looking for waterproof multi plugs

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I would agree its as good but wouldn't say better, not in the automotive world, there are other factors that come into play the main one being space. Also a correctly soldered wire will have a larger surface contact area and a well soldered joint will have more strength in it than a crimpped connector. When it comes to larger cables the extra compression forces used do make a stronger connection (starter cables, winches e.t.c.) and yes I would go crimps over solder but for a loom I would choose solder every time.....

Explain why most military / harsh environment connectors are crimped?
 
Explain why most military / harsh environment connectors are crimped?

Just because the military do something doesn't mean it's the best, also it's just my opinion, I personally would choose a soldered and heat shrunk joint over a crimp unless you specifically want a connector such as a bullet or spade or if its in an area where a crimped joint would be better. I'm not saying crimps are bad, I use plenty of them, but as we're talking about building a loom then it's solder all the way for me...
 
i used ecm.co.uk or . com cant remember lots of goodies at a reasonable price got everything to make the loom for 67 quid delivered not bad for 85 items!
 
A bulb should always have the correct fitting plug for it, that plug should be soldered into the loom. Crimps are OK, I use them a lot but for a pro job it should be done with solder, if you need to have a connection point a suitable connector should be used. Crimps are good for small wiring jobs but for a complete loom I would be soldering every point. If you learn to solder you can connect wires just as quick as crimping...

And scotch locks, clip-n-locks, whatever people want to call them, they are bad for many reason, the main reason being they encourage people to piggyback off other wiring and usually end up with an overloaded wire which will overheat, melt its casing and short out. They also have a habit of stripping the connected wire if it gets pulled tight for any reason, this again leaves exposed wiring floating around. You also have to think of the size of the clips, the durability and the fact the metal parts are exposed and will corrode alot quicker than a fully wrapped connection. They are generally the sign of a uncompatent person fiddling with electrics (not saying it personally againt you for using them, its just a fact of the trade) and the scourge of any auto sparky...

as someone who has spent the last 20 years soldering up projects, etc. and having a degree in electronic engineering i'm going to generally disagree with your last statement :) (But won't be taking offence!)

Do you know what clip-n-lok connectors are? All my clip-n-lok connectors have the wires soldered to the pins, i can't understand how using these would encourage people to piggy back off them? I completely agree scotch lock things are the spawn of satin and should never be used, but, clip-n-lok connectors and alike seem a very sensible way to do connectors where you may want to un-do them in the future and where they are waterproof (I mainly used them behind the dash so it means i can very quickly and easily remove my dash.)

For things like the indicators and side lights where they just come with tails and are very simple to switch out when they get broken (it happens when off-roading) crimps make it very easy. I tend to wrap them in Tesa tape to help protect the crimps but allow them to breath - i would use heat shrink, but, it doesn't breath
 
as someone who has spent the last 20 years soldering up projects, etc. and having a degree in electronic engineering i'm going to generally disagree with your last statement :) (But won't be taking offence!)

Do you know what clip-n-lok connectors are? All my clip-n-lok connectors have the wires soldered to the pins, i can't understand how using these would encourage people to piggy back off them? I completely agree scotch lock things are the spawn of satin and should never be used, but, clip-n-lok connectors and alike seem a very sensible way to do connectors where you may want to un-do them in the future and where they are waterproof (I mainly used them behind the dash so it means i can very quickly and easily remove my dash.)

For things like the indicators and side lights where they just come with tails and are very simple to switch out when they get broken (it happens when off-roading) crimps make it very easy. I tend to wrap them in Tesa tape to help protect the crimps but allow them to breath - i would use heat shrink, but, it doesn't breath

Yeah I got that wrong, was thinking clip-n-locs were another name for scotch locks hence the piggy back comment and not the plastic plugs they actually are, my bad...

As for the crimps, totally agree that the are fine for most bits but for the OP's question of building looms I would still rather connect via a soldered joint. Where connectors are needed then crimped connections are perfect, I was talking more bare wire to bare wire permanant joints. Most aftermarket automotive plugs (if not all) are crimped, they are more than good enough, I was referring to the red/blue/yellow crimps that are used for joining wires, whilst they are fine they can end up taking up a lot of room and when running looms space can be tight...
 
Yeah I got that wrong, was thinking clip-n-locs were another name for scotch locks hence the piggy back comment and not the plastic plugs they actually are, my bad...

As for the crimps, totally agree that the are fine for most bits but for the OP's question of building looms I would still rather connect via a soldered joint. Where connectors are needed then crimped connections are perfect, I was talking more bare wire to bare wire permanant joints. Most aftermarket automotive plugs (if not all) are crimped, they are more than good enough, I was referring to the red/blue/yellow crimps that are used for joining wires, whilst they are fine they can end up taking up a lot of room and when running looms space can be tight...

Ah fair enough... yeh, the joining crimps are more of a temporary repair (which normally ends up semi permanent) - but you're right, for the OP's question, for in-loom connections soldering is best.
 
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