D2 td5 new electric gremlings (brakes, gearbox, M+S)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

suprlite

Member
Posts
22
Location
Norway
So: yesterday morning i started my D2. Once i pushed the brake, engine died. Started her up again (she can be started in any gear so i guess that means the shift interlock solenoid is removed) -and started driving to work, using only handbrake. Almost every light on the panel lights up, m+s is blinking. Fuses 1,2,4 and 5 blown if i remember correctly. Also, as i said: nearly everly light on the dash is lit, and i hear lot of clicking in relays, but as soon as i press the brake pedal - all those lights disappear - only to return when i release the pedal. Whats more: the brake lights dont come on when pedal is pressed. Battery and alternator is fairly new (2yrs) and battery is fully charged. Nanocom will not connect. This happened over night.
From what i`ve read here, the brake switch is probably toast; but should that affect the transmission as well? -She has all kinds of electric seizures when i move the shifter as well.
 
There's a thread here about fueling and brake switch have a search for stalling D2.

From your comments its an auto?

Sounds rather electrical to me and I dont know the Disco enough to help. But the brake light switch not working the rear lights would suggest that needs sorting.

J
 
Fuses 1,2,4 and 5 blown if i remember correctly. Also, as i said: nearly everly light on the dash is lit, and i hear lot of clicking in relays, but as soon as i press the brake pedal - all those lights disappear - only to return when i release the pedal.
If those fuses are in the interior fusebox seems very like a short circuit within it, quite common for them to suffer from water ingress/corrosion and not always visible, IMO chasing other issues untill that fusebox is not ruled out would be completely inneficient... the brake switch would not cause such complex symptoms other the lack of brake lights and eventually reduced engine power nothing else
 
If those fuses are in the interior fusebox seems very like a short circuit within it, quite common for them to suffer from water ingress/corrosion and not always visible, IMO chasing other issues untill that fusebox is not ruled out would be completely inneficient... the brake switch would not cause such complex symptoms other the lack of brake lights and eventually reduced engine power nothing else
Its the fuses under the bonnet. I just found it strange that it seems to cut the power to a lot of things once i press the brake pedal. Can the fuse boxes be opened and fixed, or do i need new ones? I dont have much (if any) water leakage under the dashboard, as i dont have sunroofs. But worth mentioning: the wire-bundle that is on top of the frame, caught fire whilst welding the frame near rear left shock absorber last summer. I cut and spliced the worst affected wires and encapsuled them all in sikaflex. Have had no problems with rear lights or anything else in the rear, but i am thinking that might be a culprit(?)
-XYZ switch has never given me any problems either. And of course this had to happen during winter :confused:
-I am thinking: perhaps wire loom beeing rubbed to pieces somewhere, so that the brake light voltage is beeing spread into wires it shouldnt go.. Will try to remove brake switch tomorrow to see if anything improves..
 
Last edited:
the wire-bundle that is on top of the frame, caught fire whilst welding the frame near rear left shock absorber last summer.
Then double check in that area,
-I am thinking: perhaps wire loom beeing rubbed to pieces somewhere, so that the brake light voltage is beeing spread into wires it shouldnt go.. Will try to remove brake switch tomorrow to see if anything improves..
You are thinking well just be aware that the brake switch itself has nothing to do with your problem as i already mentioned, if the problem appears when you push the brake means that the switch works but a short circuit occurs somewhere it the loom or fusebox when it sends voltage to the lamps
 
Update: have fiddled a bit more, and found; with ignition in pos 2; full lightshow on dash in all gears except reverse, which causes the same thing as pressing the brake pedal: the dash blacks out. XYZ seems to be working as each gear shows correctly on dash.
Oddly enough; even the centre difflock light comes on (my D2 is not equipped with centre difflock). Also i noted: there is a relay inside the cabin fusebox compartment that is just hanging from a cluster of wires; what's this for? (will add pictures).
 
Update: ok, so now i have inspected gearbox-loom for damage and sprayed its contacts. Unplugged the trailer hitch contact inside right rear light. No dice.
No lights in dash and engine will not turn.
BUT: there is what seems to be 3 relays hanging in a cluster in the indoor fuse-box area. When i wiggle it, dashlights comes on intermittently. Does anyone know what these relays are?
 

Attachments

  • 20240120_162916.jpg
    20240120_162916.jpg
    262.1 KB · Views: 101
So: what is this relay-cluster? Some of the wires seems to go to the light-handle. As i mentioned; i wiggled it about and got dash-lights for a little while, but cant seem to replicate it again.. Cant find any broken or rubbed wires. When i cycle the key from pos 0 to 1,2 and start nothing happens.
 

Attachments

  • 20240120_202444.jpg
    20240120_202444.jpg
    219.8 KB · Views: 94
  • 20240120_202457.jpg
    20240120_202457.jpg
    296.4 KB · Views: 85
IMO there was some electrical issue with the fusebox which is common and the PO botched it somehow instead of properly fixing it... only the man who did that improvisation ca tell you what it is and why. You must be very skilled with electrics to figure out what was done then restore the circuit to original and fix it... in this case i can't help much
 
Update: so i whipped out my spanners again today and investigated some more. All contacts on bcu cleaned. All relays and fuses tested. Took both fuseboxes out of the car and took them inside for inspection and cleaning. Pulled both of them apart. Indoor fusebox looked just fine, not a speck of corrosion or moist in sight. Bonnet fusebox had a single corroded contact, to the point of dubious contact. Might have to solder a splice. Can someone identify what that contact is, and if it might be related to my problems? Edit: seems it's on connector C0605.
 

Attachments

  • 20240127_194239.jpg
    20240127_194239.jpg
    192.4 KB · Views: 86
  • 20240127_194225.jpg
    20240127_194225.jpg
    311.5 KB · Views: 86
  • 20240127_193244.jpg
    20240127_193244.jpg
    329.6 KB · Views: 89
  • 20240127_194213.jpg
    20240127_194213.jpg
    371.3 KB · Views: 83
Last edited:
New update: when measuring the contacts in the fuse-box for continuity i discovered that C0575-1 was heavily corroded. I cut the wire and put on a splice which i fastened on one of the screw-in fusible links. Now the car does not have a seizure when i turn the ignition. However: the fuel-pump will not spin (unless i put a jumper where the fuel relay is, then it spins). Have checked inertia switch. The car will crank, but no fuel-pump. Also: i have blinking M+S. Display will show P and N, but if i put it in D, 3, 2 or 1 it will just show a blinking D. Any ideas, anyone?
 
She started up today, and M+S disappeared 😃 the problem was that the rail in the enginebay fuse-box that powers fuse 1 and 2 only provided 1,78V. I made a jumper-cable straight from the battery to fuse 1 and she started right up. Now i just gotta figure out why the low voltage.
 
Back
Top