Disco 2 M+S flashing on TD5 Auto ES

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K

Kaijun

Active Member
Posts
238
Location
Berkshire, U. K.
Recently, I have experienced intermittent M+S flashing on my 2004 D2 TD5 basically when switching to reverse. When It happened, I felt my engine had a bit shaking than normally. I have 3 years' BulletBatt battery (CCA 930A), and drove about once a week for last two years for WFH, it is still powerful to start engine quickly. I checked it has 12.7v. I also cleaned oily red connector. There is no fault error on Nanocom, Nanocom can indicate wxyz on/off are changed as I shift PRND321. After reading loads of write up, It seems the issue points to xyz switch. Did I miss something else to check? or check something when M+S is flashing? Any ideas are welcome.
 
Likely one of the contacts has gone in your xyz switch. Remove it and open it up to check. Replace your reverse light bulbs to led and then either repair or replace the switch.
You can re solder a burnt out connector on the black switches. The beige ones are usually non serviceable unless you have in depth electrical knowledge.
 
I forgot to mention, after I restart engine, M+S flashing is gone. I checked my xyz switch under the truck, a big exhaust is on the way, can someone manage to remove it without moving the exhaust? apart of that, the switch case looks like black. As I remember someone said, from 2003 it is white case with micro-switches in it
 
Yes i have done this, just use a set of cranked spanners and a small 1/4 ratchet. Get a ratchet strap and pull the exhaust to the side and you can just about get at it. About an hours work in total.
 
Thank you for your comments. After observations for a long time, I see only D and red lights of shift on D are flashing as well. My MOT failed for fog light last month, when I fixed it, I found all fog and reverse lights were 1/2 or 1/3 bright than normal at same time, I saw it one time by accident. I thought reverse and fog wires could be chafed. After checking D2 electrical diagram, I removed rear fog lights for test, but the flashing still happened. Besides I didn't see WXYZ change on nanocom by wiggling gearbox loom, and moving shift between PRND doesn't reproduce the flashing, Does no fault code means xyz switch is okay? Given above facts, which direction should I move to?
 
Hi, I am in the middle of removing my xyz switch, I found the selector shaft is a bit rusty, I wonder if removing shaft nut (anti-clock) by much force would damage the shaft or inside gear box. I have oiled it using penetrating oil. BTW, in order to have access to one of two switch nuts, do I have to remove the C clip or bracket secured by two nuts. How to remove the C clip? Thank you for any helpful tips.
 
I had a similar issue a few months back, The connections on the battery required some work with the good old vice grip formers for better contact, also the spade connector for the starter motor was very corroded so after replacing that along with the battery for the sake of it, a check and clean of grounding connections etc it has not done it since and when running I get a decent 14.4v -14.7 v when idling showing the alternator is doing what its supposed to
 
I tried to turn key to ignition 2, then shift to R, they were flashing sometimes, but never happened on starting engine. More often happened a while after driving, then stopped, shifted to R or D. When it happened, only D red lights and led were flashing apart of green flashing. No red lights and led on 321. In this case, it is not like battery issue.
 
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