Magnatec Oil? Worth it?

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jamesmartin said:
using decent blades in your hacksaw will make a very big difference than the £1 pop cheap blades,halfords calling it professional set when they mean reasonable for the money
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good point - some of their stuff is rubbish - but then I have had rubbish from Snap-On. My point was that yu dont need a Snap-on saw or a gold plated one. It wont make it cut any better.

All manufacturers make good stuff and some ****e, depending on how it is used. If you only ever use a 52mm socket to hand tighten wheel bearing nuts then a Chinese one is as good as a Stahlwille

lets face it - if you only ever bought the most expensive "coz its the best", who would ever buy a rangie? :bolt:
 
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The Mad Hat Man said:
I aint promoting Halfrauds, per se, just I get really ****ed off when a "professional" tells me my stuff is ****e, made of cheese and wont last 2 minutes.
The tool, any tool, is only part of the story, it is how it is used, using the right tool for the job and other criteria all play their part. Yeah, sure, use a cheap Chinese socket on a 450Nm air ratchet and it will shatter, use a screwdriver as a chisel and it wont last long. Use the correct tool for the job, used sympathetically (and by that i mean know its limits and yours) and used correctly and your tools will last a long time.
We have all seen someone attacking a piece of steel with a hacksaw - going 90 to the dozen, waving the top all over the place and breaking blades left, right and centre - having a Stahlwill or snap-on saw wont make them any better, or reduce the number of blades they get through. Using a B&Q saw correctly, with the correct blade for the size and type of material will last a lot longer.
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Dear me mad you are going off on a tangent. Someone on here said he had treated himself to a 90 piece "Professional" socket/tool set from Halfrauds. I must agree have seen them and they look ok on the face of it. But just because Halfrauds name them "professional" it does not mean they are. I mearley pointed out that at £59.00 it can hardly be a "professional" quality socket/tool set. And stated how much a real "professional" quality socket set costs. You buy whatever tools you want to buy. Personally i would not pay that sort of money for them either, because i don't use them enough these days. But i don't need to i already have them from long ago. And my lad will have them when i am long gone. Think he is slowly moving them to his place anyway. But they are still the best you can get along with Snapon.
 
true blue point snap on stuff isnt alot better than some others but is called budget range and is still better than a lot of higher other makes
 
A "professional" set is a set used "professionally". It doesnt matter what you call it. I for one, dont buy any of it coz its called "professional". I buy it because it is cost-effective (not cheap). I can get any failures changed easily (and yes - sometimes on a weekend), and I get very few failures. I accept that I dont use the 4.5mm long reach socket every hour, but then, who does?
 
jamesmartin said:
true blue point snap on stuff isnt alot better than some others but is called budget range and is still better than a lot of higher other makes
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Armstrong tools from the states are very good but also expensive. With their 1/4 ratchet costing two or three times the price of a full 1/4 socket set from the cheap lines like Draper. Stahlwille 1/4 drive sockets and Torx Lok stuff are in a totally different class to the cheap stuff. But you buy what you need i suppose.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
A "professional" set is a set used "professionally". It doesnt matter what you call it. I for one, dont buy any of it coz its called "professional". I buy it because it is cost-effective (not cheap). I can get any failures changed easily (and yes - sometimes on a weekend), and I get very few failures. I accept that I dont use the 4.5mm long reach socket every hour, but then, who does?
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I'm not calling it anything, Halfrauds are. They imply it is professional quality, suitable for everyday sustained hard use by a professional mechanic. Which judged on what a proper professional quality set costs is bull****. If it was as good as Snapon/Stahlwille for £59.00 then they would be out of business. Come on get real.
 
wammers said:
I'm not calling it anything, Halfrauds are. They imply it is professional quality, suitable for everyday sustained hard use by a professional mechanic. Which judged on what a proper professional quality set costs is bull****. If it was as good as Snapon/Stahlwille for £59.00 then they would be out of business. Come on get real.
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sounds a bit like tool snobbery to me.:rolleyes:
 
I got one of these Halfords | Halfords 40 piece Socket Set probably 20yrs old now used on all my cars and on tractors and agrigultural machinery, in anger inorl, and still going strong. Only had to replace the 13mm socket. Also got 10, 11, 12mm pro spanners which are as good as quality as a blue point 13mm spanner.

All this is tool snobbery, trying to justify spending lots on tools. All career 'professional' mechanics buy snap-on because they overcharge the punters then spend it on tools to off-set the vat bill.
 
Coming back to the engine oil in commercial engines, a lot of company lorry or bus depots have centrifuges to keep oil clean and extend its life. Large lorries will often have an onboard system that bypasses from the sump, maybe just 10% and spins out any suspended deposits/swarf, what have you. Same for marine engines and stationary ones. When oil is "used" and goes dark in colour it hasn't actually changed too much in composition, its just saturated with rubbish from the engine so if you have a way to separate it out you get back to nice clean oil.
 
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rasheed said:
Coming back to the engine oil in commercial engines, a lot of company lorry or bus depots have centrifuges to keep oil clean and extend its life. Large lorries will often have an onboard system that bypasses from the sump, maybe just 10% and spins out any suspended deposits/swarf, what have you. Same for marine engines and stationary ones. When oil is "used" and goes dark in colour it hasn't actually changed too much in composition, its just saturated with rubbish from the engine so if you have a way to separate it out you get back to nice clean oil.
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moisture and acid are the worst for oil. Short trips engine and the oil not getting up to temp. this cause condensation in the oil and improper shut down of the diesel is bad also epically bad for the turbo.Should let idle for 2-3 minutes to cool down and slow down on the high rpm speed of the turbo,lack of oil to bearings is bad for turbo.
 
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