and oilly deposits n stuff - not blockages, but it cleans the system really well.

Click to expand...

the fan does cool it and yes i could turn down the "on" temp so it comes on earlier - it's the change in behaviour that's got me stumped

normally if you watched the temp guage it would rise to just past vertical and then settle back to just before vertical - this is as i'd expect ie stat opens when temp gets to whatever (88?) then flows through rad and cools

whereas now (if i'm booting it) it doesnt drop back after passing the vertical and continues to increase untill the kenlowe kicks in

from the sound of it i now think the rad isnt doing what it should do - might have another go at flushing it using your tip

I wud still turn the switch temp down to just below red.
Unfortunately these temp gauges are notoriously inaccurate. I reckon the only way to do it proper is to get a thermocouple and check accurately what the temp is.

I does sound like the air flow thru the rad aint enuf to cool the system on its own. try and scrounge another rad and see for any differences.

i'm pretty sure it's the rad now

had a couple of type K's shoved in the top and bott hose - top hose shows a rapid increase from ambient to 80+ after about 10 miles of being driven hard, this is consistant with the stat opening correctly

but

allmost immedialty after the water in the top hose goes high so does the water temp in the bottom hose (probably less than 5 degrees cooler) - so it looks like water is flowing through the rad, but not through enough of it to have any effect on the water temp

i might rig up me jet washer to back flush it just to see if i cant dislodge anything - i knew i shouldnt have put it all back together properly

Good Luck Sean - i need to get a couple of type K's as well sometime - its the only way to do the job properly.

cheers

i'll probably end up putting one of these inline with both the top and bott hose, maybe a bit OTT but forwarned is forearmed

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or one of these in the bott hose - i think these would be a more elegant solution as it would allow my 2 speed fan to be used as it was intended ie to turn on if the water out the bottom hose exceeds 88 degrees (which it would only do if the rad was up to it) - and then turn the fan into turbo mode if the water temp hits 92 degrees, there'd be a bit of a failsafe builtin using this

X-eng High Performance Off-Road Engineering

but then i was happy with the "standard" way it worked previoulsy so if me second rad flush works i'll be happy again

Before yu do that - look at post 45! - I have just done that and had hells only job of fitting a 35mm fitting in the hose - I reckon a 28-30mm would be better. The one you mention is 40mm!

yer i wuz gonna get me tape out first, thought 40mm sounded a bit too big

just as a follow-up - took the Dibnah out for a spin - with the switch now mounted in the top rad hose - it works brilliantly - just as it should (or more precisely as I think it should - must check actual temperature switching sometime.

I think the lesson to be learned is - mount the switch in a similar position to the vehicle it came out of, because the switch temp will be rated for that position.

sounds like your sorted now, but you might want to add one of these to your xmas prezzy list, twin inputs and Tdiff button - cheap and cheerfull, takes standard type k sensors, but it's excellent for seeing what the temp diff is between your top and bott hoses - and all sorts of other things

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sounds ideal - tiz on list

new rad and yu will be sorted too.

just as a point - the fan only comes on if I leave it sitting idling fur about 5 mins - nevver comes on in normal use, so the Dibnah appears to be overcooled with a 2.5 petrol lump in it.

Sorry to jump on this thread, I've read through it all and been reading up on electric fans all night..


Do you remember how you did the wiring at all?...

If i was to do what you did the only thing i wouldn't be sure on would be the wiring..

Did you wire a switch in so that you could choose between the thermostat powering the fan or constantly on and or off?

also did you bother with a relay or not?

Yes I used a relay.
I wired the thermostatic switch via a 3 position switch in the dash, so I had via thermostat/ off/ on continuously. This was done so that I could turn it off for wading, or have it on if the thermostat failed.

i know its pushing it but i don't suppose you have a wiring diagram or could draw a basic one up for me?

Im converting my dead 19j in my 90 to a 200 tdi so I've rang a peugeot breakers today and i can pick up the parts i need for £20 so wednesday when I'm off work I'm going to get the parts

Also did the fan you put on have a slow speed and high speed or was it just 1 speed?

IamRobbie said:

Also did the fan you put on have a slow speed and high speed or was it just 1 speed?

Click to expand...

just one speed.

ty, going to try and find a basic wiring diagram to follow

Ok good old youtube..

Ive looked it up,

to wire up a relay

85 on the relay to ignition(or switch position on the button that is for the auto fan option)
86 on the relay to thermostat
87 on the relay to the + on the elec fan
ground wire on fan on chassis
30 on the relay to battery 45a fuse inline (so youtube says)
ground switch inside cab
put a perm feed onto wire from thermostat cable (going to 86 for override.)