Lift Pump Problem

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What is the hand primer actually for? is it important to have it??
If Id known both answers I got to this question before I started I would have left he old pump on, Never Mind least its got a shiny new one now.. If It works that is.
Anyway here is photo of block, now from what ive read on other posts and forums my engine really does not need spacer.???
 
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it shouldnt unless new pumps have even longer levers a you can see the plate has a boss cast into it pump bolts to, originally the earlier engines had a flat plate and short lever pump ,so when later plate and pump were in common use ie tdis,spacer was required to fit that pump to the earlier engines
 
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jamesmartin said:
it shouldnt unless new pumps have even longer levers a you can see the plate has a boss cast into it pump bolts to, originally the earlier engines had a flat plate and short lever pump ,so when later plate and pump were in common use ie tdis,spacer was required to fit that pump to the earlier engines
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I did get a chance o compare both pumps tonight and hey are both identical in shape and size. both arms the same length.
 
So arm is obviously not be reaching the cam with spacer, hopefully taking spacer back out will solve the starting problem.
 
Well here we go again, Please don laugh but Ive gone and made another cockup. tried to do it in my dinner break should have took my time. Getting really sick now cant seem to do anything right:(
Right, undid outlet and turned over, no fuel pumping out, took spacer back off and replaced without did same with outlet off and hey presto pumping fuel up.
Put everything back together started up and fuel ****ing out top of bleed screw, had a good look and the filter housing threads were goosed, local breakers just down the road so got second hand housing put it on reconnected all pipes, started up and running perfect, no leaks anywhere. Thanks to everyone for help and advice, could not have done it without yous.
Now for the Cockup,:mad: the 2 bolts I ordered that bolt lift pump to block were still longer then the originals, got one so far in then stared screwing the right hand one in, but it started to strip the threads inside the block, took them both out, and put the original ones back in, left hand went right up tight, right hand where it started to strip did finally go all the way but I'm sure it is just spinning, i.e. stripped inside. did not want to turn it anymore incase I popped out.
Now the pump seems to be on very tight, cant move It by hand seems solid, question is if the right hand nut is just spinning will the one tight nut be good enough to hold it without it moving about or leaking???. I have been out and about in it tonight and checked every time I stopped and no signs of any oil seeping out, like I say when I try movement by hand it is very solid and tight.??
 
Marmaduke said:
Leave well alone and run it as it is, keep an eye if any oil leaks out and put it down to experience. It's a job for a rainy day when you've finished all your other jobs :D
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Had the truck nearly 2 years and still doing jobs,:) Next job is either tappets or trackrod ends, Got a spare bar so put 2 brand new track rod ends on it ready for a straight swap will do the oher one on while on the truck. I know that you have to measure the threads on the old ones and pu back the same length.
Also got a second hand smaller steering wheel and boss to fit. So will probably break something while I'm on. but also no Ill get expert help and advice from you lot.:)
 
Just an update on this. Have not touched the bolt, but it does have a very small leak from bottom of the pump where it joins the block. Was told that some thread lock and some sealer spread round the edge where oil is coming should seal it up tight. What's the best / strongest sealer I could get??
Was also thinking about putting a piece of threaded bolt in with thread lock then when it's sealed tight putting a nut on the end.
 
Really you need to know if the thread is stripped in the block or if it's stripped the thread off the bolt. Personally I'd be inclined to remove the hp metal injector pipes to give yourself better access and then remove the lift pump and see what's damaged, at least with the pipework out of the way you'd be able to re tap the thread in the block if you have to
 
Marmaduke said:
Really you need to know if the thread is stripped in the block or if it's stripped the thread off the bolt. Personally I'd be inclined to remove the hp metal injector pipes to give yourself better access and then remove the lift pump and see what's damaged, at least with the pipework out of the way you'd be able to re tap the thread in the block if you have to
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I'm certain it's stripped in the block, like I say the leak is very small, I'm sure some kind of sealer will solve it coz knowing me if I take the pump off again am sure to break something else:)
 
In that case I'd give it a good clean using something like Halfords brake cleaner to remove any oil and dirt and then run a bead of silicone around it but I'd look at it as a short term bodge rather than a long term repair
 
Marmaduke said:
In that case I'd give it a good clean using something like Halfords brake cleaner to remove any oil and dirt and then run a bead of silicone around it but I'd look at it as a short term bodge rather than a long term repair
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What's the best silicone sealer? Something that will harden enough
 
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