MHM Lecky fan fitting in piccies

you should be able to solder the part with the switch on to yer landy rad. but i know from past experience just how easy it is to over heat the fooker and end up with a pile of rad bits at yer feet.

take it to a rad rebuilder and get them to do it fer yer

nope - dont wanna do that - coz it wud make the rad "speshul" - just in case it needs to be changed - I am tryin to alter as little as possible. I reckon a piece of copper 1.5"ish tube with a hole in the side and the nut soldered on the inside wud do the job. mounted in one of the hoses. that wud mean a hose wud have to be cut - but that is a lot cheaper than havin the rad modified.

what size thread is that sensor. yer might be able to fit it into a 3/4" tee from a plumbers merchants and stick the tee inline wiv a rad hose.

Summat like this was what I had in mind this ones got a 1" female thread on it but they do others or a vist to a local pipefitters might turn summat similar up.

iz too small for a rad hose - they is about 1.5".

here is my "Bodgit" fix fur the mo. I have bedded the switch onto the radiator with some computer heat sink compound to allow good thermal transfer and some threadlock on the thread of the switch to (hopefully) stop it coming undone.

good ol' metal mastic - eh?

S'good enuff. My leccy fan senors is araldited on & they've worked fine for a good few farsand miles now.

nice one! i pinched a lectric fan of my wee bro the other week to fit to me landy, i'v not got all the plastic coweling stuff so it'l not be all that efficient, though i think it'll be better than the 4 trowels that my perkins spins roond the noo!!

Have yer fitted an ovver ride switch in the cab?

lol (soz Slob)

No I aint wired up the cab - but I got it wired up under the bonnet - 3 position switch - off/on via thermo switch/on. Seems to work fine - all I need now is sum water, a bracket to (temp) mount the switch on - and give it a run.

re "i'v not got all the plastic coweling stuff" - I wanted that - cos it reduces water ingress when fording (I hope) - mind yu - still no breathers yet.

Int that the whole idea of a leccy fan so as you can turn it off when things get a bit moist.

GRUNT said:

Int that the whole idea of a leccy fan so as you can turn it off when things get a bit moist.

Click to expand...

Er, Grunt, ee' sed ee's gunna do that bit.

The Mad Hat Man said:

lol (soz Slob)

No I aint wired up the cab - but I got it wired up under the bonnet - 3 position switch - off/on via thermo switch/on. Seems to work fine - all I need now is sum water, a bracket to (temp) mount the switch on - and give it a run.

re "i'v not got all the plastic coweling stuff" - I wanted that - cos it reduces water ingress when fording (I hope) - mind yu - still no breathers yet.

Click to expand...

duz this answer yo Q, Grunt?

Grippa - I have also de-loomed the engine bay - or at least the loom thats not being used.

Oh aye I want listin, soz.

Tried it all yest morning. Auto function dint work. I reckon either the switch is set to too high a temp or the switch is too far away from the main water flow or the switch aint pickin up the temp proper.

Plan B - as Plan A fur the thermo switch dint work. Too far away from hottest water I reckon. So bought myself a 35x35x28mm "T" piece, although in retrospect yu could possibly get away with a 28x28x28. soldered nut from Pug rad to side branch. Cut thro top rad hose and fitted in there. Switching now all inside cab too - so hope this works a bit betterer.

where's the temp sensor ? the pic looks like it's in the top hose - shoundt it be in yer bott hose ?

as i understand it - the hottest water comes out the top hose - so the fan switch needs to be in there.

looks good. Daft.

If you know what size the plug thread is you could probably get a tee fitting to suit from a plumbers merchant or pipe fitting/hydraulic hose supplier. For anyone thinking of doing this but not sure about their plumbing abilities.

similar to this

i can't remember how the series cooling work, can't see it being any diff the me 110

water wunt flow through yer rad untill it gets hot enough to open yer thermostat - water then flows through yer rad (so it's gonna be right hot on the top hose) - it cools as it goes through yer rad so the bott hose is gonna be much cooler - if the temp of the water coming outta the bott of yer rad is simillar to that going in, either yer rad isnt doing it's job, or is maxed out - thens the time when yer sensor should switch on yer leccy fan and help yer rad

i tried the switch into a few plumbing fitting whilst at the shop - it dint fit any - close but not exatly the same - which is why i went fur soldering.