looking for waterproof multi plugs

im going to make a new lighting harness for my series and i would like some good quality waterproof multiplugs to try and stop future mud and water ingress related mot failures!, so if anyone has used such a part and could recommend any i would be grateful, ive seen the ones on ebay but was not certain of the quality
thanks in advance

Ask Mad Hat Man, he's the wiring/connector expert.

will do thanks

Amp/tyco are the main manufacturer, but ain't cheap.


How many ways?
Cable or bulkhead mounting?
Splash proof or immersion proof (the later are VERY expensive)?

ill need 3 pin that are suitable for 12v 55w, 2 pin that are suitable for 120w 12v and 5 pin fit for 50w,
as for where they will be mounted it will depend how long the cables are on the new lights i have ordered,ideally i would like to get the union away from the wheel arch but this may not be an option, ive even toyed with the idea of using ip65? juntion boxes on the front loom but thought waterploof plugs would be tidyer

I'd suggest using these for fully waterproof:



Available from many places, including:

VWP - multiconnectors

yeah id seen them on the bay but wasnt sure if they were going to be ****e or not, have you used them??

leg oot the bed said:

ill need 3 pin that are suitable for 12v 55w, 2 pin that are suitable for 120w 12v and 5 pin fit for 50w,
as for where they will be mounted it will depend how long the cables are on the new lights i have ordered,ideally i would like to get the union away from the wheel arch but this may not be an option, ive even toyed with the idea of using ip65? juntion boxes on the front loom but thought waterploof plugs would be tidyer

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If it's for lights why are you fitting plugs and sockets?
Solder joint the cables and cover the joints with heatshrink.
Or open up your lights and run a new, full length cables.

Or am I missing something here?

dogsbody said:

If it's for lights why are you fitting plugs and sockets?
Solder joint the cables and cover the joints with heatshrink.
Or open up your lights and run a new, full length cables.

Or am I missing something here?

Click to expand...

the plan is is to replace the whole loom as the current one looks like its original and im losing a constant battle with bad earths and poor connections ect ect, so the overall plan is to replace the bulkhead, replace the eletrics, paint it, underseal it and it should see a few years more of breaking down and ****ing me off

leg oot the bed said:

the plan is is to replace the whole loom as the current one looks like its original and im losing a constant battle with bad earths and poor connections ect ect, so the overall plan is to replace the bulkhead, replace the eletrics, paint it, underseal it and it should see a few years more of breaking down and ****ing me off

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Well adding more joints = plugs and sockets is hardly the way to future proof. All you are doing is adding more points that could fail, corrode or just cause you to wonder whenever you have a fault.

leg oot the bed said:

yeah id seen them on the bay but wasnt sure if they were going to be ****e or not, have you used them??

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No... I use crimp connectors where they will get wet and "clip-n-lock" type connectors in the dash - then use Tesa tape
(Tesa Adhesive Cloth Tape for cable harness wiring looms | eBay) as it's a breathable tape - moisture works its way into anything, might as well let it back out as well!

trying to avoid crimps and scotch locks as they are hardly a step forward from where i am at the moment

dogsbody said:

Well adding more joints = plugs and sockets is hardly the way to future proof. All you are doing is adding more points that could fail, corrode or just cause you to wonder whenever you have a fault.

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there has to be joints somewhere and this is why i wanted good quality plugs, soldering and heatshrink might be the way forward on the front the rear joints are indoors anyway

If you want a long lasting loom then fit a minimal amount of plugs, solder and heatshrink everything you can. Do not use crimps as they are not waterproof and a small amount of corrosion will end up breaking the connection. Anyone who suggests scotch locks needs to have all vehicle maintanance rights removed, they are evil, dangerous little things!!

As for the original question, check the Durites catalogue (its online), if you cant find a supplier give me a PM as I can get ahold of durite stuff. Its good quality stuff, usually more expensive than the cheap eBay crap but its better stuff!

Jongould said:

If you want a long lasting loom then fit a minimal amount of plugs, solder and heatshrink everything you can. Do not use crimps as they are not waterproof and a small amount of corrosion will end up breaking the connection. Anyone who suggests scotch locks needs to have all vehicle maintanance rights removed, they are evil, dangerous little things!!

As for the original question, check the Durites catalogue (its online), if you cant find a supplier give me a PM as I can get ahold of durite stuff. Its good quality stuff, usually more expensive than the cheap eBay crap but its better stuff!

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i can assure you that if im going to spend my money and time completely rewiring my s3 to cure various intermittent faults scotch locks wont be on the shopping list there worse than useless i even doubt that crimps will be used as they generally fail in the best of situation never mind gettin caked in mud

leg oot the bed said:

i can assure you that if im going to spend my money and time completely rewiring my s3 to cure various intermittent faults scotch locks wont be on the shopping list there worse than useless i even doubt that crimps will be used as they generally fail in the best of situation never mind gettin caked in mud

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i re-wired my series using crimps and "Clip-n-loks" a few years ago now and the only problem i've had since then is the axle falling to bits... which i don't think was related to the use of crimps... though i may be wrong?

I agree you want minimal amount possible, but, it's easier to connect to a bulb directly with a crimp connector so it can be removed and replaced if it fails than a solid wire which either means ripping your loom to bits or cutting and re-soldering wires

Bump said:

i re-wired my series using crimps and "Clip-n-loks" a few years ago now and the only problem i've had since then is the axle falling to bits... which i don't think was related to the use of crimps... though i may be wrong?

I agree you want minimal amount possible, but, it's easier to connect to a bulb directly with a crimp connector so it can be removed and replaced if it fails than a solid wire which either means ripping your loom to bits or cutting and re-soldering wires

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A bulb should always have the correct fitting plug for it, that plug should be soldered into the loom. Crimps are OK, I use them a lot but for a pro job it should be done with solder, if you need to have a connection point a suitable connector should be used. Crimps are good for small wiring jobs but for a complete loom I would be soldering every point. If you learn to solder you can connect wires just as quick as crimping...

And scotch locks, clip-n-locks, whatever people want to call them, they are bad for many reason, the main reason being they encourage people to piggyback off other wiring and usually end up with an overloaded wire which will overheat, melt its casing and short out. They also have a habit of stripping the connected wire if it gets pulled tight for any reason, this again leaves exposed wiring floating around. You also have to think of the size of the clips, the durability and the fact the metal parts are exposed and will corrode alot quicker than a fully wrapped connection. They are generally the sign of a uncompatent person fiddling with electrics (not saying it personally againt you for using them, its just a fact of the trade) and the scourge of any auto sparky...

crimping IF DONE CORRECTLY is as good, if not better than soldering, as the joint does not have a stress point at the wire/contact interface. The termination method depends primarily on environment. IDT contacts in an evironment subject to vibration is not good and have to be the correct size for the gauge of wire being used. Unfortunately when Landies are wired using solid conductor mains cable, that defeats the object .

The Mad Hat Man said:

crimping IF DONE CORRECTLY is as good, if not better than soldering, as the joint does not have a stress point at the wire/contact interface. The termination method depends primarily on environment. IDT contacts in an evironment subject to vibration is not good and have to be the correct size for the gauge of wire being used. Unfortunately when Landies are wired using solid conductor mains cable, that defeats the object .

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I would agree its as good but wouldn't say better, not in the automotive world, there are other factors that come into play the main one being space. Also a correctly soldered wire will have a larger surface contact area and a well soldered joint will have more strength in it than a crimpped connector. When it comes to larger cables the extra compression forces used do make a stronger connection (starter cables, winches e.t.c.) and yes I would go crimps over solder but for a loom I would choose solder every time....

Totally agree about the use of mains cables, bugs the crap outa me when I see bodged repairs using 240V wiring!! Its not hard to work out the correct cabling, even for an amateur..

a lot of usefull tips cheers gents, im still of the opinion that scotch locks are **** and crimps are worth avoiding although i agree they have their place,online shopping for cables and plugs and a new fusebox begins this evening, wish me luck!